The Dan

Just cut the cover back and leave the part that mounts the PTU. You won't need to make a bracket that way. And the PTU is in the ECU, not built into the coil on the S2

Also, your friends at Rajab should be able to offer some advice on the subject as they have many hi-po cars getting about.

Standard head gasket is good for boost levels up to around 24psi and hp of around 600 at the wheels. Could handle more but I've never tested one any higher Metal gaskets were designed to be reused and to also drop compression like Nismoid said. It is a silly way to drop compression but small drops can be made this way if you had to.

If you can't run a 10.1 with a trap speed of 138mph then more power is not going to help you. You need to improve the vehicles dynamics and maybe driving style. The car has got it in it already, you just gotta bring it out. What was the 60footer time?

they aren't responsive because they're low mounted. Once you go over 350awkw....a big single is more responsive than the twin setup if you correctly match everything

They've all gone to the museum. Looks like you might have to change your forum name. If you want something similar ie. 800-1000hp from the garrett stable, a GT51R is the way to go. You can get them for around $2400 or less and it will definately have more response than that T88.

Mate, there's over $10k in parts that you have just listed Dunno about the labour side of things but 100 hours labour seems excessive

You should have stopped it when it started the ticking noise. You could have just done a crank polish and replaced bearings plus a few other small items. Now, because you drove it til it jackhammered, then drove it more and more, you have worn the bigend bearings completely out and the rod is probably running straight on the crank surface or the bearings may have fused to the crank. The main bearings would be stuffed too because of all the metal particles going through the oil. You have likely stuffed your turbo for the same reason. Stuffed oil pump for the same reason...camshafts could be worn now also. If the engine stopped, that is not a good sign, especially because the oil light came on just before it. I would say 8k would get it back in order again. don't even bother taking the head off, you are wasting your time.

You told me it was stock!

You can actually make 300awkw on standard afm, injectors and f/pump. Just. Even tired GTR fuel pumps are capable of supplying fuel for 300. The AFM's are right near max but if you keep the inlet temps down you will make the figures. Also injectors run at approx 85% if tuned correctly and assuming the pump is good. You would be stupid to leave these things unattended anyway but it's till possible if you want to squeeze it out.

No need for name calling....and everyone knows I get all my info from InitialD videos. :laughing-smiley-014:

No I said the adjustable cam gears cancel out the dodgey coil packs. You still need to run the rail pressure at 140-180psi. Just think about how much more hp you can make with those gears and no other mod...it's like 200hp waiting to come out!! And it's not John's engine. He did the cylinder head.

IF.....and I stress IF the bottom end is fresh and without damage, then yes...it will easily handle your required 300rwkw. In fact, 400rwkw is fairly obtainable if you have the correct supporting systems. If you have no idea on the condition of the engine, then it is really a question of how long until it breaks. You never really know. some things you can do to determine it's condition are: Oil pressure test hot Oil pressure test cold Compression check hot and cold check condition of oil and even have it tested by a third party if you wish And then even if all these items are perfect....a shit tune will destroy it in no time. You need to make sure your fuel system is up to speed and your tune is perfect.

Adjustable cam gears cancel out bad coils. So if you've got dodgey coil packs, just fit a set of cam gears and she's swoit! Yeah, we set rail pressure to 140psi at idle. Had to weld on some reinforcements to keep it all together but it seems to be holding for the time being.

Nice work old man. 340 dyno runs and still strong as ever

Motec are actually one or two months away from releasing the skyline adaptors and they will be very near the price you mention. THey are also only 6-12 months away from releasing their new range of ECU's which are far superior than the M800. I think it's great that there is yet another option out there for people to choose from. No, it will not be competittive with the price tag on the FC but it will be competitive on the track where it counts.

Exhaust manifolds are the same. Plenum/Inlet manifold is not.

You don't need a standard shaft. You do need measuring tools. And just calculate the duration and lift. But anyway, have fun with your new cams

WTF??? You don't drill them out. Were you using aftermarket gears? and to answer the other guys question. Just measure the cam yourself and find out what lift/duration it has.

There's a whole damn thread on this and a full guide on everything needed. Use the search function. It's in Forced Induction Guides at the top.

145rwkw is low but still correct for exhaust only mod. They are 145rwkw stock but if you allow a small variance for dyno accuracy then you could be making 150-155 Most of the 34's I have done make 180-190rwkw after boost increase to 12psi, full exhaust and a remap on the factory ECU.

sauqld.com ftmfw!!!

So I'm asuming you did timing belt? Timing marks could be off.

Looks like a decent result. Let's hope Haltech corrected their wiring diagrams for this one.

SK: You are on the right track there buddy but I think the following extract from Wiki should clear some things up for you. A coilover is an automobile suspension device, short for "coil (spring) over strut". It consists of a shock absorber (British: damper) with a coil spring encircling it. The shock absorber and spring are preassembled as a unit prior to installation, and are replaced as a unit when the shock absorber has leaked. This provides for optimal damping without torsional loads. Some coilovers are adjustable for ride height and hardness as well using a simple threaded spring perch similar to a nut. The coilover is a basic component of the MacPherson strut suspension system, which is distinguished from other arrangements by employing a particular design of anti-roll bar as a longitudinal constraint. This was the first widespread use of the coilover in automobile suspensions. But there are other designs; the word coilover should not be considered a synonym for the MacPherson strut arrangement. Coilovers should not be confused with struts or independently mounted shock absorbers