The Dan

The seal should go in without a problem. Make sure you are using Silicon spray around the inner surface (also helps to spray liberally around the outer edge - that way the seal will slide in easy) and put the seal on the crank at the slightest of angles. Preferably from the bottom in first. Then gently work your two thumbs around the inner edge of the seal (like putting on a tupperware lid) and it will slide on. Then just push it home.

Take the pipe off the front of the turbo and make sure all the blades etc. are still intact.

Sounds like you have shit a turbo. Comp wheel comes off, fragments move through the intake, get caught in the t/body and hold it open. Then, said fragments move further in to the engine and cause more havoc and damage as the engine tries to digest them. Might not be your problem but is still likely and no-one has suggested it yet.

It appears as though you did have one but was there a crank collar fitted?

You'll be hard pressed to find someone who has done it to post up here. It's pretty much a waste of time for the amount spent and the very minimal gains achieved. The pistons you need are 4A-GZE from the suprcharged engine as stated above. These are already a forged piston. 4A-GE pistons are cast and the compression is way too high when you use these. Also 4A-GZE pistons are not $2k new from Tomei.

You could have shipped the cylinder head over here, had the same job done and shipped back to you for about 50000 yen less. Back cutting does provide some benefits but your engineer is correct that it has minimal effect on forced inducted applications.

Hehe....isn't search a wonderful thing. I wish some of these guys would start using it.

Not true. He is running a Microtech, therefore, will have no AFM. Check the intercooler piping (including the pipe straight off the turbo and also into the plenum), that is the most likley cause.

That is the most silly thing I have ever heard. You will not be able to bore the RB20 that large. Insane.

Wouldn't have anything to do with that Bee-r limiter would it? And 5V is right on max for the AFM so it is also possible you are outflowing it. How much power are you making in KW at the wheels?

Just so everyone is aware. Even if this unit does not come with a hand controller, Mountain Runner does an awesome data logging/viewer which can be wired into any system.

There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible. It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so. That is all.

You won't if you do it properly. Why don't you just buy the RB25 one??

You can buy the SARD twin feed ones for approx $270-$280

It will fit but not completely. The small 10mm bolt hole at the top will not line up and you will have to fill it with silicon or something similar. I recommend 3 bond. This topic has been covered 1 billion times. Try to use the search function next time. Cheers, Daniel

If you have not done many K's in the car, you could try a last resort bed-in on the rings also. Find a long road, preferably long gradual hill...stick it in 4th at 50km/hr put one foot lightly on the brakes and plant the accelerator. Try to keep the car struggling to get up the hill or to move along. You should only need to do this for a minute or so. If it's not that, then it could be as suggested many time above - valve stem seals. This is good in a way as they can be done without having to remove the cylinder head. Good Luck!

Also, do not do as suggested and take it somewhere else and send in the bill to the previous workshop. You will not get one red cent out of them. The law states that a workshop MUST be given the opportunity to rectify the problem at their cost (if it's their fault), otherwise you will have no legal claim to monetary compensation.

Was the engine correctly run in? Idle it for any extended periods of time (more than 30 seconds) and you can bet your arse you will glaze those bores. If it has been run in correctly, then you shouldn't have to worry about this. Any chance you could be more specific on when the smoke is seen?

Throttle Position Sensor Otherwise known as TPS

No tape will stick inside the fuel tank. A better way would be to solder the wires together. If you are going to use crimp terminals, make sure you stagger them so they are not next to each other. That way if they come loose or break, they will not touch each other

To start with, you need to do some more reading. Poncams are cams...they are made by Tomei and these cam-shafts are called Poncams as they are their baseline general performance increase product. Cam gears will allow you to move the torque curve to a better position. Cams will increase torque or efficiency at certain levels, there is many different cam profiles available and each does a different thing. What mods do you have?

PM sent

Why would your lights turning off be an AFM problem?

sorry mate, it's a harsh reality. Valve stem seals are more likely to leak at negative cylinder pressure as the vacuum effect draws oil through the stem seals. They can weap at idle also but it slowly gets burnt away and not so noticable. On decel, the cylinder draws oil past the stem seal and because you have no real combustion until you resume accel, it will become quite noticeable at this point. Could still be your turbo but would hate to see you replace it and have the same problem without checking it properly first.

AND.....your factory turbos require MORE oil flow than this.