The Dan

I know that many people have been waiting for the manuals and most of us probably have them. I have created a little menu system whereby you can select between the two manuals. It is autorun when you insert the CD with nice little icons and stuff. I have also included acrobat reader 5.1 so you can read them if you don't already have it installed. Anyway....I have cable so download the complete ISO image or I have compressed it into tiny bits for all you dial-up people. Let me know what you all think. Cheers. ftp://[email protected]:77

That's the thing, he can't say anything about it costing too much to maintain coz I'm a mechanic so I do all my own work, I get parts at rediculously low prices through work and I never had to spend a cent in two years on it except services, which I do myself. The only thing is now I have done the full rebuild he told me it is a waste of money and I argued and argued. Forge pistons...blah blah it'll be stronger now and the engine will last me for another five years(which is what I want it to do). 2000 k's after the rebuild...turbo shits itself, now he refuses to help. I got no way to get to work (he has two cars and usually lends one to me). He is just trying to prove a point. Turbo is only gonna cost me 600 to repair and was only a result of the engine going in the first place...it was only a matter of time. Now everyone keeps telling me to sell it and it's not worth anything. Tell me this...please...anyone.: R32 in good condition Hyflow turbo Large front mount huge fuel pump bigger reg fully rebuilt, forged Ross pistons, balanced, blueprinted engine race and comp bearings ported head lightened flywheel button clutch 300 RWHP I did everything myself except the balance...total cost $6000 over 2 years I could sell this for $16,000 right? (not that I want to) but I reckon it would be worth that with a good turbo back on it. NOT ONE PERSON BELIEVES ME....They reckon "those cars aren't worth anything" yeah right. I WANT MY CAR DRIVING AGAIN....I WILL CRUSH WHOEVER STANDS IN MY WAY. lol I'm not listenin to any of their crap, coz every person who has ever bagged the 'line', I have taken 'em for a drive and suddenly they want one...funny that hey. That's all from me...BTW I'm not cryin or anything, just gettin the frustration out on the keyboard.

yeah, I know the ones...they go in the shed so when you have the engine out next time you can say, "hey, that's where that bolt went". You either don't know where they go or they are too hard to get back in.

yeah, it's like 15 bucks or something... but then the job doesn't have that whole...backyard smell to it! yunno what I mean. lol

Another trick if you don't wanna go out and buy a clutch aligning tool is get a broom handle and carefully machine down one end to fit perfectly into the clutch spline. You can use a bench grinder or you can get a redneck uncle to whittle it for ya. Whatever ya cup of tea....she works like a treat. Just gotta make sure it is even all round. Or if you're really good, you'll never ever need one. Coz you'll be like me and do every single one by eye...about 100 now and never had to re align one...but hey.

yeah me too, it's so.....two years ago. lol..not sturrin...just take it as a joke, nothin ta see here

Another good one is Wally from P&M motor body repairers at Capalaba. (3390 3999) He might be getting 34 and 35 compliance within the next 6 months. He's got a 35 waiting in Japan to come over and he goes there every few weeks to buy more stuff. He owns P&M and owns Cresta Australia(import spare parts supplier).

yeah sure, I gave my paint code to a panel beater for the bootlid and it looks totally different up close...too much metallic...frickin idiot.

VIN: ER34 200696 MODEL: GGKBRTFR34UDAAW-B- SERIES: R34 DATE: 11/00 COLOUR: TV2 INTERIOR: G ENGINE: RB25DET DRIVELINE: HICAS 2WD ??: 25GTT (MIGHT BE MODEL SERIES OR SOMETHING SIMILAR) ??: MT.F5 (NOT SURE WHAT THIS IS)

when you enter the vin...don't put the first 6 digits in just start from example HCR32 onwards this should work. Plus I redid the setup and now I found my car...just as I thought...it's an R32 ...wow

works on mine (xp) but can't find my car. Have entered my vin number (EXACTLY) can't find it on any of the databases. Plus I downloaded the whole thing including el1 and gr and crap. I have an r32 gtst

yeah it does, in japanese....if you wanna pay me a thousand dollars to translate it and then you have to buy a minimum of 10 copies at $1000 each.

