Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25de Misfire


Recommended Posts

Hi, so I've been getting some violent misfires sometimes at low revs. Its like that for a couple of minutes at low revs then it runs fine. Pulled the fault code and it's error 21, P1320. Googled it and I read that the most likely cause is to do with coil packs. http://engine-codes.com/p1320_nissan.html


I don't think its the coils themselves because I had them replaced with JJRs just a few months ago when I had another error 21 and a misfiring engine. And its run perfectly since then up until a week ago. I didn't replace the spark plugs then, could it be those this time? The odometer reads 135000 and I don't know if the previous owner replaced the sparks at any time. I also read somewhere that sparks can go bad from being run with bad coil packs, and I was doing that for quite a while last time I got the error code.


Thanks

Edited by Wordsmith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over the last few days the misfires have stopped and the engine is running fine once again. The check engine light has also stopped turning on. Could the misfires have been caused by a bad batch of fuel or something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
So I had a huge misfire last night waiting at a red light immediately after exiting the motorway. The car was shaking like an old bus. The misfire continued until I put it in third gear at about 4000rpm, after which it stopped. There were no more misfires when I came to the next red light.


Last time I took the car in to service I was informed that the rocker cover gasket is leaking. It occured to me today after watching this video that leaking oil could be fouling the sparks, causing the misfires.




Has anybody ever had a misfire from oil leaking onto the sparks?

Edited by Wordsmith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
So I just got it back from the mechanics. Replaced the rocker cover gasket and got the sparks and coils cleaned. I didn't get to drive it far yet but so far so good, there was no misfiring at idle and I didn't lose power through the low-mid RPM ranges. The engine light is still on but I haven't yet connected the consult to get the code. I'm hoping the uncleared code is Error 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor since the speedo doesn't work. Hopefully the misfires stay away!


I was told that the PCV valve and hose need replacement. How difficult is it to replace it? I'm a total novice at anything mechanical but I would like to start learning, starting with replacing the PCV valve and hose.

Edited by Wordsmith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
    • Well, of course there's something wrong with the suspension. It was like that when it came out of the factory. Nissan wanted it to ride at least 50mm higher than most of us. They wanted it to be comfortable enough that the press and user reviews didn't complain about fillings being knocked out of teeth. The marketing people wanted to be able to talk about their fantastic new 4WS system (even if it was a pointless exercise, ha! pointless! Do you see what I did there? no? oh well. too bad). There weren't any semi-slicks or semi-semi-slicks or 18" wheels. Laser pointers didn't exist, so you couldn't easily build a bump steer gauge. There wasn't any better technology for suspension bushes than squishy shit in a condom. The list goes on.
    • I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.
×
×
  • Create New...