SeriesIIGTST

What car is the PFC + boost kit for?

Cereal Killer, I also considered the straight swap for RB26DETT as well but the trouble is, you really don't know what sort of condition the RB26 is in either. It too will eventually require a rebuild and then you're up for the price of the new engine plus the price of the rebuild!

LOW25T - yeah, mine has forged pistons in it....figured I may as well put them in from a safety point of view rather than a 300rwkw point of view.

Enrico - current setup is: HKS 2535 GT Sports Turbine Kit Trust FMIC Bosch 910 fuel pump Nismo adjustable FPR Blitz EBC Apexi S-AFCII So yeah, basically S-AFCII + Stock ECU

thanks for the replies. I thought it made sense that my knock sensor fault would cause timing to be removed. I've gotta get it up on ramps to check all connections now i guess. Everyone tells me PowerFC and ultimately i want (need) one but i'd rather pay $2K off my loan than on one at the moment if it can be helped.

you also won't need as much as 20psi to get a 2535 to crack 250rwkw. Mine does it on 1.1 bar ~ 16psi

Sorry mate, perhaps I should read the whole post first eh rather than looking at the picture! If I were to hazard a guess, i would say that it's for aircon, dash etc as you thought, that's the only thing this side of the firewall grommet that would require that many wires I would think.

surely with a plug that big, there's gotta be something sitting under the dash that it would connect to. it would have to be obvious i would have thought.

Brett, heard from dsturbd on Wednesday who has been on holidays for the last little while. He said he'd have prices up on Thursday but so you can see, haven't seen anything as yet. I sent him another PM yesterday. Trust me, i'm on to it as much as i can.

Hi all On my R33 GTS-T, I recently ran an ECU diagnostics and it came up code 34 or knock sensor. Could this possibly explain why I have some good drives and some not so good drives power wise? How much of a difference in ignition timing does the knock sensor play part to? Ie, if my knock sensor is faulting and sending unusally high levels of knock (which aren't actually happening) to the ECU, could my ECU be pulling lots of timing out and causing my car to run like a dog? It's very intermittant though, some drives, it'll have a great run with full power and all the usual acceleration, speed and lack of traction it should have, other times (exactly the same conditions), it will feel like it's loading up, boost will increase, but the car will be stagnant and not accelerate. Is this all the doing of a faulty knock sensor? Any light you could shed would be appreciated. In the meantime, i'm getting a new knock sensor anyway. Cheers! P.S. I know the car isn't pinging, it's been tuned well and is making good power but not consistently as stated above.

bumpage Anyone?

Does anyone know if you have to get a genuine RB25 knock sensor to replace a faulty one. I get code 34 come up when i do diagnostics and was quoted three fiddy for a new one from Nissan! Can i use an RB30 knock sensor? RB20? any others? Second hand may be dodgy so i'm sorta steering away from that. Cheers!

Damn Lauren :grouphug: So sorry to hear it. Glad you are okay and that the other person isn't too badly hurt. Man that sucks. Glad it doesn't sound too bad for your beast, i'm sure you'll be back in action in no time. Wishing you the best. Dave

Sweet turn out...great to see so many people with their nice rides Bring on the digi-cam pics. Somebody post them up! Troy? Well done Paul and SAUWA committee. Cheer Rick

So what's the final details Paul? 12pm - 4pm @ Motorplex? I've just spent 2.5-3 hours washing/polishing/waxing my beast and it looks all purdy now

yeah, it's a bit louder and a bit deeper but not noticably, well, until you put the boot into it (and boost!) and then she really wails. However, the noise of the pod and turbo spoolin is loud enough to drain out the noise from inside the cabin at least. My car is VERY quiet though compared to a lot of them.

I have PM'd dsturbd several times but looking at his profile, he's not been online since 9/5/04. I only know him through online chats so I can't really move this thing forward any more than its going. Gives everyone some time to save $$$ i guess. I'm still in need though...

Enrico - Yeah, i figured as much...bloody stock ECU. bbeny - I've just re-installed my stock AFM and haven't had a problem with boost cut yet so i'll see how I go when I put it back on the dyno snake - Glad I could help franks - stock injectors, but upgraded fuel pressure regulator but i'm unsure of the pressure. Clutch is an 9 puck jobbie with 2200lb pressure plate. Xtreme I think it is - same as what Adelaide Clutch Services produce.

rbs13: Yeah, the maximum of 339HP would equate to 250rwkw Denton33: Stock actuator that came with standard turbo bOneR: Yeah, response is very similar to stock, only a few rpm higher with good power early on. Unfortuately graph doesn't show RPM but it was at 216hp by 104km/h in 4th. $$ prohibit the PFC at the moment however, that will more than likely be the end case for my car - just a matter of when.

Yeah, well I bought the Z32 off another forum member who told me it's okay. Is there a way to check em?

Many people have asked what power i'm getting from my new HKS 2535 which I bought a few months ago so I thought I'd share the results. Best run = 339RWHP @ 1.12 bar Consistent = 312RWHP @ 1 bar Power seems about right for the turbo. However, it wouldn't be my car if it didn't have a problem and in this case, it's a great big dirty hole in my power band which seems my power drop from 280ish back to 200 then shoot back up to peak, all between 5500 and 7000 rpm. It's totally weird. If anyone has any insights as to how to allivate this hole, please, please tell me. At the moment, we are thinking it may have something to do with the Z32 AFM not talking with my S-AFCII correctly :confused: Stay tuned for hopefully better results to come. Cheers! Sorry, no dyno graph

oops, bloody computer see other thread on HKS 2535 results... MODS please delete. Sorry!

Driver: I posted a similar link in the WA whoretown thread a couple of days ago...maybe you came accross it there?

Rev, if i had the stock airbox, i'd probably go back to it and put on a K&N filter but I don't. Car came with a pod so that's my only option. I currently have on a WorksAuto pod which people tell me is decent enough...just wondering it is causing a restriction cause it was a cheapie...

So the consensus is that it's probably worthwhile anyway, regardless of whether there is a restriction further up the line. However, the restriction should also be addressed by fitting faster flowing filter. So that leads onto is there a proven brand of filter which flows well but still filters things smaller than a bird (unlike HKS)