The Dan

WTF? RB25DET's are factory 9:1 comp ratio You are gaining nothing by putting RB26 gear in your RB25 block. Unless you have a spare crank lying around that you need to use. The stroke is slightly more but the extra 100cc is not going to do FA for torque or power.

WTF? Are you completely helpless? http://www.whitepages.com.au/wp/busSearch....s&location=

It depends on where in the box it came from. There are 3 or 4 of them in an RB20 box. If it's from the selector rods and you change gears fast enough, you could select 2 gears at once. Yes it will explode if that happens. If it's from the back end of the box like the main shift rod, then it will just make the shifter really sloppy. They are used to locate the selector arms onto the selector rods and the shifter link onto the main shifter rod. Try taking the shifter housing off (where the shifter goes in) and see if the roll pin is still bashed through the rod. If it is still there, then the one you have is one of the bad ones

MTQ Engine systems are the largest GT dealer in the country. Try them also As for your problem, I would say very characteristic of valve stem seals in the cylinder head.

And why didn't you just get CRD to fit the master cylinder? It's about 1hr labour

No, they would be more constant unless the fork hung up the ball in it's position, then slipped off again but that would be an extreme long shot. The master cylinder pushrod adjustment can sometimes be tricky and you've gotta do it in small increments. Only one full rotation at a time. If the pressure feels low in the travel then you need to increase the distance between the pedal and the master. This means you need to wind the pushrod out of the U bracket - towards the firewall. There is a way to perfectly adjust them but I can't really explain it in text. It's something you learn from years doing it. Goodluck

Why did you replace the master and slave in the first place? Have you checked the pivot ball and throwout fork to make sure either one is not broken. And just because the U bracket on the master is in the similar position you will still need to adjust it. One full turn on the pushrod can take it from not getting into gear, to getting into gear. There are so many things you could have done wrong but it's hard to diagnose over the internet

Lube mobile won't know what they are doing. Take it somewhere that does. If you fit a new master cylinder you probably don't have the adjustment correct on the pushrod.

Yes, this is what I think the cause is. But it could be that now I just happen to notice them more rather than before ^^ I like this guy!

TUF250 - the problem is that everyone has different ideas on how to calculate fuel flow and how much power a pump will support. Yes a certain pump can support 300rwkw but can it also have good fuel control and be able to run 10.5:1 at peak torque when it needs to? or is it at 12:1.....who knows? It is still best to tell other ppl on the forum what your setup is and ask for their experience and opinion. 9/10 you'll get the response you are after, other times I am just tired and angry

I f**ken hate those!!! In fact I'm going to make my own set to take the piss.

The flutter is the sound of the air bouncing back and forth between the turbo and the throttle plate but also circulating through the BOV. Blocking the BOV off gives what they call a 'dose' which is even more gay. Agree with above, good arguments either way but in my opinion Nissan (and every other car manufacturer who runs a turboed performance car) didn't spend millions of dollars developing a car if it didn't need something. Rally car drivers use them......for a reason. There is more argument that it gives better performance than protecting your turbo. On a side note, it is a well known fact that the best way to get flutter is to paint a butterfly on your bonnet. You can also paint a flower, which will attract bees and give you the same result but the butterfly is the loudest

+1 need to bleed the master first if you started with a dry system

Yeah I know how it is. I get it from Toyota all the time the lazy fokkers The guys at Springwood Nissan (for anyone ready this in Brisbane) are the absolute best when it comes to the imports stuff

I understand that but my first reply to you was to ring Nissan and just tell them your car is a manual. They don't need your VIN to find the part numbers but I know some Nissan dealers use this as an excuse not to look it up. Just tell them you have a manual R32 and those are the numbers they will give you

What I would like to know is what the f**k it has to do with EPA? It's a plenum, not a flux capacitor. Tell them to shove it up their arse and take them to court if they complain about it.

The genuine bolts are retail $9 each for the flywheel and the clutch bolts are $2 each. Bellhousing bolts can be sourced from a fastener shop which we already covered in your other thread

30223-JA00A - Clutch bolt 12315-04U00 - Bolt Fly Wheel 08071-0601A - Hex Bolt (No longer available) 08171-0601A - Hex Bolt (No longer available) Pretty sure these are just an M10 x 70mm but check the thread pitch on your old bolts to confirm in case they are M10x1.25x70

Nissan parts Springwood 07 3290 7890 Tell them it's a manual and they'll give you the part numbers......for a manual. Also noticed you are in Darwin. Nissan dealer up there can't help?

Agreed, it is cheaper if you can get the RB25 shaft with your gearbox or find one cheap enough to steal the front section.

It's only about 3mm....which is kinda splitting hairs a little. Yes just change the yoke over to VG30 300ZX (aus delivered so readily available at all driveline stores) no change in length is required.

^^^^ +1 Have started cars after 2 years of sitting and fuel was not a problem, not ideal, but not your cause

It takes frickin AAAAAAAAGES to glaze bores with extra fuel when an engine is already run in. It's only fresh engine that this is a problem for. Check to make sure you plugged the AFM's in and check that you plugged them into the correct ones. Go into sensor check and make sure you get a reading from them as well

yeah but he said his engine was cold

8kg-cm2 is only 113psi. If you are revving the engine when it's cold......this is normal. Also, if he had an oil leak from somewhere, oil pressure is likely to drop.....not go up