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Wobbz

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Everything posted by Wobbz

  1. What sorta conditions are the turbos in? shaft play? how many kms on em roughly? Cheers mate. PS. where are you located? im in perth... so dont know how much shipping would be...
  2. Is this a GTS4 turned GTR? (via rb26 swap) ??? Whats the deal with the GTS seats inside and the GTS/t wing? Not having a stab, just interested to know...
  3. Another interesting thing to note, for R32 owners etc... the coil pack PLUGS (loom side), have a tendency to DESINTEGRATE... especially if they're 13-15 years old... I've seen this happen before, and today I changed my plugs (after having missing on 2 cylinders... sounded like a WRX ) to copper BCPR6ES-11's gapped to 0.7mm, and had TWO stuffed coilpack plugs. She runs a charm now. Even if the inside yellow/brown section of the coilpack plug desintegrates, DONT cut the plug off... you CAN NOT buy these new (as far as i know), and will have to source them off another wreck. They still work fine if the yellow/brown plastic comes out, just push the pins/resitors back in, and connect the plug carefully... no dramas!
  4. Thank you, for all your help! (both of you) Although I still have to wait till monday!
  5. My cracks are IDENTICAL to those! I have one on each side!
  6. Hey peoples, I have a GENUINE R32 GTR bumper that will be going on my GTS/t soon.. it however, has two cracks just near where the area under the front lights goes in to the grill area... if you get what i mean...see pic... the red lines! As these bumpers are made of plastic, what can I use to "hold" the cracks together ? Fibreglass the backside, then fill with resin, sand, and body filler for any minor imperfections ? Or maybe glue a SMALL piece of wood (eg. plywood) to hold the gap together, then fibreglass over the wood ... then sand, fill the front side with resin, then bog? Has anyone got a guide to bodywork like this? Cheers, Jel
  7. Hey peoples, I have TWO sets of GTR throttles... ie. two sets of the 6 throttles... These throttles are 45mm each, and are grouped in "pairs"... each pair having its own return spring... I'm after $150 PER SET of 6 throttles. Firm. Buyer pays for postage. These were initially going to be used on my VH45, but i have scrapped the project, so no longer need them (was going to go 8 throttle)... the total project has become too expensive. I will only sell them in full sets, unless say 3 different people want to buy 4 throttles each. My details (name, contact etc) will be provided to the buyers!
  8. Got pictures? Is it a solid center, or sprung? What is this clutch rated to? (HP wise, roughly) and how good is "good condition"... 70% meat left on the plates ? Cheers, Christian (quite interested)
  9. I believe it is only that "anti-surge" compressor cover ? (ie. the holes drilled into the compressor cover) ??? Can anyone confirm this? Oh, and the HKS label which adds 50kw
  10. Congrats simon, that's an awesome resujlt!!! I don't see 650-680rwhp being out the question with more boost (although i'd imagine 700 would be pushing it). Those are some very impressive times you've run at the strip... i'm surprised they didn't kick you out for running faster than a 10.99? As for the comment on running CDI with autronics to achieve over 500rwhp... well over 500rwhp is possible without it, its just a lot more fooling around (ie. getting very precise ign/fuel maps) to get the car running smoothly at the higher power levels, and whether or not you want to risk missfires at high rpm/power outputs... Also, sydney kid, thanks for the info on your experiences with CDI... alot of it makes sense when you think about it! Edit: Simon, how do you find the Nismo twin plate? Reasonably easy to drive? The reason I ask is for my own project... I'm looking into twin plates for it, and basically whatever comes up for the right price... most have been OS Giken's and Nismo's for the nissan boxes... Having said that, I possibly have an OS Giken sprung center twiin plate which I can buy, however, my brother said it did NOT seem "easy to drive" like most people say the OS's are... he even thought his solid center HKS triple was easier to drive. It looked fine visually. Are there just many versions of the OS giken twins, with some being really bastard? Sorry for the offtopic, just thought i'd ask someone who has had experience with skylines! Cheers, Christian
  11. Cheers, i wanted to know this too... How does the gearing seem? the same? ATM, i'd say my r32 GTS would top out at 220-230kmh (by looking at the tacho and speedo... haven't actually hit that speed yet, but theoretical... by putting it in 5th, revving to 4k and looking to speedo (being that redline is ~8000rpm... so just double)... is this the same as your's ?
  12. Hey champ! just read up on some of your post! car sounds nuts... can you get some video footage of it? I myself am doing a VH45 into my R32 GTS... only i'm staying NA.... going 8 throttle/trumpets etc... should be interesting to see the figures these engines can pull! Keep us updated with your car... 335rwhp at only 5psi is VERY VERY nice power... i can't imagine the torque it must be making... wheelspin heaven Goodluck, Christian
  13. call up xtreme clutch... they have MANY clutches to suit you... or try www.xtremeclutch.com.au I've heard they have some great 9 puck clutches (ceramic), which have very nice power handling and aren't much different to stock to drive on! But generally, the less the number of pucks, and the higher rated the pressure plate, the harder it will be to drive. Less pucks = pickup is ALOT more sudden, as you're applying all the clamping force over a much smaller area... aka. jerky! can't really ride them as much - not that you should ride your clutch... I personally wouldn't go for a 3 puck clutch... lowest is probably 5 puck i'd go, then i'd go to a twin plate or similar (for street use). The higher rated the pressure plate, the stronger the clamping force. While this sounds good, it will also be alot "heavier" on your leg... which again, affects driveability (makes it harder to "modulate" the clutch).
  14. Advancing the ign. will have the same effect, primarily on the internal combustion temperatures (a more direct effect than EGT). This is also why advancing your timing too much causes "pinging" (usually combined with lean AFR's). I'd be less worried about retarded timing than advanced timing... EGT's wouldn't jump by a huge amount (although they would increase, as more fuel would be burning in the exhaust side)... i'd mainly worry about oxygen sensors and cats, which would die quicker as a result of the increased temps. I'd imagine the increase in charge temperature (being that the turbo would get a bit hotter) would be pretty small if you had a decent intercooler! Just my 2 cents... I see where you are coming from though.
  15. You mean advanced ign. timing... Longer burn = more energy produced = more power = more heat !
  16. And then get some milo tins, cut, and weld on some extra metal so they're 8' wide... :lol:
  17. None will mount directly to the engine. We'll get a custom adapter plate machined up to suit whatever box we finally chose (thinking a rb25 or z32 box (same internals)... but still have to work out shifter locations).. As for aftermarket ecu, yes! I'm keen on running an autronic... they're (in my opinion) one of the best ECU's around, despite what some people say about wastespark (who usually don't have a ****ing clue). My brother has had great results despite others telling "no no, wastespark is bad... you need CDI if you want good power" etc.... yet his supra is making over 500rwhp with this so called shithouse wastespark using factory coils etc.
  18. My brother removed it for me today while he was doing the rest of the compliance work. He said there was no chance in hell my new amp would fit (and its not that big!)
  19. Great, should be easy to get to then! is the space for it large? I've just bought an Eclipse 4x70W RMS amp... whats the factory one rated at? I hope the new one will fit in the same spot...
  20. Where is the factory amp located?
  21. Speaking of which, me and my brother are in the process of putting a VH45 into my R32... with a manual box Good luck with getting 180rwkw out of an NA rb20... a 150 shot of the nozzle would get ya there
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