The Dan

Never swapped one from a 240sx to a 33 but They should all be the same thread. My RX7 one fits my 32 and a 34 fits all other models. Pulsar fits skyline etc so 240sx should be no different.

I had to order some seals for a Cefiro a few weeks back. Nissan Australia are quite expensive, Nissan Japan are cheaper but you'll need to speak with the right people to get them.

When I order parts from Japan, I pay and the part arrives 6-7 days later...sometimes 4-5. It took 2.5 months to get a set of SARD injectors from Nengun and he bullshitted to me all the way. So now I buy from someone cheaper and faster. There is a possibility you are entering the tracking number wrong. I know some tracking sites are not updated often enough and there is a delay there also. If you want, give me the tracking number and I'll check it out for ya.

Truer words were never spoken. Most people work on 'lower centre of gravity = better handling' ....this is true in some cases but only to an extent. Once you go past a certain point, the geometry changes in a negative way.

Anyone care?

That's nice....Maybe you could tell us all what a Driftpiolt is

Ooh, someone, somewhere did a write up! Sounds like proof to me.

Bull f**ken shit. There is nothing at all appealing about Vic or NSW (cept SAUVIC and SAUNSW or course). They are merely crap holes you have to step over to get to anywhere decent....like the antarctic.

Yeah, those Brembos on Noel's car pull up like shit! Sounds like something I would like to see. But yes, both of you are right...I think the stock brakes on a Skyline are over engineered for the vehicle but that's what makes them so great. Obviously they have their limit. There is no arguement here....you simply CANNOT do everything with the factory setup. Plain rotors and factory sumitomo pads WILL fade after the first couple of laps. Having said that, though, there are things that can be done to the factory brake setup to improve them out of sight. Slotted rotors and a better friction material do wonders. I've had to talk Benno out of going a Brembo upgrade because it's just not required IMO. In most cases the factory calipers are doey and most of the rest of the system is old and worn out too. Take yourself back to when the vehicle was brand new. You would not believe the stopping power they have. Driver experience has much to do with it also. Slap a 17 year old kid fresh out of school into the drivers seat and watch the braking technique. An experienced driver knows how to brake later, harder and with less heat transfer so, therefore, can utilise the brakes for a longer period of time. Race brakes have their place....and on a street car is a bit of a wank seeing as though the factory calipers are well capable. But there is also nothing WRONG with putting race brakes on a street car. Your car WILL have more braking potential but wasted potential if put under the foot of an inexperienced driver.

Finally someone who uses the correct terminology. Hate it when people refer to them as 4 or 6 spot calipers. ....And yeah, they are the bomb

Can vouch for every mod done here. This is one of the cleanest cars I had the pleasure of working on. Nathan is not one of these idiots that will thrash his car beyond it's limit so you know it has been well looked after and treated with respect. If anyone needs to speak to me regarding the car or work that has been done, email is [email protected]. Regards, Daniel.

sew it back into place or take it to a trimmer

There's nothing wrong with full boost (25-30psi) by 4800rpm. You just have to learn to drive the car. The best part about Garrett turbos are that when you've got boost....you've got boost. First gear is the only gear that lag is ever a problem and sometimes it's good to have it so you can at least get her moving up to 40 before all 800 horses start taking you away. My RB20 used to make 20psi at 5200rpm and not once did I ever have a problem with lag. It only takes 1 sec to change from 5th to 3rd or 4th to 2nd and you're screaming away trying to hold on to the back seat. Sure I used to rev it to 8800 but I would be revving it that high regardless. The powerband of the turbo is only going to be 3.5 - 4k rpm at best.

It's like waiting in a dole queue but there is only drugs at the end...no money

You need to get yourself to emergency immediately.

I would be worried if I had Spiders in my bedroom too!

Woot. Ready in 3 weeks!

Wow! honeymoon's over. Settle down Petey! I won't get into a debate with you again. I want to see the finished product first...then you can explain the benefits to me. And I can always pay Rohan to design my other project for me

I think everyone should have one. Happy Now!?

You're going to need to make some oil gallery modifications if you want to run it at 9-9.5k and think about buying a forged crank. The RB30 isn't designed to rev that high reliably especially when you are going to be making 700awhp. Speaking of which, I need to talk to you about those modifications you will need to make....and it's not doing any dumb shite like knife edging the crank.

Will you two stop sucking each other's dikz! Although it is amusing to read, the above convo is no proof that Col had been drinking....his spelling is always that bad. On another note though...wear a condom!

BS. Alloy bends aren't all that expensive and it wouldn't take more than a day to a day and a half to complete with all the f**king around and tigging and crap. Sounds like another excuse for a BBQ Dan. It could be a "Let's fab some shit.....BBQ"

Budget for 350kgs and you should be safe. I would have thought no more than 300 though.

You actually can. Have done so many times. I know it's obvious but did you have the crank back 15 degrees or the cams in the correct position for assembly when you bolted the head down. Even if you have pulled the cam down and only ever so lightly touched a valve on the piston, you may have bent one slightly. This may have caused a very rough idle/missfire at startup but maybe it just took 100k's for the valve to give up with a 0.001" bend in it...get's stuck in place and waits for the piston to come up and hit it. That would be the only way I could see (given all the above information) that you could stuff only one valve. If the valve got hit, then bent....it would have got stuck straight away so the guide will show no signs of rubbing etc. If the valve had a 0.001 or 0.0005 bend in it already then it would have rubbed up and down in the guide for some time before failure. So the key to finding out what went wrong is to dis-assemble the head at that cylinder and inspect the valve and guide, spring etc. Either that or you could leave it in one piece and take it to Chilton Engineering in Deshon St Wooloongabba and he will tell you exactly why it failed. Chilton does engineering work for Ivan and Theo as well as Marty White just to name a few. Very respectable and very honest. Will explain everything so nothing goes wrong.