The Dan

A Garrett ball bearing turbo (like the one above) requires 1.0-1.5L/min of oil flow at 3bar (44.1psi) engine oil pressure. At idle you would likely only have approx 25psi oil pressure and at 3krpm around the 40-50psi mark. They need to be testing it at this level.

I don't think the N1 water pump works with the NEO....unless they have revised the design

Have you checked basics like spark plugs and fuel pressure, timing etc.?

I am also 99% sure they are the same...just don't get sedan lights. You can also drill a tiny tiny hole in one of the lower corners of the light, this will allow water to drain from it. The reason water is getting in there is because either you boot seal is had it or there is a crack in the light somewhere or broken seal. Find the crack or replace the boot seal. In the meantime, drill away.....1mm hole is enough

That is true. But, you can actually buy the tool for it from Nissan. You can also easily make one and if that fails, a meter long flat bar will do it also. Make sure the bar is not sharp on the end...place it against one of the extrusions on the edge of the lid and then tap the bar with a hammer or your palm (using some sort of padding). Hit it an anti-clockwise direction and it will come loose. If you are competant at welding, it is even easier to make a tool for it.

Don't discount valve stem seals. You need to perform tests to determine which is the cause of your problem. Remove the turbo and manifold and do a vacuum test on the exhaust ports to determine the condition of the valve stem seals. If they come up ok, then you need to examine the turbo. I'm not about to go into depth into how you should do this as you won't even have the tools or equipment to test the valve stem seals anyway. Good luck

That is what should have been done first

You may think I'm being a wanker but I am actually trying to help you. By working on your car yourself, you will most likely destroy it slowly but surely. If you can't afford to pay a professional to do it, at least take some time to research the install before you do it and use some common sense as a guide.

Seriously mate, step away from the car and don't go near it again. You need to not touch any car in a mechanical fashion. I'll get my 4yo niece to come around and sort it out for you

Refer to PM sent.

Alt: 4PK855 A/C: 4PK915 P/S: 3PK855 P/Steer belt can vary a bit so make sure you grab the old number which is written on the belt Timing belt is T1040 or T1040R for the gates racing belt

The neo takes the same oil pump and water pump as RB25DET in R33 series skylines. You also forgot alternator belt and timing belt tensioner bearings and bolt. Have you got the engine out? You will need to have the engine out to change the oil pump.

The belt is slightly too tight. Unless it's a gates racing belt, I have fitted a few of these and have had whirring noises just on idle and slightly above. I spoke with Gates regarding this and they informed me it was normal due to the high tensile construction of the belt. On the other side, I would definately take it back as if he has overtightened it, then you have every chance of breaking the idler bearing bolt and say hello to munched valves. You basically have a 50/50 chance of it failing and it is better the be safe than sorry. It'll only take 20mins for him to remove everything and get to the tensioner.

If none of the above solve your problem, it could also be the Attessa Pump. It resides above your diff. This will cause severe surging and surging while cruising etc.

+1 you should ask your mechanic if this is his first turbo install or second

65-70 and your engine will still survive but the factory pump still kicks out 80psi hot at 7000-7500rpm. I wouldn't be overly concerned about it but keep you eye on it nonetheless. And yes general rule with these engines is 10psi for every 1000rpm but it starts at 20-25psi at idle. Then add 10psi for every 1000 on top of that. 20psi at 2000rpm would be too low.

Just measure the thickness of the timing cover including the rubber insert. That is your thickness. If you just use a 3mm washer or spacer you will be fine. It doesn't matter if the CAS is a tiny bit out from it position as there is no load on it and it will still turn in time with the camshaft if it was 0.25 or 0.5mm away from home. You just need to make sure the CAS does not foul on the cam pulley and also make sure the CAS bolts don't foul either

There is no such thing as a series 1.5. All the 33 range of GTST's have the same safe boost value of 12psi. 14 is ok but pushing it, 16 and you're likely to break it.

They aren't personal attacks. We just think you are slightly retarded or maybe taking the piss out of us. The very first reply answered your question, and was the correct answer also. You snapped back rudely so don't get all narky coz you didn't get the reply you obviously wanted. Wake up to yourself and understand that the people on this forum are genuinely here to help but if you have a go at them, they will fire back.....and then everyone else jumps on board. That is all. I'm glad you have the improvement you wanted in the end

Sssh!, geez man, don't suggest anything like that...you'll make him angry. You need to understand his needs below 3000rpm in city driving. Of course it's turbo...it revs all the way out to 3k man! Are you crazy?

Mods, is it possible to change the header of this site to read www.NissanSilvia.com ?

You need to get it tuned again. The 8's are a little too high for your application but I doubt they are at fault. Who tuned your PFC and what size injectors are you using?

different exhaust manufacturers have slightly different setups but they generally go the same direction, only mounts change. The R32 GTR cat back will fit the R32 GTST. Same as R33GTR cat back fits R33 GTST. Not sure if you can change R32 to R33...they have different floor plans. Why do you want to do this?

straight swap

Possibly R32 GTR but photos need to be better. It's not an 044, it is a Nissan Factory pump of some kind