The Dan

I'm glad to see that someone knows that the only GODZILLAS were the 32 GTR Bathurst. Or at least I hope. I'm sick of all these people who drive GTR's and claim that they are a GODZILLA. Baby Godzilla is their real term. My hail to the walky for she is a sweet vessel. Hail Walky Hail. My hail to all V8's coz they put up such a good fight...lol

Man, I bought my Bosch 800hp , Malpassi Reg, Pressure Guage and all new fuel lines for my rb20 for $600 (trade). $600 installed for a pump is not that much really. When you think about it, he would buy the pump for round $350 then he's gotta add his markup, then labour - around hour and a half including the mod to fit it. It would be quite easy to rack up $600. But are you running the standard regulator? coz if you are...the new pump will blast the crapper out of it and it won't run properly. You need an adjustable one. And the CA18t pump is probably gonna be a little too small to service that engine...just. I think it pumps like 20 litres per hour less than the rb20 item. Will the fuel smell though...you have to check all the obvious places. The tank(underneath). All the fuel lines. All the connections. Filler cap and breather hoses. Around the injector nozzles. See where you can physically smell it the strongest.

My light doesn't come on at all throughout the entire drive. I could drive for 6 hours and no HICAS light. But if I drive down a certain road, past a certain point. BANG on she comes. It annoys the hell outta me. So I go the other way home and it has never come on since. ....Plus wire 53 is cut too.

Usually this is a problem with steering wheel alignment. Try relocating the position to see if it corrects the indicator. The indicator is knocked off at certain steering intervals and maybe you have it too close to one of the knock off points.

Try fiddling with the wires to the hicas computer. It is located under the parcel shelf in the boot. Maybe unplug it and clean up the connections, then do a computer reset. Pull the steering wheel off....***it is very important to remember which hole the sensor went into behind the wheel so remember how you took it off***...and clean the contact points behind the sensor. Hope this helps.

With the 32's. I'm not sure if it works with the 33's also, but you can put a new sensor behind the steering wheel and it fixes the problem with the offset steering wheel. Also when it goes offset, turn the car off then on again and wait about ten seconds (while driving) and the ass end moves a couple of millimeters and the steering wheel centres again. This resets the HICAS sensors.

I don't think it matters what name they call them coz I have trouble reading any of their badges in my rear view. I suppose that's why some of those idiots get around with that full windscreen wide sticker that says 'HOLDEN' or 'MITSUBISHI'. They should put the letters backwards so I know what piece of crap I just carved up. ( a little off topic there but anyway) It doesn't matter what car any of the manufacturers release, there is always going to be some moron out there who can make it look totally rediculous by putting a huge wing or huge stereo on it. Or better still lets get our new 'Sportivo' and put Apexi and Blitz stickers all over it.

yeah, as the suspension is not used to being that low when they jack it up so it can drag in all the dirt around the bush and it's usually the upper control arm inner bush, I've had to do mine and two of my mates twice now. It sounds like there's a DJ with a turntable under your car.

Those are Pad Guides. You need them...the plates/shims that everyone keeps talking about are not so important as they only help prevent squeaks. Your rear caliper should be the same as a 180sx from memory but I will find out what other car you can get the fronts from. Those pad guides are what the little feet on the sides of the pad slide into right?. Just wanna make sure we are on the same level here. Also there is a leaf type spring mechanism on top of the pads. This is semi important. Try to keep this. Look out for the next post. If all else fails, I'll track some down for you and mail the things to ya if that's what it takes for you to have safe brakes. After all, without those guides...there is a possibility under hard braking that the pad can wedge itself onto the disc and cause a massive lockup.

third time lucky...also don't pour too muh oil down there...ONLY 2 CAPFULLS (OIL BOTTLE CAP) otherwise you will hydraulic lock the engine...this is not good.

couple of other things, what wrxhoon says is right...make sure you have the throttle wide open while testing and make sure all of the other plugs are out when you do it.

The difference between ring end gap from a warm to cold RB20 is around 10 thou, so YES...this will make a difference. Also, have you done a wet compression test. This will give you a true indication of whether the rings are bad. All you gotta do is a normal pressure test, then pour about 2 capfulls of oil down the sparkplug hole and do the cylinder again. Note the new readings and then post them hear. I will tell you if the rings appear stuffed. NO QUESTIONS...JUST DO IT!

