hayai32

UPDATE: Option one won't work due to lack of space... I would have to cut too much off the front bar.

Hey all... I bought a generic oil cooler kit a lil while ago and I cant decide where to mount it... I would just mount it upright behind the D/side of the f/bumper but the intercooler pipes are in the way a bit... My current ideas 1. Mounting it flush to the bottom of the front bumber support... sits just in front of the i/cooler pipe... i.e. drilling holes in the bubper support for the oil inlet outlet fittings. This would also require cutting the front bar (type m) where I used to have fog lamps... 2. Mounting it sideways (length ways) on an angle "/" behind the D/side of the f/bumper and making an aluminium shroud to direct air flow.... I know that there is room to mount it behind d/side cooler pipe on an angle from the chassis rail but i don't really want to mount it there... Any ideas, suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Cheers in advance

Yep I aggree with the other ppl who have said this... there is no hard and fast rule as to how much psi is safe. depends on age of turbo and driving conditions. I run my car on 14psi on the street and for more spirited driving I put it back to stock (arround the 12 mark) to make the exhaust wheel "less" likely to end up in the cat. It will die someday but it's been nearly 2 years now and they are cheap anyway so it isn't that big of a drama... I hope. I am not sure if you can set an r33 turbo to 10 psi... I know that with the r32 stock turbos the stock actutuator won't allow less than arround 11.5/12 ish psi. Dunno about the 33 turbos but I'm guessing they wouldn't be too different. I'm no expert though all I know is that with my ebc on my 32 I can't go below 11.5 psi. My 2c

Gold might look good but black will definately look good. My 2c

Hey all. I've got a few q's to with castor adjustment 1. What is the length of a standard castor rod for an r32? (Measure from the middle of where the bolt goes through the bush to the outermost point of the furtherest bolt hole. "If anyone has one laying around") I get approx 36cm or .........................................(14.2inch) 2. To get more POSITIVE camber by using adjustable castor rods you need to shorten them. i.e. adjust them to be shorter than the stock item. Is this correct? 3. What are good castor settings for an r32? I've been told that there is no such thing as too much positive castor... obviously within reason keeping in mind other constraints. Thanks in advance for any comments! Colin

castor rods: I am under the impression that r33/34 s14/15 "adjustable" castor rods are the same.

Hey all, I just bought some brand new aftermarket castor rods for my 32 and on the box it says c34/c35/r33/ r34. I specifically asked for the r32 variant and this was sent. Are r33/32 castor rods interchangable? I was under the impression that some of the suspension components are interchangeable. Just asking here to get an unbiassed opinion from people who don't stand to loose money from exchanging/refunding.

There was what looked like a RBT/defect station on rundle st. last night. Didn't appear to be very "random'' though. Pulled over anything that looked like a sports car and any p-plater.

I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me why RB20's need an "AP engineering" version of the power FC. I'd guess that it would have something to do with the RB20 having less conventional system software for the FC to interface with or something. Can someone in the know please shed some light on this?

What about buying an excell and spending your left over cash on a big subwoofer, getting the engine bay chromed and a couple of GTR badges... and some full sick chrome wheels... and a custom license plate... ...bad joke hey... 180sx/skyline both excellent cars... I think you'd be happy with either. Just get whatever comes up first at the right price. Also, I am unaware of any significant differences in "service" costs for skyline/180's and any other imports for that matter. I pay the same to get my car serviced as my old man pays for his old 4cyl pulsar.

Hadn't heard about this till reading this (bloody exams!)... What are the details start time spectator entry fee etc...?

If you are considering modding a 34,2dr ex, then why not consider a 33 or 32 stock exhaust. I'm certainly no expert but i'm guessing that the exhaust systems of the 33 and 34 would be fairly similar... worth considering anyway.

I haven't read the whole thread but but here's what i did to remedy my driveway... I went down to my local hardware store and picked up a bag of quick dry cement (around the $10-$20 mark) got the wheel barrow out mixed it then just layed it at the base of the upramp bit. now it doesn't scrape at all. Don't know how legal it is but i haven't had any complaints and drain flow is still all good. It looks fine too providing you lay it evenly.. my 2cents.

