midnight

try ebay, thats where i got mine

I thought jap fuel went upto 108? check your timing. when I got my car from jap the timing was way out, and it was detonating. once I wound it back it ran fine on 98octane. also you don't have to unplug the emanage, you could just clear the maps. with the sofware and cable, but I wouldnt recommend doing this unless you know waht you are doing and youd want to save the tune first.. so yeah best to get a pro to sort it out.

or you could buy local from techedge http://wbo2.com/default.htm

I seem to remember that it was an accessory from nissan, along with a few other cool things. there was a thread yonks ago on em.

damn, you'd be pissed if that was your car...

white r33, green p-plates, plates u* o**, spit junction cruised beside me to the spit, where I turned off.

he has screwed around one of my mates too on nissansilvia.com with a wheel purchase.. last time I spoke to my mate he had only received half of his money back, and was awaiting the other half.

get someone to test your o2 with a multimeter before you change it.

thats what it says in my profile B)

some bloke in a darkish r33 followed me and stopped beside my black sileighty to have a chat... followed for another street then overtook me fair fast. 630pm ish , harbord area, northern beaches.

its basically just a big resistor. not a very good way to get more power.

wouldn't the car wanting to change gears at higher revs be to do with the shift kit?

dude, no one but yourself can make this decision for you.

im fairly certain that it is a standard usb cable, and you only need a special cable for laptop <-> emanage google it

ok well Ive been trying to diagnose the reason for my bad fuel economy and car running rich, so I tested the o2 sensor. as my digital multimeter took a swan-dive into the floor, ive had to use an analogue meter. should I still be able to see the voltage fluctations at cruise with an analog meter? I went on a 10min drive with the multimeter tapped in and the voltage varied between 0.12v and 0.25v inconsistantly and was not effected by weather I was cruising or heavily accelerating/braking. I think its time for a new sensor.

ok I tried my turbo timer in my mates car, direct swap for his hks timer and it turns out the actual timer is broken... goddamn it

yeah but if people wanted strength theyd stick with the stock bonnet.

trace it and see where it goes.

PM sent, ill take the PIAAs

how do you calibrate the speed? and ive checked the ign wire with a multimeter its fine.

its pretty close to the ignition, right under the steering column, in the hks manual it says: red - 12 volt constant green - 12 volt ingnition blue - 12 volt accessory thats how I wired them up. I dont think I have ign and acc mixed up because if they were, my accessory would stay on till the timer timed out. one other weird thing I have noticed is the speed display is incorrect, ie at 50k/h its reading 25. so the timer thinks im going slower than I am, and thinking I am reving fairly high for my speed, and the auto timer goes up very quickly, not sure if its related but it may be another indication of a faulty or damaged unit.

yeah im going round to a mates to try his type 0, so ill see if my unit is faulty. Ive pretty much already eliminated the handbreak wire as a problem as with the handbreak on the timer counts down. just doesnt keep the car running, and with it off the timer just turns off.

it was bendable to some extent so strength was not an issue...

It depends on the build, I had a fiberglass silvia bonnet that weighed half of the carbon ones on the market.

yeah the handbrake wire is correct, with the handbrake off the timer just turns off. it doesnt countdown, so its a different problem