good luck getting a transmission jack under a car that's on ramps and stands...lol

This is what we do if we can't be bothered walking out the back to get the spiggot bearing puller...hehe lazy mechanics. But try doing this on a S4 or S5 RX7 13Bturbo....aint happenin. This will work on about 90% of spiggot bearings and you usually have to give them a decent bash, not just a tap. But good work, your method is correct.

Sumitomo make Falken for australia anyway. Buy a set of Tornado's...they're cheap, they stick like shit to a blanket and they last ages. 326 suck HTRZ II are alright, try another model though...there are better in that range....as with most brands. Yoko AVS100 are the shizzne Michelin are expensive but make the best tyres on the market...no exceptions Dunlop are crap even the ones that come stock on the Monaro's and HSV's (S04's from memory) But I got 230 RWKW and the Tornado's have trouble stepping out in second. Plus I got 45 thousand outta my last set.

yep

check for a problem with your knock sensors. They'll kick you in the arse when they change your timing curve.

see if it does it on a smooth accel delivery or only when you snap throttle.

or did you mean fuel cut

I appologise for the ignorance but what is the AFM cut. Do you mean the swap to Z32 or infinity or is there another way to get rid of it. Sorry for the off topic question also. So I'll add this. Hybrid Hyflow (which I blew last night - 2 years old running 18 psi) $1500 fitted PWR intercooler (biggest you can possibly fit) $1500 fitted Bosch 945 550 HP fuel pump $270 Malpassi Rising rate reg $165 Full exhaust including wastegate bypass $250 Everything else WAS stock at the time 12.3 @ 119 mph + what's so good about bloody RB25's and 26's anyway. The 20 is stronger than both in my opinion. Plus parts are cheaper and they rev better. and if you're gonna go to all the trouble of putting a different engine in, gimme $10,000 and I'll build ya a V8 that'll pull 10's. My advice...stick with the 20 and throw about $4000 into it.. also, invest in an oil cooler, this will turn your neck snapping 12 second 32 GTST into a "hey, I've had my 32 for 5 years now and it's still a neck snapping 12 second GTST".....(add words like 'hot', 'tough', 'killer' or awesome or all of the above into the previous statement)

to keep it in the gearbox, you have to keep the converter aligned with the gearbox and in the gearbox. General rule for all mechanics...whenever you remove an auto....ALWAYS undo the converter first and push it back into the box (away from the engine). If your friend already has the Auto out of the car and the converter is seperate, the way to align them is...place the converter onto the input shaft of the gearbox and spin it around while pushing it in, this should correctly align the converter into the G/box. If you leave the converter attached to the flex plate, you will NEVER EVER get the gearbox back on again. With your ramps...they probably won't be quite tall enough to get the g/box out but if you get the box off first then use a trolley jack to raise the height from there, you should be able to slide it out the side (just be very careful while jacking car when on ramps or stands). Then you can lower the car back onto the ramps when the box is out. Then repeat to get back in. Obviously the easiest way is to use a two post hoist but this is probably the next practical way to do it. Plus you may need two people at some stages.

They are. go to this site and read...it might help you a little. http://www.meggala.com/injectorscss.htm

if it's an auto, it is VERY important that you undo the torque converter bolts first and push the converter back into the box before removal. That is all.

Drive on ramps are good and will be more stable than the stands but I would advise getting the rear up in the air also, it will make things a lot easier for you. Make sure you have 3/8 drive sockets and long extensions, there aren't many bolts that hold the thing in there and most of them are easier to get from underneath. If you can't get them all from underneath, you may have to remove the heater hoses from the firewall to get at the top two but other than that she's a piece of cake.

The manuals do exist but they cost a lot of money to translate to english.