32_love

What an absolute legend. I'll DM you.

Thanks for clarifying GTSBoy! Whatever I get will definitely be measured as I'll be taking the rods and crank in together for balancing. For anyone else that see's this and has a spare RB25 rod or set, hit me up please.

My apologies if this is a stupid question. I need to replace a single conrod on an R33 RB25 series 2 (bearing failure). Without going the forged route, what would be my best option? (I'm finding it difficult to find a set or single series 2 rod) - RB26 rods - Does it matter if they are from 32/33/34? And do I still use my existing pistons? - RB25 rods - Will neo rods work in a series 2? These will be going on a standard 25 crank. Thanks

Hi guys, As mentioned above, I'm chasing an RB25DET crankshaft that isn't damaged. Went to get mine balanced up for a build only to find it was too damaged to be feasible. I am also chasing a single connector rod and harmonic balancer if you happen to have either of these. I'm located in Marsden, 4132 but happy to drive around for the right item/price. Thanks

Updating the list as I've now got a few of the items I needed including the cam gear. Below is what I still need: timing covers (lower) starter motor Harmonic Balancer Dipstick Tube (or advice on any other tube that would be suitable) Heater/Coolant hoses

I'm in the process of rebuilding a S2 RB25DET which is missing a bunch of parts and one of the key bits I'm missing is the VCT Intake Cam Gear (non-neo). I am also chasing the following: timing covers (front upper/lower and rear) starter motor Flywheel Harmonic Balancer CAS Pink Label AFM Dipstick Tube (or advice on any other tube that would be suitable) Water Neck/Outlet Heater/Coolant hoses I'm located in Brisbane, willing to travel up and down the coast or pay shipping for the right product If you've got an ad up that I might've missed send me a link please. Thanks, 32_love

Thanks Robbo, that's some very helpful advice!

Hi all, I hope it's OK to ask these questions in here, I've tried searching and can't seem to find answers to my specific questions. A friend and I recently picked up and RB25DET series 2 and gearbox that we plan on re-building to replace my RB20 running gear but to start off with, the engine did not come with the cam gears and I'd like to know what is my best option in order to replace these? I'd like to keep the VCT functionality so should I just be chasing a stock intake cam gear (as my understanding is aftermarket cam gears will make me lose VCT)? And if so, are these interchangeable with rb25 neo cam gears? Secondly (and I know this has been detailed before but am chasing confirmation), am I better off keeping my RB20 ECU and wiring and getting it nistuned & making the requisite changes to wiring for AFM/VCT etc? Or should I just use the R33 ecu and loom I got with the engine? Finally, should I just keep my RB20 AFM or is it with worth changing up to a pink label rb25 afm? If you think I've missed something here, please let me know. Thanks, 32_love

Just to finish off this post. As per usual, GTSBoy was correct. The stud was welded to the bracket. I was able to remove the bracket as per HardSteppa's comment. The fix ended up being Craig from Threadtech coming out to have a look (3 days before xmas) and fixing it with a hex headed die and a wrench in all of 10 minutes. Really feel like an idiot after all this, but glad to have the car back down on the ground and secure.

Yep, that's my bad re: stud v bolt. Thanks for the clarification. If I have time tonight, I'll get this bracket out and see where I go from there.

Hey guys, I've stuffed up again. While doing, what should have been, a simple front swaybar installation I managed to round the thread for one of the D-bracket bolts. (see pic) I'm now trying to re-thread the bugger but it's in a very difficult spot. I was just wondering if anyone can confirm for me that it's ok to remove this whole bracket that the castor rods mount to so that I will have enough room to spin the die with a hand tool? or am I going at this the complete wrong way? Any help/tips would be appreciated. Note: I'm 99% certain that this bolt is an M10 x 1.25 but if you happen to know better please let me know. Thanks, Aaron

Good evening, I am hoping someone here who knows can direct me to the proper front and rear sway bar D bushes for an R32 with 24mm thick swaybars. SuperPro, Whiteline etc. I don't mind which brand as long as it will FIT. Or some brackets I can buy to replace my own that will suit these bushes. I recently ordered the Whiteline BNK013 kit (heavy duty, front (BNF28Z) and rear (BNR26XZ), 24mm thick swaybars) for my 32. In the package I received, the sway bars appear to be correct, but the D bushes I received for the front do not fit the brackets on my 32, the outside diameter is too large (See below). They have 5093-24 stamped on them and the bag they came in was labelled '3NF24 R33 Skyline'. For comparison, the below pic is the old bush in the bracket I haven't even got to the rears yet but the bag they came in are labelled '3NR26XZ Nissan Silvia'. I'm hoping that it's just interchangeable parts. Has anyone else come across this, or know part numbers/direct links to the right product? Thanks, Aaron

Bump, I'm still after one of these ?

As far as I am aware in QLD the steering wheel must be within 20mm or 30mm +/- the original wheels diameter, must have padding on the spokes, must be 'ADR' compliant, cannot have a flat bottom and as you have mentioned, if it previously had a airbag, then the new one must also. Source: Have been pulled over for an illegal steering wheel about 10 years ago and this is what I was told at the time

Thanks guys, and thanks for the diagram. I'll look into these relays you've mentioned while I replace the switch once I find one. Fortunately, I've gotten this far with my minimal knowledge but this might be a bit over my head but I'll give it a go.