The Dan

I don't really think we can refer to them as correct or incorrect unless they are incorrectly calibrated. Dynos are a comparative tuning tool. They only need to be consistent to be accurate. It doesn't matter if they are out by 5%, 10% or even 20%, as long as they are consistently out, the tuner will tune the car exactly the same. It's like if I'm building an engine. I use a very expensive set of micrometers, bore gauges and other instruments to work out clearances and other things. But say I whipped out my $250 chinese copy set from a decade ago, I measure a journal with the mitutoyo set and get 1.8880 and get 1.8901 on the bearing but with the chinese set I measure the journal at 1.8884 and the bearing at 1.8905. Is the chinese set any less accurate than the mitutoyo set? Not for this type of comparative measurement it's not. I still get 0.0021" clearance. If I was relying on that chinese set to give me an accurate shaft size for something and wasn't comparing it to something for clearance....then it would be inaccurate.

I tried to tell everyone. There's a thread here somewhere if you wanna have a bit of a read. Change the oil to something else. Motul gear, royal purple or something like that

There is no doubt that in an engine that is as highly engineered as those, they would perform those practices but still, the question from my previous post still stands: when a cylinder is running, the dynamic relationship between the rings and the bore are such that any measurement you take is not going to be the same at any stage of the stroke and completely different while the engine is running under different loads because of the flex in the bore

What's your budget for aero look like?

The sender produces its own signal so you can test it at every point in the loom. We usually trace it back to the section of the harness just beneath the fuse box and break it open there. Splice in with our scope and test the signal. If the signal is good, the dash is going to be the problem or the wire under the dash behind the cluster. 9/10 times it's the cluster though. The heat f**ks them up. Borrow a mates, swap it out and see if it fixes your problem

Ok people, so in the interest of keeping the information flowing I would like to add the following: I did as I said I would and took the necessary measurements. The engine is a freshly machined RB26. I used a new head gasket and the same cylinder head that will be going on that block for the completed job. The measurements were taken diagonally (between head stud location) and from N, S, E and W (North, South etc) position in the bore at every 0.5-1" intervals. With the block by itself, the maximum out of round and bore taper did not exceed 0.0002" for the entire length of the bore (above where the top ring is at its highest point and below the pin boss area at its lowest). I then fitted the gasket and the cylinder head, torqued it all down to specification using lubricant on the bolts and having everything clean etc as if it were going to be a finished job. With the head attached and measuring from the crank side down towards the valves, the maximum out of round and bore taper was unchanged from the original measurements until the final 1 inch of bore where it became 0.0005" larger diagonally and 0.0003" N, S, E and W. This was measured using a Mitutoyo internal bore gauge. So in summary, yes the head bolts distort the block when torqued with the head on, no it's not enough to worry about in an RB engine. All the people using torque plates or performing hot honing, ask yourself this: If torque plates or hot honing matter that much in your RB engine, do you also bolt your sump on, attach your gearbox and bolt in the crankshaft before doing it? All of those things should have some effect on block distortion. The question is, does any of it matter? And to correct myself on my previous post, you might not need a new bore gauge, I read your post incorrectly the first time sorry

It can't. It would barely pull off 400rwkw. Even the Z with a bigger comp on 1.4 bar wouldn't do that.

You forgot to add that he did it something like more than 10 years ago when R34's were practically brand new. Tommy: Chew me at the base you retard

Me?

What alloy buckets?

Valve regrind, then get your machinist to trim the valves to get the right clearance. If you get stuck and need some, Precision Shims Australia have them

From memory we set them up at 0.016" intake and 0.014" exhaust. That's about 0.4mm intake and 0.35mm exhaust. If you set them anywhere near 0.018"-0.020" it will be noisy as hell

I would say you need a better bore gauge

Is it possible you actually had 500hp? And half a tank of fuel? Can you send me a PM with your setup so I can see what sort of power you should/would make?

Take a log with FC Edit. Email it to me or Jez

Curb weight of a 32 GTR is 1430kg

Maybe they're using the same chipset Haltech are using? Check coil output from the ECU with a scope and check coil charge times. Is there an option for coil charge time in the new firmware Cal?

What weight and mph? I'll tell you what mine says. See if its the same

I'm not really an expert on the subject but if you take out an auto and put in a manual, aren't you going to make more HP at the wheels? This would also coincide with your higher trap speed

We've found Moroso's calculator to be the most accurate and consistent.

Ignite VL does 160mph and weighs 3000lb. It reads 680-710hp on the dyno. Calculator says 950hp.

Mine says 560-580

Your mph suggests you have more like 620-650hp (462-485kw) What did it make with the gas included?

Nismo website lists them as 380-420ps on the single plate

Yeah the SAU lynch mob can get a bit out of hand sometimes haha