BNDAIR

Digging up an old thread but here is some additional info for any future readers... I found the CHEAPEST upgrade for R34 GT with 280mm front discs is to use S14/S15 200SX (Silvia) turbo calipers. The Silvia calipers are 4 pot type with Nissan written on the side. The mounting bolts and brake fluid lines bolt straight up so there is no need to change anything else. I got a pair of calipers at a wreckers for $100 and a new set of Bendix pads for $60. Obviously bigger discs and calipers are better, but this is a really easy and cheap upgrade anyone can do.

Damn, it's hard for me to remember if those came with my kit or where they belong... It looks like TAS Autosports kits come with those, but others, like the SuperPro ones do not. Hopefully you will find an obvious spot where they belong when you go to fit the kit... and if you do, please share for others on here :-)

My car has not had any gas in the A/C system since I brought it. I know my condenser and receiver/drier were cactus, so I replaced them. My understanding is that the TX valve can seize when it has been sitting around without gas (and with age), so I decided to replace it as a precaution before I have the system gassed up. I got it all out last night. Took about 40mins and a trained monkey could do it. In case anyone is interested, here is how you remove the A/C evaporator and TX valve on an R34: have the gas removed and do not use the A/C system with out gas in engine bay, remove the A/C metal pipes which go to the firewall behind the turbo (one 10mm and one 12mm) remove the passenger kick panel and glove box behind the glove box is the unit with the fan blower, cabin filters and A/C evaporator unplug the electrical plugs shown in green on the attached pic remove the 10mm nuts shown in red on the pic. The top one is hidden and a b!tch to get to, but a stubby ratchet and bit of mucking around will get it out ease it the whole unit down and out Now you can remove the screws and clips to pull apart the plastic cover and get to the A/C evaporator. The TX (Thermal Expansion) valve is the metal part on the front of the evaporator which connects to the pipes in the engine bay. Hope this helps someone out there.

I know I'm digging up an old thread, but has anyone removed/replaced their TX Valve on an R34? I have read that you have to remove the whole dash? Is this true? Or can you just get to it from behind the glovebox? I have removed my glovebox but can only see the the cabin filters. Any advice on getting TX valve out?

Anyone wrecking an R34 coupe? I am after couple of bits: 1 - the door rubber section which the drivers window rests on when its closed 2 - front indicator bulb holders (left and right) Happy to pay for post if you have these...

I just replaced my three ancillary belts with Gates ones, cost me $55 for all three. Bosch ones cost about the same. Not sure why you were quoted $220-250 unless it included the timing belt. The RB25 NEO belts are different to RB25 S1 engines. RB25 NEO belts: - 4PK860 - 4PK890 - 4PK910 RB25 belts: - 4PK855 - 4PK915 - 3PK855

Hi All, I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd share this info for anyone interested... R34 cabin filter part no: AY684-NS002 I ordered this from www.rhdjapan.com, cost about $28 for the two filters and $15 postage to Aus http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-air-purifier-and-carbon-filter-kit-ay684-anti-pollen-r34-bnr34.html

SOLD...

Pics of seat, interior trim, window trim and scuff plates. Also have centre and driver side vents (need a clean) but otherwise fine $30 Auto shifter surround (needs a really good clean) $20 Can post anything AusPost will take or you organise courier for bigger stuff and I will wrap and give to them.

Hi peeps, I am after an R34 couple drivers door rubber and boot rubber. If you have one or are parting out a R34, pls let me know. Thanks! Phil

I just brought the R34 glass and brakes from SSS Automotive (www.sssautomotive.com.au) for a great price and friendly service! Can't recommend them highly enough. If your looking parts, its worth giving them a call.

