paul_psi

okay ill start with what I know I'm doing ill be running a custom sump fully baffled and wing gates, head return, with an external pick up point and modify the pump for external pickup now what I'm not sure is what pump and collar to use I heard of the new nitto pump with the splines haven't heard of anyone using it on a rb30crank and well that's basically my question what pumps have people used in the 400-500kw+ range on a 25/30 I just want to know what people have used and there advice don't want to know what people have 'heard' and before anyone says to do a search I have so many times it varies so much just want a bit more info before I buy something

that's the love of cars mate you need to research look up stuff on google go to the local mechanic shop ask questions. I'm a bricklayer by trade and now try to go everything on my cars even tort myself to aliminium weld to get stuff done. my advise try it yourself if you stuff up you will learn by your mistakes

and when you get the relay ask for a wiring harness for it makes it a lot easier it cost me about $50 all up including a new soldering iron. car are a love and hate relationship

this is what I did in my skyline scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30 pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery) pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect) pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

coilovers should be in on Friday the stock shocks will be going in the bin with the rest of the suspension got the car home today didnt get a chance to get it up on stands but pedders got the lower control arms out of the rear for me the amount of play in the threads even on the side that wasn't damaged is unbelievable

we took that off to try get the bolt back in to get it on the tow truck

thanks heaps ill text them to you as soon as I have them

that's what I though as well but it's like it just stripped the tip of the threads off its really weird. it defiantly wasn't cross threaded I check it all first. I'm getting the print out sent to me now do you mind putting it up for me again?

and the tread was about 2 turns out so basically nearly all the way in

yeah no worries ill get all that tonight after I get the car home. they are still stock shocks coilovers were ordered a couple weeks ago but haven't arived as yet it was only just set up at the moment so that I could get it dynoed then get the coilovers in and get the suspension setup again

I just quickly took a pic ill get more after work today I was more worried about getting the car somewhere safe

there is 2 threads there the one inside is the one that stripped the outer thread is still okay I can literally slip it on and off with it barley twisting

I now the guy that owns the local parts shop and they are expanding into a lot more hight performance stuf and after it happen yesterday I went straight there to have a look on there computer at rhdjapan i ordered it through them at there cost price they were putting a massive order in today anyway so I don't need to pay shipping either it was $3000 and I can't say what the cost price is not fair on the shop

that's true

I can get the ikeya a bit cheaper (still expensive!) so I'm going with them never again using anything like drift works Jjr or anything like that

what does everyone think of the ikeya stuff

I sent the guy I got them off a pm to find out the info on them

sent as many as I got mostly before

can I put pics up with iPhone? it was the lower control arms thread that connects to the ball joint bit that literally ripped out that caused all of the problems I don't think power played much part as I didn't even get to full boost and it happen when I was slowing down at about 20kph now there is another drama the front lower control arms are hitting the disks now I'm pissed off brand new Dba 4000 in the bin

just wanted to let people know about the drama I had yesterday with my adjustable arms in my r33. I just got the car from pedders after they did the steering alignment I got about a 100m down the road when the threaded bolt on my rear lower control arms stripped straight out causing the traction control and toe arms to bend and buckle leaving the wheel hanging on by just the half shafts just proves to buy the top name brands I got the off a guy on this form so I don't know the brand ill put pics up if I can workout how to just wanted to let people know to be careful I have ordered ikeya everything hopefully else goes good

got it. Cas plug was half on I couldn't work out why it wasn't showing and rpm when cranking. now got to fix the gauge

wide open throttle?

and what's WOT? sorry for all the questions

and I started it with the 750's

microtech has a bass map already came with it for the r33 rb25 and started it and let it run for ages that's what's got me stuffed now why it won't kit over.