The Dan

Oil pressure is supposed to go up when revs increase. That's what engines do. If it doesn't have excessive blowby then buy a new dipstick. If it pops that out, then you either have an incorrectly plumbed catch can, a blockage in the factory breather system or cam cover or you do have excessive blowby and just don't know it

You could stop by the workshop tomorrow mate. I have a few gearboxes lying around and I can definitely tell you if it will fit or not

Did you not look at it before buying it?

I'm sorry but your mechanic with the oil filter is probably not too bright. He is probably using the wrong threaded oil filter. These will seal up to 200psi so it's not likely to be a faulty relief valve. Have never seen one as yet and the engine builder should have checked that anyway. The squirters on a 20 are the same as a 25 and they can be broken if not installed correctly or if the piston is put in back to front. Either way, the engine builder needs a talking to

Get a clue? You need to calm the f**k down asshole

What's the tuning like would be the more important question - answer = the best You can't put a price on a good tune I can put one on a bad tune though - $7-$10k when your engine blows up

The hissing you are hearing is probably the PCV valve. They all hiss when running. if you don't know how to do comp or leakdown tests, take it to someone who can. + lol at Greddy Copy plenum. You probably sucked a large chunk of cast into your engine. I've never seen a good one yet.

At 60psi the flow rate drops to 50 gallons per hour which is 189L/hr. The standard fuel pump is virtually the same. The Bosch intank pumps flow 200 L/hr at 70psi. At 60psi they are still doing approx 230L/hr. Anyone running 15-20psi of boost will see rail pressures of around 60psi

How many of you people have removed your tank to clean it when changing a pump? Walbro or Bosch....if you didn't have the tank cleaned, then you cannot make fair comment on either one failing. I have always, and always will judge them on flow rate

Spitting it out of the breather. 3 cars all did the same thing. We even tried extending them to a catch can. They would lose half a litre approx every 20-30kms or driving. Would lose nothing on the track though. We even tried pulling out a litre to see if it would still do it.....and it did So we swapped it out for the Motul Gear Competition and problem solved. I haven't been game to go back to it in case I end up having to wear the cost. No one will replace the batch under warranty for us

oh btw one other thing. I have never tried to plug an R34 CAS into an R33 loom so it may plug in also. An R34 CAS can easily be identified by it's black plastic body, rather than the aluminium one in previous models. It also has a different cam drive.

No problem mate, that's what we're here for

As long as it plugs in and it's off an RB, the CAS's are no different

Yep

All the later CAS's are the same up til R34 The only one you will have to be careful on is the early R32 version. It has a rectangle plug on it. The Rb20, 25 and 26 CAS in the 91- models has a rectangle plug but too but the corners are rounded. They are made by Mitsubishi and try to get the one with the black rubber plug in the centre as they are usually all later model ones

Yes that is correct. However, it's not like introducing a direct leak to an intercooler pipe, it's more of an in-direct addition of unmetered air through the ventilation system into the intake

Tell the idiot at Nissan to look at his notes - he is being lazy. They will both supersede to the same one. The speedo drive is the same in all series one boxes from 89 - early 93.

ok so let's say your injector failed all of a sudden.....or you pump....or wastegate diaphram perforated and it hit 40 psi all of a sudden. All of these things are possible yet they are not the tuner's fault. It takes half a split second for a weak link in a chain to break. What part failed? What is broken? With all due respect, stop blaming the tuner until you have that puzzle together

Yeah they are ok but have their limitations. I guess everyone has their horror stories and there are those that run them problem free. I only look at the Walbro website and see the flow drop to 170l/hr at 5 bar and that is enough for me to stay clear on anything wanting 240+ rwkw so I usually stipulate 220rwkw as a maximum to my customers when using that pump. I know you can probably get more out of them but as far as having full 'control' of the fuel system, it diminishes once you push them to their limit.

half a litre down in the gearbox will not be an issue.....avoid track work make sure the diff is full

OP - Not turning this into a F-con is good or bad debate though. Out of all the voltage interceptors available, the HKS one would be the pick. But at the end of the day, you are just introducing another place for failure when using any piggyback system. Other things like: Walbro fuel pump Standard Injectors Are poor choices for any car hoping to make more than 220rwkw I understand what you are saying about the training HKS make their tuners undergo which does eliminate fly-by-nighters and dodgey first timers.....but if you have that much faith in their capabilities, why are you even contemplating the thought of them being at fault? No picture can be seen 100% until the puzzle is complete. Diagnose the failure, then you'll be able to work out what caused it, look at EVERY piece of the puzzle including the tune, and you will then have your answer. There is nothing anyone here can tell you without knowing ALL the facts.....until then, it's just speculation - as shit really does 'happen'

have you tried putting a stock AFM back in place?

We know a bad idea when we see one

Did you tune it to suit the Z32 AFM? You got buckleys of getting anything out of it with the incorrect AFM tuning

Would you run a 100m sprint with a gay clown tied to your back? No. Cause he'd f**k you the whole way....just like a piggyback ECU does