Drivers door for R32 Skyline coupe Factory red / burgundy red colour paint Complete door with - tinted glass - trim - mirror - winder Has three minor car park dings and very minor surface rust along bottom outer skin where paint has chipped away. Both very easy fix when repainting to suit your colour. $100... Cheap! Pickup Springwood NSW, or Richmond (about 20mins from Penrith)

Hi all, I'm getting rid of some interior parts to suit Nissan Skyline R34 2 door coupe All parts needs clean as its been sitting around in the garage Rear seats - fair condition, ciggie burn in right side $50 Rear side trim - passenger side has crack near window, easy fix with bit of plastic welding, otherwise good condition $40 for both sides Rear opera and over front door plastic trim - one clip missing in each front part but rest in good condition $30 for both sides (all 4 pieces) Door scuff plates - passenger has crack, driver in good condition $20 for both Boot lid trim $10 Take the lot for $100 firm The parts aren't perfect which is reflected in the price, but overall they are very very useable. Pickup NSW Springwood 2777 or Richmond 2795 or I can wrap but you must organise and pay for courier. Photos at http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/springwood/other-parts-accessories/nissan-skyline-r34-seats-and-interior-trim/1099514446

Hi all, I am looking to buy R34 couple rear opera glass (both sides) and rear windscreen. Need the dark privacy type. Plus some other random parts eg drivers door rubber, interior plastic mirror trim, passenger elec window switch and surround, manual gear stick surround, front driver brake caliper If anyone has any of these or is wrecking a 34 coupe in Western Sydney, Penrith, Blue Mountains, let me know. Am happy to pick up. Cheers Phil

