mikel

thanks GTSBoy

cheers guys I'm running an Apexi Power FC computer instead of factory and my 1997 R33 series 2 is pre OBD2. I'm thinking any service person will need an Apexi Power FC hand controller or an FC DataLogit to access any codes on my vehicle? Unfortunately, I don't have either an Apexi hand controller or Datalogit - and I'm guessing nor do most service people in Brisbane 🤥 My car has been previously tuned in Brisbane - I'm not sure I'd get them to tune/dyno the car again, but they can obviously connect to an Apexi Power FC... ...to read the air bag codes on my car, do I go back to the guys able to tune Apexi Power FC computers or is there a different option? cheers, Mike

Thanks GTSBoy - I was thinking it was getting to that Mike

Hi guys, I realise this has been covered lots but after trying a bunch of fixes my airbag light is still flashing Things I've tried: From Skyline owners: https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/airbag-warning-light.181475/ Key on door open Key off Key on Hit the door pin switch 10 times Another from Skyline owners: https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/air-bag-light-fixed.29792/ 1) Open the driver's side door. 2) Put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (but don't start the vehicle) 3) Within 7 seconds of turning the key to ON, push the driver's side door switch button at least 5 times. 4) The Air Bag light should go solid...give it at least 7 seconds, and it should begin to blink a 3 second, 2 second on/off pattern. 5) Turn ignition to OFF and remove key. 6) Start vehicle, and wait for the Air Bag light to turn off to verify that it worked. Note that I have not touched the factory steering wheel! and the flashing airbag light started without making any changes to the car. While trying the typical fixes above, I can get the airbag light to flash in the diagnostic sequence, but I don't know what the sequence means. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. cheers, Mike

car is full weight R33 GTST coupe timeslips attached I dropped pressure to 25 psi at the start before any runs, but didn't muck from there oh dear cheers Mike

so not suited to driving to the track and back other than maybe the first time of use from new?... was curious if there were OEM 15" rims people were using?

well I had fun, but my times were shite - my mate in his BMW M2 ran a 12.9 while I was still waiting in the lanes - I knew I couldn't touch that. My best time was 14.4 @ 104mph - a lot slower than the 13.94 I ran 12 years ago And 14.4 was my first run...later runs where I thought my start was better were slower. The only redeeming part of the night was beating a WRX STi I'd completely forgotten how much is going on when trying to get off the line fast in a manual and how different it is with a helmet on... ...and later runs where I didn't try for a good reaction time, but tried for a better launch and riding the clutch more to not bog down were slower - likely I was frying the tyres and the clutch at the same time ... Disappointed I couldn't get close to the time I ran 12 years ago - the car feels faster and the power comes on harder but I am running less rubber - 12 years ago I was running 265x35x18, now they're 245x45x18...I might have to try some drag radials. cheers Mike

apologies for pulling up an old thread, thinking about getting 2 second hand rims for the rear and putting some drag radials on my R33 GTST. They need to be legal for the drive to and from the track then swapped to other wheels/tyres for normal street duty. There seems to be way more sizes available (at least in the Mickey Thompson range) for 15" compared to 16". Will a 15" rim fit over the standard rear brake/calipers on a R33 GTST? The MT site shows a minimum rim width of 7", recommended 7.5", and max 9" for the 255/60R15. Is there an OEM rim I can look for 2nd hand that fits the R33 GTST in a 15x7 or 15x7.5? cheers Mike

nice...so get some runs up prior to running against any of "the guys in the crew" to begin to learn how to launch - and have fun. Great post - cheers Mike

Hi guys, Last time I took my R33 GTST to the drags was 12 years ago - back then I did 5 runs, snuck into 13s on the last run (13.94 @ 106MPH) and was happy with that and drove home. I'm heading out tomorrow to Willowbank with some mates for a bit of fun and looking for tips - including reducing the risk of breakages and being able to drive home ?. Mods - Power FC, FMIC, oil cooler, boost controller, HKS2530 turbo, NPC organic single plate clutch without many km on it + NPC lightened flywheel. Stock manual gearbox and diff, cheap street tyres (Achilles) with plenty of tread, 245x45x18. Dynoed at 234 RWKW on PULP 98 Fresh oil, brakes pads/rotors/fluid are in good nick I've read a bunch of posts in this forum that include advice such as: remove extra weight (in my case that would only be the spare wheel, jack etc have 1/2 tank fuel, not full lower the rear tyre pressure (I'll have a pump to re-inflate). My old 2530 turbo is a bit laggy, so I know that I'll have to slip the clutch to get the old girl off the line. The other guys I'm going with will likely be in high 12s/low 13s (chipped BMW M2 and C43 Merc - both autos), so there'll be a temptation to push things a bit - and I'm seeking guidance on getting reasonable ETs while minimising the risk of breakages (and I accept there's always a risk I'll break something) I have questions such as: what sort of revs do you try to leave the start line at? is there any point in doing a burn out on street tyres? I would assume some benefit is gained from a warm tyre compared to cold? depending on the number of people running - especially at the start of the session - there may be opportunities to do back to back runs with minimal time between - if oil and water temps are fine, do I just line up again, or should I give the clutch some time to cool down? The car doesn't get driven much - I've got 1/2 tank of P98 but it's 2 months old - should I throw in a bottle of octane booster? any other tips on getting good ETs in a manual Skyline with minor mods? It will be a fun night - beating the BMW or the Merc is unlikely, but if I cut a better reaction time and get a good launch I may beat them over the line even with a slower ET....that's the stretch target... Getting an ET around 13.5s (or better) and driving home after is the primary target ? cheers Mike

Thanks for the video link, I didn’t know about that dedicated drift track in Archerfield (Brisbane) Will have to go spectate one day. Serious skills to do that stuff. Makes me keen for another skid pan day. Cheers Mike

thanks GTSBoy - that lines up with my "updated" view of how the sandwich plate works and the temperature of the lines to/from the cooler... My original understanding was incorrect. Just waiting for my 1/8 NPT tap to arrive to get the sensor installed. cheers Mike

ongoing noob questions... ...in this photo it looks like the oil from the engine goes out the right hand side port - is this correct? cheers, mike

good call! Maybe I mis-read the diagrams, or I don't have a Greddy sandwich plate, but during the track session today, checking the temperature on the outside of the braided lines going to/from the cooler showed a 8-10 degree difference - but the line I thought was coming from the engine was the cooler line. I checked it numerous times just to be sure - a consistent 8-10 degree difference. I'll put the temp sensor into the hot side - but I'll go back through all the diagrams to see how I got it wrong...based on the temperature readings the blank plug is on the correct side to tap for the new sensor (1/8 NPT tap on it's way via eBay). cheers Mike

the weather wasn't great - wet track which refused to dry out between showers. A mate predicted a ute would go off within 10 minutes of starting - it took 8. Still fun, but so slippery, and a heavy shower in the middle of the session meant the track remained wet the whole session. The weather was fine when I got there, but the track was damp, so I decided to put the money of a day license ($20) towards a year license ($65) - helps motivate me to do some more track time, and the license works at Lakeside also. cheers Mike