That may be so, but if anyone here is actually listening to me then you would have read....crack the INTERNAL ring of the harmonic balancer. Sure you might have gotten away with it this time, maybe not...but it is a fact that 9 out of 10 will crack that ring. You will still get the balancer off most of the time but the ring is only cast steel and only about 1.5 mm thick. The balancer won't be visibly damaged but down the track you will spin it and then it's stuffed. You can chose to take my advise or not...it's your funeral. I'm only speaking from experience.

Yes, this is all good but you still need to remap your eprom before the AFM will work properly. You might as well save your dollars and get an aftermarket computer that doesn't require an airflow meter and there goes your restriction. I can get a microtec or haltech installed for $1500 including dyno. This is going to a better option I think as there will be less electrical devices that can stuff up on me. hmmm. now if only I could make the microtec a reliable computer.

I got this on my Front mount. I use a Hobbs Pressure Switch ($50) and when I hit 10PSI it activates the sprayer...it is also adjustable so you can set it anwhere from about 6 up to 25. The leaking sprayer thing I solved by introducing an air bleed at the T-piece...you lose a little water when it sprays but once it stops, the only water that drains is what's left in the line after the T. I am going to sort out another sprayer design so that the water stays at the end, ready for action instead of filling the line back up every time. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

You have 14 days from when you order them, no matter what they are. and you have 1 day (24 hours) to attach them once received. Make sure you keep the receipt in the car.

It's got nothing to do with Skyline's I have lost 38 points in the last 7 years and 26 of them were in my 1.3 LTR Escort. 8 were in my RX4 and the remaining were in the skyline. I don't think he is stupid for posting this as it gives us all a chance to reflect on what we have done wrong and, hopefully, try to change it.. P.S. I have only lost 4 points in the last two years so I am getting better. Plus not all of them were speeding. I have NEVER drunk drove and never run a red light...but I have gone 10 kms over the limit on many occasions. It doesn't make me a dangerous driver, I'm just a stupid one.

Guilty!. .....The whole department is corrupt: police, government, legal system. They all make up their own rules.

have you checked for leaks in vacuum hoses to the guage. Either that or the valve is nil op

You can be booked for a loud BOV. They are illegal to vent to atmo but nothing to do with the cat for christ's sake. The Pod filter idea is a cheap way to make the standard plumback unit a little more audible. I would do this first as it is fairly cheap to do and you might be surprised at the increased level of noise. If you still want it louder after that, then go for a Turbosmart V port or something like that, don't get anything with a trumpet on it. And don't get a crap monza one. They are gay. And for all you people with automatics...what is the use of even putting a atmo-venting BOV on your car, they only operate when you close throttle and seeing as though your foot is always down, it kinda seems pointless. Go manual all the way. Cheers.

Why dick with it.....try removing your braking system, this only increases the rolling resistance of the vehicle...it should make you go faster though. Or you can remove the front and rear windshields to let the air pass straight through rather than around. That might work. What if you remove all the panels, seats, dash and carpets to light weight it...hmmm that's an idea. OR HOW ABOUT YOU JUST BOLT A FRIGGIN BIG TURBO ON IT AND STOP ***** FOOTING AROUND WITH LITTLE CRAP THAT WON'T MAKE A DIFFERENCE AND PROBABLY JUST GIVE SOME DUMB COP ANOTHER REASON TO TAKE THE CAR OFF YA. Sorry, I got a little outta control there, right at the end bit.

Exactly What He Said!!!!

That's the first time I've ever heard or there being two. I'm not sure where you saw that but I have never seen it. I know that when you add and aftermarket one, you leave that standard one on as a backup device to prevent total loss in case of new reg failure.

This might be attributed to the fact that you are dispelling air that has been measured from the AFM thus car runs rich but less air per fuel ratio. Plus AAC valve is doey and engine drops out. I'm gonna try the earth thing. Can't hurt and sounds like it makes sense.

I thought they were 9 psi standard. Anyway, you could try Nicks Clutchs...or not...whatever choice you make...they all do good work..the question you asked though is should you go to the real deal. Well, think of it this way.. A fire hose can push more water than a garden hose. Even if there is no fire...it is good to have one there when there is...so basically, get the heavy duty one. You might not have big horsepower at the moment, but when you do...it's one less thing you have to change. I would only go twin plate if you are hoping to go really big HP and you want one leg to be bigger than the other. You'll end up walking in circles all the time.