Re-posting with images Sorry guys n gals, I had images in my original article, but they were not visible once it was posted to the forum. Hopefully they will work this time... Nissan made two different versions of HICAS, the original HICAS (R32/S13) which used hydraulic fluid to control the rear steering and Super HICAS (R33/R34/S14/some S15) which used electric motors to control the rear steering. This guide is for removing the hydraulic HICAS system including all hydraulic components and lines from an R32 Skyline (I presume it would be similar on an S13 Silvia) and installing a HICAS Eliminator kit. HICAS Removal Kits The two most common HICAS removal kits are the HICAS Lock Bar and the HICAS Eliminator. The HICAS Lock Bar kit is a simple bar which replaces the HICAS hydraulic steering unit which runs horizontally behind the diff. This kit keeps the existing factory rear tie rods (aka steering arms) and ball joints on the wheel hub assembly. This kit is simpler to install and cheaper to buy (about $100). The HICAS Eliminator kit allows you to removes the HICAS hydraulic steering unit and also replaces the factory tie rods and ball joints. This kit is more a more involved installation which requires the ball joints to be removed from the back of the wheel hub assembly. This kit is also more expensive (approx. $250-400). Whichever kit you choose to install, you will need to loop the hydraulic lines that control the HICAS unit. In this guide I will remove the lines and loop them together in the engine bay as well as remove all of the components of the HICAS system. This way we can remove as much of the unused parts and weight from the car. I have chosen to install the Eliminator kit for a number of reasons: The factory tie rods are relatively small and have been known to break under load or if not maintained (see pic below). If this happens your rear wheel will turn sharply and rapidly, causing potentially bad things to happen. The ball joints at the ends of each tie rod are removed and replaced with new adjustable bars. These ball joints are another weak point and over time will wear out as ball joints do. Again, if they fail at speed, you are in trouble. Before we begin Firstly a word of warning; this information should be taken as advice only. This is a guide and I am sure there are other ways of doing this, so feel free to add anything which I have missed or if there is a different/better way to do it. Secondly, and more importantly, if you cannot get the rear ball joints out while the rear hub is on the car, you will need to remove the entire hub from the car and have them pressed out. If this is the case you will need a 36mm socket to undo the rear drive shafts then you will need to remove the hub and take it to a mechanic or mate’s place that has a press. This will obviously involve a lot more work. Make sure you don’t do anything you cannot reverse until you have these ball joints out! What you will need Tools: Good socket and spanner set (ratchet spanners are always handy) Screwdrivers Car jack and stands Hacksaw or small angle grinder Ball joint splitter Bucket/pans/rags to catch the power steering fluid Parts: HICAS Eliminator kit 50cm of 10mm or 3/8” transmission cooler hose 2 hose claps to suit the hose 1L power steering fluid Step 1: Removing the hydraulics Jack up the rear end of the car, remove the wheels and make sure you have car stands to support the car. Do not rely on a jack to support it. Remove the split pin and undo the nut from the ball joint at the rear end of each tie rod. These are located behind the bottom shock absorber mount and brake disc rotor on each side. Then use a ball joint splitter (or your preferred method) to remove the tie rod arm from the ball joint. Remove the ball joints from the hub assembly before going any further. The ball joint has a circlip on the on the back which needs to be removed and then you need to press the ball joint out. Getting the ball joint out is a PITA as it will be in there tight. You can try using a G-clamp and follow the instructions at http://youtu.be/IVluVuiFnlw Once it is removed your hub should look like this: Now it’s time to start removing the hydraulic lines. Go to the HICAS steering unit which is the horizontal part behind the diff, and loosen the two 19mm bolts holding it in place. Do not remove them completely; they provide support while you undo the mounting points for the hydraulic lines. Follow the two main lines coming from the top of the steering unit and remove all of the mounting brackets from the sub-frame (aka diff cradle) using a 10mm ratchet spanner or socket. Mounted to the chassis rail in front of the rear sub frame is the HICAS cut off valve (pictured below). Disconnect the brown clip which runs the wiring from it up to the HICAS computer in the boot. Then remove the entire valve from the chassis by undoing the 10mm and 12mm bolts that hold it in place. Follow the two hydraulic lines which run forward along the chassis rail and remove both of them from all the mounting brackets until you get to the solenoid just behind the back of the engine bay. At this point you will need to break the hydraulic seal on the lines, so have a container ready to catch any fluid which leaks out. Disconnect the two lines from the back of this solenoid and drain as much fluid as you can to minimise spillage when you remove the lines from the car. This fluid is corrosive so try not to get it on your car’s paint. Now go back to the HICAS steering unit behind the diff and remove the two 19mm bolts which were loosened earlier. Now the entire system will drop from the car and you will be able