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Everything posted by The Dan
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Only Rwd In R33 Gtr
The Dan replied to spence-GTR's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Is the front drive shaft still there? If it is, check the pump has power when you turn it on. Also try bleeding the system. Are their any lights coming up on the dash? -
There is no formula to work out when your pump is getting tired. I can tell you now though, you'll be kicking yourself when you melt a piston all because you wanted to save a couple of hundred dollars.
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'nitto' R34 Gtr Wins Powercruise Dyno Comp
The Dan replied to rad100's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Very impressive indeed. Paul knows how to build em alright. I also doubt it will become the most powerful as Mark's makes about 1400hp and Heat Treatment makes around 1600hp but it's certainly on it's way. That turbo is capable of more so I would have to ask the question, what is next on the list to open her up some more? -
Why not wire in the entire diagnostic plug?
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For some that's not a whole lot of movement
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From what I hear, babies sleep through pretty much anything so just go 4inch straight and forget about it
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I haven't disagreed with any of the turbos mentioned. GT3082 (or GT3040 if you buy from GCG) is a good sized turbo for ppl wanting to make 300-350rwkw without too much fuss. I was only mentioning the capping out thing with the 0.63 rear so he was aware that it will do this. There is nothing wrong with that turbo on a stock 25 though. The 3076 in external gate form is not too bad but in order to get it to 300rwkw you MUST choose the 0.82 rear. If you aren't going to rev your stock engine over 7500 (which is a good idea to keep it alive longer) then the 3082 with the 0.63 is a perfect match. You cap it down in power a little but you make up for it in better response. Other turbos to choose would be GT2871 if you want to make around 250rwkw or the GT3071 for approx 270-280rwkw Other brands of choice would be something like a TD06 20G 8cm which has pretty good response for that engine. It also depends on what you want out of the car, response and power with a bit of a tradeoff or response and power with a lot of tradeoff on power or better power with a tradeoff in response.
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Won't allow any more power to be produced? The only difference between your stock engine making 300rwkw and your stock engine making 450rwkw is how good your tuner is.
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+1 ^^^ Thrust bearing is located in the middle main bearing journal (number 4)
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Whats This? Inside Turbo Inlet Pipe Of Rb20det
The Dan replied to just_matt's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That is there to create turbulence. You don't need to run it in your new pipe but make sure, if you are running an AFM, that you put it as far away from the turbo as possible -
Sounds like the guy you are talking to is a tool. Depending on where you are, there are massive fines for running no catalytic converter. 3" all the way but spend some decent money on a good quality rear muffler. You could run 5 inch all the way, it's the rear muffler that will determine 85-90% of the sound that comes out of it
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Just remember that with a 0.63 rear, you will choke it in the top end. I I wouldn't expect it to make power past 7000rpm and it will cap out at about 300rwkw
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My experience with the 3076 is that it's doughy as all shit and with a 0.82 rear, no where near coming on full at 4000. Not sure what stock internals has to do with making power either? Aside from obvious things like lighter piston. But there is nothing special a forged piston is going to do to spool up a turbo really
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Most of the information there is very outdated. You will get better results by drilling out the oil return holes in the block and head. Forget the drain in the back of the head as it's a waste of time and think carefully about the oil supply and how much oil you will need if it's a street car. If you cruise around at 3000rpm on the highway and have a single 1mm restrictor fitted, then say goodbye to your valvetrain. If it's going to spend more time on the street then the track you should not restrict the oil so much but instead put in a double catch can with a return to the sump. Anyway a bit off topic sorry. There are a couple of Q45 AFM's, you have to make sure you get the right one from what I have heard. They ditched the Q45 and PFC and put in a Haltech E11 into Noels RB25, instantly made about 50hp more at the wheels.
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As above. Z32 would have been better. Don't know what a GT3040 is but if you are referring to a GT3082, then 320-350rwkw is about the most you will get. We have found the PowerFC to be rather good for mildly modified RB25's but once you get over about 300rwkw they seem to not get very good results. I would change it out for a Wolf V500 or a Link G4 or a Vipec
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For Nistune or any tuning - EFI Performance in Yatala
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I don't have any here sorry. We turf them all pretty quickly. I rang Doug, he said you called. He could have something made and sent tomorrow if you wanted something done that requires no thought. He would probably just use DHL or something as you're in Dubai or something aren't you? He said the total thickness is 8mm but the individual friction pads are about 3mm each, then the cushion wave takes up about 1mm or something close to that. Exedy at eagle farm may be able to give you exact figures. +61 7 3268 2640 Alternatively, Doug at NPC could just make you a plate to suit your application and freight it across. You'd have it before mid next week I'd imagine
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Rb25det Clutch Slave Cylinder
The Dan replied to xris's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Yep, sounds like the animal -
How Do I Raise The C/r To 9.0:1 ?
The Dan replied to Turbo_Knuff's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Sorry but that's the biggest load of shit I have ever heard. You aren't going to take enough off a cylinder head to have that much of an effect on the timing belt. -
Rb25det Clutch Slave Cylinder
The Dan replied to xris's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
There is no JB number. Nissan genuine only -
How Do I Raise The C/r To 9.0:1 ?
The Dan replied to Turbo_Knuff's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The collar can be purchased and fitted for about $200 total. Being in Sweden might make things hard but there's always international shipping