midnight

few of mine, using a shit lense

sold

alot of the mines ecus have been glued inside, so its difficult to remove the chips for reprogramming etc. you will get more perofrmance gains from a remap for your specific car, than a mines ecu, because they are, as mentioned already, just a remap. people only buy them and ask alot because of the brand name.

judging by the diagram. yellow is constant power, orange is 12v accessory, purple is illumination black is ground

still for sale PM sent: gHeTTo_GiRL

only sparco sprints are ADR, most of the others are FIA but not ADR

2way diff coilovers strutbraces or zorst

pm sent ill take the sparco wheel

bumpage

oh thursday night (friday morning) 4am, spotted a lone white r32 on forestway heading north.

up for sale is a driver side bride super low FG rail. it is suitable for S1*, R3*, C3*, A3*, so that means it fits silvias skylines ceffies laurel etc. this type is for mounting side mount fixed back bucket seats, like zetas, recaros, eastbears or sparcos, and means the seat can be mounted extremely low, lower than bottom mount rails. this rail is rare as rocking horse poo and they can be imported at around $330 so im asking $250 good condition, slides well specifications according to bride japan are: fits seat width 395mm ± 5mm side hole distance (front to back) ２８９mm ± 5mm (but this has had an extra hole drilled in it so it looks like it will fit 270- 305mm ) located northern beaches in sydney, but will post.

lol.. get me a "stupid peice of tin" and I will..

theoretically you could make all sorts of different shaped vents on an atmo bov, and could prob get some different sounds

GTST, my car did not come with a bov, and at the end of the day $20 of materials is still cheaper than $200 for a GFB or $400 for a trust type R. and what about if you were a machinist or mechanic on an apprentice wage? I myself bought a secondhand professor sheepdog BOV quite cheap, I stripped it down and completely refurbished it and am planning on modifing it for plumbback, so it looks like ill be in a workshop anyway. but yeah the point of the thread was to see if people had built their own, and judging by the replys, a few people have and have come up with decent results, take ylwgtr2, who built a bov and a wastegate, a good quality wastegate costs quite abit. When I was in highschool I used to spend most of my electronics class on the lathe, making up useless crap that I did not need, but I enjoyed being able to think up something, and have the ability to actually create it. so yeah if I'm ever in a workshop with time to kill, i'll probably make one.

id buy a set at $70 but not much more than that., id prob even pay up to $100 for a light up one. I know they're not worth that much but hey, gotta spend my money on something.

lol.. thanks rezz

ok well I was cleaning up around the house and found an old ring from an ex gf.. NFI what it says. I think it says something soppy about forever, which is quite ironic... so yeah if someone could translate it I would appreciate it very much

yeah all those reasons, its very satisfying to make things yourself. I didnt say I was going to but for instance, if you needed a good quality bov suitable for holding big psi, and you didnt have the money, it could be an option, looks like around $15-20 worth of metal and parts, and about 2-3hrs work if you had access to a workshop. oh and alot of cars dont come with BOVs and alot of the ones that do arent good for high boost.

ok well today I refurbished a BOV, dismantled the whole thing, checked for damage, cleaned, polished and greased the spring etc, and I noticed how simple BOVs are, so I was just wondering if anyone had attempted or made their own BOV?, seems like they could be made fairly easy, with a lathe and a few welds, and it wouldn't be too hard for a good quality job. cheers

mad, yeah I heard about this a while back... its so mind bogglingly unbeleivable... cant wait for it!

yeah use mold release wax, u can get it from fiberglass suppliers.

for carbon use epoxy based resin. cheaper poly resin even though its easier to work with tends to be abit yellow, and doesnt offer UV protection (wher as you can get epoxys with UV), so the carbon can fade after some time. Id suggest you practice first with fiber glass and a poly resin before you start on carbon as fiberglass cloth and mat are much cheaper, where as carbon costs quite alot, especially for twill weave.

for everyday driving just dont drive on boost for the last few minutes of your journey. I only use my timer after Ive been pounding it round the track...

do rb20s have consult? use consult to take a dump of the rom, and take/send it to a tuner or anyone who can remap and ask them to give you the details.

the most expensive part of the kit is the pump. a good 100psi shurflo pump will set you back a few hundred dollars easy. all the other stuff is realatively easy and cheap to obtain. one thing that people have to remember is not to just buy any old kit, you need to calculate you water to fuel ratios and run the correct nozzle to ensure you are running a safe system. but yeah decent systems are priced around the $400-$500 mark.