to pull it out from underneath the rear of the car. Step 2: Installing the HICAS Eliminator Kit Installation of the kit is relatively simple. Firstly put in the new bushes which go where the rear tie rod ball joints once were. These can be quite tight to get all the way through so I used a bit of dishwashing detergent to help get them in. Once the bush is in place, push in the metal sleeve through the middle and it should look something like this: Now bolt the mounting bracket which comes with the HICAS Eliminator Kit to the diff cradle. This bracket mounts to the sub-frame using the 19mm bolt hole which previously held the original HICAS steering unit. And a second bolt runs through the diff cradle and then through the joint at the inside end of the toe rod. A third bolt runs through the outer end of the toe rod and through the new bush behind the shock absorber. Repeat this on the other side. You can undo the exhaust rubber mounts and lower the exhaust to get better access on that site. Make sure everything is tight and now you can put the rear end of the car back on the ground and raise the front. Step 3: Looping the hydraulic lines This part has much discussion and uncertainty. Some people simply block the hydraulic lines however your power steering pump has a section at the rear of it which is designed to push fluid into the HICAS system. If you block the lines, it will put extra stress on your power steering pump and may lead to premature failure. The best solution is to loop the lines together and bypass all the HICAS parts. Contrary to much information I have read online, you will only need to join low pressure lines together which can be done using standard transmission cooler hose and clamps. Also, the way the lines are looped in this guide will keep the power steering cooling system intact. Below is a picture of the HICAS pump. It is bolted to the engine bay behind the battery and under the intake manifold. This entire unit will be removed and the line leading to it will be bypassed back to the power steering pump. Start by undoing the hose clamp and remove the short hose underneath the back of the battery which leads to the HICAS pump. Now we need to cut the return line to create the loop for the power steering fluid. Under the car, locate the hydraulic line pictured below (this photo was taken from the front of the car, looking back). It is on the driver’s side in front of the engine cross member and next to the oil sump plug. This line runs from the back of the power steering pump, down the radiator support, along the engine cross member and up to the HICAS pump. Double check you have the right one! Use a small angle grinder or hacksaw to cut the line just after the connection. Then attach your 10mm transmission cooler hose to it and feed it up through the engine bay. Below is a before and after picture of mine. Get back in the engine bay from above then cut the your new hose to length and connect the top end to the metal line below the battery, which originally had the short hose leading to your HICAS pump. Clean up any excess power steering fluid which was spilt and your bypass loop is now done. The back section of your power steering pump will now only push fluid around the transmission cooler and back. Below is a photo of the bypass loop from start to finish. This photo was taken from above the engine looking down. It should be around 40-50cm of hose leading from underneath the back of the battery to near the engine cross member. To finish, you need to remove the HICAS pump. Undo all the bolts holding the pump to the engine bay. This will take a bit of mucking about as they are in a tight spot. I had to loosen the fuel filter mount to get them out. Then follow the two lines down the engine bay, undoing all the mounts holding them to the car. Eventually you will get to the solenoid below the car where you removed the two lines leading to the back. Remove this remaining solenoid and your HICAS hardware removal is done. Step 4: Removing the HICAS warning light Now that the HICAS unit has been removed, the HICAS warning light on your dash will turn on. Many people just remove the bulb from the dash. This will work however you will not get a warning light if your power steering fluid gets low. I have also read some people disconnect or remove the HICAS computer altogether, but this may lead to loss of power steering. The easiest way to fix this is to simply unplug the wire which sends the signal from the HICAS computer to your dash. To do this go to the boot and locate the HICAS computer, it is mounted under the rear parcel shelf to the right of centre, and unplug the smaller of the two harnesses located towards the centre of the car (see pic below). Step 5: Finishing the job Now top up the power steering fluid reservoir (do not put the cap on yet) and start the car. It will most likely make noises from the power steering unit because there is air in the system. Turn wheel from side to side while someone watches the fluid level and keeps it topped up if necessary. Continue doing this until the noise is gone then replace the cap. Last but not least, get a rear wheel alignment done from your local tyre place. It should cost you around $50 for them to do the job and is well worth the peace of mind knowing your wheels are pointing in the right direction and not wearing out your tyres prematurely. I have also heard that removing the HICAS may be defected in some states/territories if it does not have an engineer’s report because it is a modification to the steering system. I am not 100% sure if this is true but thought it was worth mentioning.

