Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Some of you may have seen my post in the Compliance/Importing section but for those who didn't, I'm Jase from Adelaide and I'm looking at getting a Stagea.

I currently have a VR4 Galant.. It's a good car but I want to be able to move my partner's and my mountain bikes.

The question I'm wondering is though - Do you think two mountain bikes would fit in the boot without too much hassle?

What is the "boot" like as far as strength? As in, this is a very bad explanation, but around the "bulge" for the struts, is the plastic very strong? or is it very thin?

Also, what is the carpet like? Is it soft or does it seem fairly strong?

Any photos of the boot area would be great too. :)

Thanks all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98514-how-much-space-out-back/
Share on other sites

I had a mountain bike in the back just a few weeks ago, when I went to pump up the tyres (brand new bike so therefore the wheels were very flat - man that seat hurts!!).

Fitted without a problem around my subwoofer and under the rear net-cage, with the back seats down. Two wouldnt be a prob, nor would 4 stacked on top of each other!

Carpet is nice and lush - might get knee /elbow rash though if you gave it a good work out *ahhemm*

Ok,

If anyone can top this effort, ill pay you 50 bucks.

Ive put in

- A single 2400x1200mm sheet of aluminium

I was driving with a sheet of aluminium sitting on top of my head. ALL seats down, mine as far forward as possible....AND a passenger behind me, tucked down underneath the aluminium.

Sorry about the size, but the only way you can see him. Lucky enough, i could see out my mirrors so driving wasnt that bad :D

alu0td.jpg

Didnt forget about the roof racks, but do you know how much lift a sheet 1200x2400 would get at highish speeds?

Also i dont have cross bars, where if i did, i would have slapped it on the roof. I also dont have anything to secure it up there...

This is how i go to the post office two times a week in the stagea. A lessson in how much it can REALLY hold :P

back14vn.jpg

back26sm.jpg

...i am on a first name basis with everyone, go through the back door which has a loading bay, get parcels sent on personal credit... yes... they love me :D

AND i get a free packet of lollies everytime i spend over $300 :)

This is how i go to the post office two times a week in the stagea. A lessson in how much it can REALLY hold :)

You REALLY need a cargo barrier behind the drivers st - many people get killed by things flying forward when they either have to brake sharply or bump into something (somebody in Aus was killed a few years ago by a bag of rice!) Remeber, whatever you have in the back is going to be doing up to 60kmh+ when it runs into the back of your head...

Ian

I KNEW you would comment Ian, was just waiting :)

Too bad they dont come with cargo barriers just behind the drivers seat do they? Thats where i need it because i .. well...quite fill 'er up. Or can they fit in that location somehow? I put everything the way it is at the moment so that nothing can fly forward.

AMS, yes, I get a free pack of $3 lollies when I spend over $300. Least they could do when I spend ~300-500 there a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...