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wildeagle44

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Posts posted by wildeagle44

    Interchangable Rb Oil Pumps

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    The na 30 pumps less than the turbo 30 pump. They are all different butwill allbolt on.N1 pumps break due to huge revs and potential misalignment caused by line boring, combined with the small drive contact on the crank. All pumps barely make contact on the crank drive. what are your goals for the engine?

    Used in a drift car. So high revs constantly.

    Makes 260kw so not huge power.

    Spun Bearings?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    how do you know the oil pressure was down? what if the gauge was having a hissy fit ?

    Honestly I don't, I bought a new gauge anyway and will most likely run them both.

    Forget the "head drain" - read the last 10 or so pages (or the whole thread if you have time to kill) of the oil control thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control

    Had a good read of all of it.

    I've already got the fittings to do it, even if it just acts as a sump breather then it's better than nothing.

    I don't see a problem with the bearings or the cap. Looks fine with no actual significant wear.

    I would check the pump for issues but if its fine I would put the car back together with a good aftermarket oil pressure gauge (assuming you were basing the reading off the OEM gauge).

    Thanks man, new bearings are sitting here ready to go on tomorrow anyway. Pump is off tomorrow too. Would like to replace it but will see what it's like.

    Just replace it. Bearings are worth stuff all and well worth being changed given the motor is out.

    With regard to the rest of the motor, if you can afford it rebuild it if you plan to continue drifting it as its a pretty destructive sport. The engine will need to be rebuilt sooner or later so why not do it now ;)

    Bearings are getting done tomorrow.

    I'd love to do a rebuild but it's a large expense I can't afford at the moment. I will of course one day, just hoping to get what I can out of it now before I take that path.

    Destructive is an understatement.

    Thanks For the input!

    Spun Bearings?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    There was no knocking sound that I could hear afterwards. Didn't want to run the engine for more than a couple seconds incase somthing was up.

    Will check everything out today and see if there is any damage.

    Ordered an oil restrictor and some fittings for a head drain last night so it will be done before motor goes back in. Going to check out sump options now.

    Cheers

    Spun Bearings?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    How are the crank journals, scored?

    Was a bearing spun?

    If so dont muck around, in fact id look at getting some beefier rods in there to avoid this happening again.

    Hows the oil pump, is it cracked?

    What happened, were you holding the revs up high for a while, while redlining it? If so could be oil surge that built up in the head and dried out your sump that caused this.....good oil drain back to the sump is a known RB issue.

    Crank looked alright to me and bearings had not moved. There was no rod knock that i could hear after it happened. I just assumed the worst.

    Have not looked at the oil pump yet. Was likely going to opt for a new one anyway.

    Was holding about 5500-6000 rpm i dont like getting near limiter if possible.

    Motor has done 2 sprint days and about 11 drift days now and this is my first engine issue.

    Spun Bearings?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hello SAU

    Need a bit of guidance as to what needs to be done. Haven't checked any of this stuff before so it's a learning experience.

    Long story short - Drifting 3rd gear full boost and I saw oil pressure drop, turned off car immediately and rolled back into pits. Did a quick start, Oil pressure was back up put it on the trailer and that was it. Pulled motor today to check the damage.

    These are pictures of the bearing cap and bottom half of bearing. In my opinion it's the worse of the lot. Do I replace it or it it ok to go back in?

    Bearing Cap

    20go22p.jpg

    Bearing

    iyg1mw.jpg

    What do you guys think?

    Also if it's bad, Can I just pull the crank and pistons out, replace/machine crank if need be and new bearings. Do I need to do anything with the pistons and rods? Like adjust or replace rings? Get anything checked? Or can I just bolt the rods back to the crank and put it back in no worries?

    Thanks all.

    Sydney: R33 Stock Parts, Winch,

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted · Edited by wildeagle44

    All parts located seven hills sydney.

    Can post at Buyers expense. Paypal, bank deposit and cash ok.

    R33 tie rods - $20 pair

    R33 castor arms with offset bushes - $30 pair

    Offset bushes give you a bit more castor.

    R33 lower control arms - $90 pair

    R33 driver side wheel hub, sway bar link and upright - $30

    R33 rear seats top and bottom - $10

    RB25DET S1 coil pack cover - $15

    RB25DET S1 intercooler pipe, turbo to side mount with nipple - $5

    SCA 12v boat winch with cables - $35

    Came with car trailer, have never used it, previous owner did once

    256xo2d.jpg

    r8tbvp.jpg

    2meolet.jpg

    xm0ow1.jpg

    99h2ty.jpg

    Slightly negotiable on prices. Everything is in reasonable condition. Had it all as spare but my motor went pop so need to sell off some stuff.

    PM and I'll get back to you

    R33 No Power Steering, Out Of Ideas?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hi, so my r33 gtst has lost power steering.

    Bought a z32 nisstuned ecu and installed in the car. I know that mods need to be done to enable power steering in the r33's so I thought of course thats the culprit. Pulled it apart and all the necessary modifications have been done correctly, checked with a multimeter and everything came back good.

    HICAS is removed so I tried bridging power to the hicas pins on the ecu plug and that didnt work either.

    There are no leaks, the resovior has fluid, belt is in good condition. Tried jacking up and steering full lock left to right to pull fluid through but still nothing.

    I'm still leaning towards a problem with the ecu but I couldnt find a reason why it shouldn't be working?

    Any help is muchly appreciated.

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