I know there is a lot of debate about Nissan’s HICAS rear wheel steering system and I do not want to start an argument on whether to remove HICAS or not, how good/bad it is etc. I am just trying to put together detailed information about HICAS and a how-to guide which may help others out there who are looking remove it from their R32. Nissan made two different versions of HICAS, the original HICAS (R32/S13) which used hydraulic fluid to control the rear steering and Super HICAS (R33/R34/S14/some S15) which used electric motors to control the rear steering. This guide is for removing the hydraulic HICAS system including all hydraulic components and lines from an R32 Skyline (I presume it would be similar on an S13 Silvia) and installing a HICAS Eliminator kit. HICAS Removal Kits The two most common HICAS removal kits are the HICAS Lock Bar and the HICAS Eliminator. The HICAS Lock Bar kit is a simple bar which replaces the HICAS hydraulic steering unit which runs horizontally behind the diff. This kit keeps the existing factory rear tie rods (aka steering arms) and ball joints on the wheel hub assembly. This kit is simpler to install and cheaper to buy (about $100). The HICAS Eliminator kit allows you to removes the HICAS hydraulic steering unit and also replaces the factory tie rods and ball joints. This kit is more a more involved installation which requires the ball joints to be removed from the back of the wheel hub assembly. This kit is also more expensive (approx. $250-400). Whichever kit you choose to install, you will need to loop the hydraulic lines that control the HICAS unit. In this guide I will remove the lines and loop them together in the engine bay as well as remove all of the components of the HICAS system. This way we can remove as much of the unused parts and weight from the car. I have chosen to install the Eliminator kit for a number of reasons: The factory tie rods are relatively small and have been known to break under load or if not maintained (see pic below). If this happens your rear wheel will turn sharply and rapidly, causing potentially bad things to happen. The ball joints at the ends of each tie rod are removed and replaced with new adjustable bars. These ball joints are another weak point and over time will wear out as ball joints do. Again, if they fail at speed, you are in trouble. Before we begin Firstly a word of warning; this information should be taken as advice only. This is a guide and I am sure there are other ways of doing this, so feel free to add anything which I have missed or if there is a different/better way to do it. Secondly, and more importantly, if you cannot get the rear ball joints out while the rear hub is on the car, you will need to remove the entire hub from the car and have them pressed out. If this is the case you will need a 36mm socket to undo the rear drive shafts then you will need to remove the hub and take it to a mechanic or mate’s place that has a press. This will obviously involve a lot more work. Make sure you don’t do anything you cannot reverse until you have these ball joints out! What you will need Tools: Good socket and spanner set (ratchet spanners are always handy) Screwdrivers Car jack and stands Hacksaw or small angle grinder Ball joint splitter Bucket/pans/rags to catch the power steering fluid Parts: HICAS Eliminator kit 50cm of 10mm or 3/8” transmission cooler hose 2 hose claps to suit the hose 1L power steering fluid Step 1: Removing the hydraulics Jack up the rear end of the car, remove the wheels and make sure you have car stands to support the car. Do not rely on a jack to support it. Remove the split pin and undo the nut from the ball joint at the rear end of each tie rod. These are located behind the shock absorber and brake disc rotor on each side. Then use a ball joint splitter (or your preferred method) to remove the tie rod arm from the ball joint. Now remove the ball joints from the hub assembly before going any further. The ball joint has a circlip on the on the back which needs to be removed and then you need to press the ball joint out. Getting the ball joint out is a PITA as it will be in there tight. You can try using a G-clamp and follow the instructions at http://youtu.be/IVluVuiFnlw Once it is removed your hub should look like this: Now it’s time to start removing the hydraulic lines. Go to the HICAS steering unit which is the horizontal part behind the diff, and loosen the two 19mm bolts holding it in place. Do not remove them completely; they provide support while you undo the mounting points for the hydraulic lines. Follow the two main lines coming from the top of the steering unit and remove all of the mounting brackets from the sub-frame (aka diff cradle) using a 10mm ratchet spanner or socket. Mounted to the chassis rail in front of the rear sub frame is the HICAS cut off valve (pictured below). Disconnect the brown clip which runs the wiring from it up to the HICAS computer in the boot. Then remove the entire valve from the chassis by undoing the 10mm and 12mm bolts that hold it in place. Follow the two hydraulic lines which run forward along the chassis rail and remove both of them from all the mounting brackets until you get to the solenoid just behind the back of the engine bay. At this point you will need to break the hydraulic seal on the lines, so have a container ready to catch any fluid which leaks out. Disconnect the two lines from the back of this solenoid and drain as much fluid as you can to minimise spillage when you remove the lines from the car. This fluid is corrosive so try not to get it on your car’s paint. Now go back to the HICAS steering unit behind the diff and remove the two 19mm bolts which were loosened