Problem solvered... The ball bearing thing is seated in the spring of the rotary hlight on the far right of the dash. You need to take of a tiny little clip and pull the selector to get at it though. I still can't see how to take appart the rotary headlight switch to "easily" get at the contacts to clean them but anyways... After ringing a few autoelectricians they seemed to think that the problem might be with the dipper switch (aka... the indicator stalk where you turn the high beam on and off and indicate etc...) So I took out the dipper switch which takes about 10 mins, took the protective cover off the dipper switch then gave all the contacts a good scrape with the tip of a vsmall screw driver and a spray with crc and now it works good as new. It seems strange but it does appear that the headlights are also interconnected with the indicator/dipper stalk... Oh well it fixed the problem... Colin

Problem solvered... The ball bearing thing is seated in the spring of the rotary hlight on the far right of the dash. You need to take of a tiny little clip and pull the selector to get at it though. I still can't see how to take appart the rotary headlight switch to "easily" get at the contacts to clean them but anyways... After ringing a few autoelectricians they seemed to think that the problem might be with the dipper switch (aka... the indicator stalk where you turn the high beam on and off and indicate etc...) So I took out the dipper switch which takes about 10 mins, took the protective cover off the dipper switch then gave all the contacts a good scrape with the tip of a vsmall screw driver and a spray with crc and now it works good as new. It seems strange but it does appear that the headlights are also interconnected with the indicator/dipper stalk... Oh well it fixed the problem... Colin

The left low beam light does not work on my 32. It is not intermitent, it just doesn't work. I have changed the bulb so it is not the bulb. I have pulled the switch from the dash and sprayed some contact cleaner in it but this hasn't changed anything... yet. I've read some other posts on here that say you can clean the connections with sand paper but i can't for the life of me get to the connections to do that. I took out the thing with the ball bearing and spring in it but I can't take it appart any further. Can it be taken appart any further? I've also read that it could be a fault in a relay... might be a dumb question but what is a relay? any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. I want to see if i can do it myself before i call an auto electrician...

Hey all, Just wondering what you all do for wheel security? I realise that lock nuts are really just a deterent but what are the hardest types to get off and where do you get them? Anyone know of any online stores selling them?

Hey all, Does anyone here know what clubs in SA run regular motorkhanas and where etc...? Do you need a helmet for motorkhanas?

I went over as an exchange student in 2002 and went to a couple of "jet teacher" get togethers and there were a fair few non caucasion jets there. The jet program doesn't appear to discriminate from my little experience... Although I was under the impression that to become a jet you needed to have finished a uni degree or something something like that. I'm sure someone here will be able to clarify... quoting daioni: now, life as a non-japanese asian in japan... there's a whole different thread... I definatly agree but it can also be reworded... life as a non-japanese in japan... there's a whole different thread...

I got pulled over for having a headlight out on my way home on saturday night and was defected for tyres and a headlight. . . Can't complain about the defect because it was a fair thing for them to defect me on and these two particular cops were far from unreasonable blokes. Anyways... I have never got a defect before and I'm wondering what is involved in clearing a cop shop defect. I'm aware that I have to rectify the defected items which is already in the works and pay a 20 odd dollar fee... but ... do they do a more thouough inspection? what experiences have you guys had with cop shop defects? would the inspecting cop be able to identify an ebc and other frowned apon items in the engine bay? (btw: stock plumback bypass valve in use) Any advice greatly appreciated Cheers, Col

I wouldn't mind taking a look if that's ok PM me with contact details/phone number please... Cheers.

PM sent...

might be interested but picture link doesn't work...

I'm just writing this thread because i don't really hear of any crazy engine projects on rb20's. I cant find any in all the magazines that i have. . . When i talk to most people about them the first thing that comes to mind is this "massive" tourque hole (that supposedly makes them no good for drift). I definately know what they are talking about but i fail to see how it matters that much. . . I have so much fun with the rb20. . . It LOVES the high revs. . . What makes rb25's and sr20's so much more desirable that nearly all of the attention is focussed on them? I have no detailed technical knowledge on this issue but i'm keen to get a better idea from those who do... cheers

I thought the same thing when i got mine (nearly three years ago now). I found a whole load of things that i thought "might" be wrong but after being in and driving a couple of other r32's that behaived the same, i was reassured that they were just normal. . . The torque hole below 3k is still around though (however it was reduced a tiny bit by getting rid of the 2 minute noodle s stock ic and getting a less restrictive fmic kit). . . I'm no mechanic but i'd say the only way to substantially reduce the hole would be to increase the displacement of the motor. . . But why bother rb20's are gun engines!!! rb20s love getting cained!!!