earlier. Now the entire system will drop from the car and you will be able to pull it out from underneath the rear of the car. Step 2: Installing the HICAS Eliminator Kit Installation of the kit is relatively simple. Firstly put in the new bushes which go where the rear tie rod ball joints once were. These can be quite tight to get all the way through so I used a bit of dishwashing detergent to help get them in. Once the bush is in place, push in the metal sleeve through the middle and it should look something like this: Now bolt the mounting bracket which comes with the HICAS Eliminator Kit to the diff cradle. This bracket mounts to the sub-frame using the 19mm bolt hole which previously held the original HICAS steering unit. And a second bolt runs through the diff cradle and then through the joint at the inside end of the toe rod. A third bolt runs through the outer end of the toe rod and through the new bush behind the shock absorber. Repeat this on the other side. You can undo the exhaust rubber mounts and lower the exhaust to get better access on that site. Make sure everything is tight and now you can put the rear end of the car back on the ground and raise the front. Step 3: Looping the hydraulic lines This part has much discussion and uncertainty. Some people simply block the hydraulic lines however your power steering pump has a section at the rear of it which is designed to push fluid into the HICAS system. If you block the lines, it will put extra stress on your power steering pump and may lead to premature failure. The best solution is to loop the lines together and bypass all the HICAS parts. Contrary to much information I have read online, you will only need to join low pressure lines together which can be done using standard transmission cooler hose and clamps. Also, the way the lines are looped in this guide will keep the power steering cooling system intact. Below is a picture of the HICAS pump. It is bolted to the engine bay behind the battery and under the intake manifold. This entire unit will be removed and the line leading to it will be bypassed back to the power steering pump. Start by undoing the hose clamp and remove the short hose underneath the back of the battery which leads to the HICAS pump. Now we need to cut the return line to create the loop for the power steering fluid. Under the car, locate the hydraulic line pictured below (this photo was taken from the front of the car, looking back). It is on the driver’s side in front of the engine cross member and next to the oil sump plug. This line runs from the back of the power steering pump, down the radiator support, along the engine cross member and up to the HICAS pump. Double check you have the right one! Use a small angle grinder or hacksaw to cut the line just after the connection. Then attach your 10mm transmission cooler hose to it and feed it up through the engine bay. Below is a before and after picture of mine. Get back in the engine bay from above then cut the your new hose to length and connect the top end to the metal line below the battery, which originally had the short hose leading to your HICAS pump. Clean up any excess power steering fluid which was spilt and your bypass loop is now done. The back section of your power steering pump will now only push fluid around the transmission cooler and back. Below is a photo of the bypass loop from start to finish. This photo was taken from above the engine looking down. It should be around 40-50cm of hose leading from underneath the back of the battery to near the engine cross member. To finish, you need to remove the HICAS pump. Undo all the bolts holding the pump to the engine bay. This will take a bit of mucking about as they are in a tight spot. I had to loosen the fuel filter mount to get them out. Then follow the two lines down the engine bay, undoing all the mounts holding them to the car. Eventually you will get to the solenoid below the car where you removed the two lines leading to the back. Remove this remaining solenoid and your HICAS hardware removal is done. Step 4: Removing the HICAS warning light Now that the HICAS unit has been removed, the HICAS warning light on your dash will turn on. Many people just remove the bulb from the dash. This will work however you will not get a warning light if your power steering fluid gets low. I have also read some people disconnect or remove the HICAS computer altogether, but this may lead to loss of power steering. The easiest way to fix this is to simply unplug the wire which sends the signal from the HICAS computer to your dash. To do this go to the boot and locate the HICAS computer, it is mounted under the rear parcel shelf to the right of centre, and unplug the smaller of the two harnesses located towards the centre of the car (see pic below). Step 5: Finishing the job Now top up the power steering fluid reservoir (do not put the cap on yet) and start the car. It will most likely make noises from the power steering unit because there is air in the system. Turn wheel from side to side while someone watches the fluid level and keeps it topped up if necessary. Continue doing this until the noise is gone then replace the cap. Last but not least, get a rear wheel alignment done from your local tyre place. It should cost you around $50 for them to do the job and is well worth the peace of mind knowing your wheels are pointing in the right direction and not wearing out your tyres prematurely. I have also heard that removing the HICAS may be defected in some states/territories if it does not have an engineer’s report because it is a modification to the steering system. I am not 100% sure if this is true but thought it was worth mentioning.

I was changing my wipers on the weekend and I know this topic is a bit old but the info is still relevant so I thought I would share the blade sizes for some of our favorite Nissans in case anyone needs them: 180SX S13 Driver - 500mm (20") Passenger - 500mm (20") 200SX S14/S15 Driver - 500mm (20") Passenger - 500mm (20") 350Z Z33 Driver - 500mm (20") Passenger - 450mm (18") 370Z Z34 Driver - 525mm (21") Passenger - 475mm (19") Pulsar N14/15 Driver - 500mm (20") Passenger - 450mm (18") Pulsar N16 Driver - 550mm (22") Passenger - 400mm (16") Skyline R32/R33/R34 Driver - 500mm (20") Passenger - 450mm (18") Skyline R35 Driver - 550mm (22") Passenger - 475mm (19") Skyline V35 Driver - 600mm (24") Passenger - 425mm (17")

Thanks for the tips! I think I must have evoked some sort of karma when I mentioned replacing the fiberglass bumper with a genuine one in my earlier post. Just a week after writing it, a bloke took out the front bumper with his trailer while my car was parked at the mechanics. Here is the result... The damage: bent intercooler and piping, broken indicator and of course the bumper. I think it is time for front larger mount cooler and that genuine bumper...

Fiberglass Bumper Repair I have found lots of good info on this website and I am posting this to give something back to the community. I have not seen any tutorials on repairing a fiberglass bumpers on this site (if there are any, sorry for reposting) and since I recently did this, I thought I would post my experience. Hopefully some out there will find this information useful. Overview: Like many others out there, my Skyline has a fiberglass front bumper (which will be replaced with a genuine plastic one as soon as I can save up the money and find one). Until then I have I have a cracked, damaged, piece of $hit letting down the look of my car. So, I have decided to repair the fiberglass bumper and extend its life. I am no expert and I have never done this before so this is a guide only, but anyone with any practical skills can have a go at this. What you will need: Die grinder ($40 el-cheapo will do) Fiberglass repair kit (about $30) Body filler (about $8-10 if you don’t already have some) Sand paper (wet-n-dry about $1 per sheet) Paint ($30-50 depending on what type) Beer (could get expensive here depending on individual) Step 1: Remove the bumper If you are not confident, take lots of photos of the bumper, its mounting points and screws before you take it apart. This way you have a reference in case you forget how to put it back together again. My bumper was only held on by a couple of screws near the wheels and some behind the number plate. Other bumpers may also have screws under the front corners and various other places. Remove all the screws and slide the bumper forward. Visually check around your bumper and don’t pull too hard on it until you are sure you have all the screws removed. Step 2: Fiberglass Repair You will need a die grinder; a cheap $40 one from your local auto part supplier or hardware shop will do the trick if you don’t have one. Use a relatively flat grinding disc and grind away all the loose edges. Don’t be scared at this point, all the loose stuff needs to be gone. You will then need to grind a groove along the cracks. Also grind all dirt off the area around the back of the cracks (on the inside of the bumper) so the resin has a nice clean surface to adhere to. I also sanded out any smaller cracks in the paint using fine wet-n-dry sandpaper. I had to do some major work around one of the front vents, so I used some straps to hold everything in place. This helped to align everything and reduce movement while the resin is applied and curing. Get your Fiberglass Repair Kit out and read the instructions carefully. These kits contain the fiberglass resin, hardener, glass matting and applicators. Get the matting and cut it to size for each crack. It should overlap the crack by 10-20mm on all sides. This has to be done on the inside of the bumper, so it is not visible once the bumper is back on the car. Mix the resin and hardener as per instructions on the pack and apply it over the matting using applicator. I only mixed small amount and did 1-2 cracks at a time. If you mix up too much, the resin will harden before you finish all the repairs. I used a Paddle Pop stick to get the resin over the matting then used the brush provided in the repair kit to smooth it all out. Once the matting is wet with resin it remains in place and this part of the process is easier than I expected. Once the repairs were done from the back, I used some resin and matting to fill in any large grooves and craters from the front. Make sure you don’t put too much on and have high spots as once it has cured, it will be a lot of work to sand back. Better to be low and fill the remainder with auto body filler later. My bumper has a fairly thin and flimsy section across the bottom of the front air dam, so I took an old piece of metal and fiberglassed it as bracing across the bottom of this part. I also fiberglassed metal washers behind the screw holes; this helps to reinforce these points as they are under most stress and most likely to crack. While everything was off the car, I also added some mesh to the inside of the air intakes. I didn’t want to use screws to hold it on because they are visible from the outside, so I decided to fiberglass it on. To do this, I cut the mesh to shape, bent it and fiberglassed it on. I used the matting and pushed it through the mesh to make sure it was held on as securely as possible. Now wait for the resin to cure. Don't forget to keep yourself lubricated... Step 3: Painting Sand all the repairs until they are smooth and use auto body filler on any low spots. Then give the whole bumper a final sand so it is ready for paint. This isn’t a painting tutorial so I won’t go into the details here. I sprayed it with factory white base and clear 2 pak paint. The picture below is after two coats of white, prior to the final clear being applied. While the bumper was off, I also drilled new mounting points for the number plate because they were too low and the number plate hung over the air dam and had a gap above it. Mounting it 30mm higher made a world of difference to the look. The finished repair looks heaps better than I could have imagined. The only thing I would have done differently would be to paint the bumper before putting the mesh on. This would have saved me masking it up, but overall I have happy with the result of just one day’s work.

mate, do you still have the coil packs? do you know how old they are and approx Km's on them?