rmahnovetsky

I would also like to see if my AFM has a problem. I have a bit of an idle problem and would like to know if it is the AFM or not (I have tried everything to much to list). We can swap AFM for a week if you like? I just want to know if it is the AFM playing up in hot weather.

Over a year later I managed to get back down the willowbank. Time to try and crack into the 12 sec. This time I have fottage of me going down the track. I'll post it when I edit the film. So my mods so far for this run. hybrid intercooler kit SAFC CAI Bosch 040 Brand new el cheapo rear tyres $121 sav. 12 psi short shifter full exhaust with split dump(My design). rear type psi: 30 Results: best time was 13.48 with 172 km/h 60ft was 2.1 Still .48 off getting into the 12s.. Maybe a lightened flywheel will get me in or some decent tyres. My mate went down on his R6 first time going down the trac he got a 12.02 at 202 km/h

I haven't conducted any sort of business for atleast 6 months. So I'm guesing I'm a private seller. I only have one of these to sell not to make money on, but to move it out of my garage. I found it doing a bit of spring cleaning.. um winter cleaning..

aluminum highly polished not chromed piping kit for sale. 2.5" piping comes will all brackets and pipes. Selling for $200... perfect condition PM for more pictures or details

My thoughts would be because you had a 3.5 inch dump pipe before is the reason why you didn't get as much gain as the 3" dump pipes. The 3 inch being a little more restrictive thus it would cause more turbulence when the gases colide. The 3.5 being bigger won't cause as much turbulence. If someone had a 4 of 5 inch dump probably won't notice a difference at all. It all about removing the turbulence behind the turbo. Anyone else can comment on this theory? seems ligical to me

I felt a noticable difference with my split dump and so have others. So it seems you would have a problem somewhere else down the line. Possibly the rest of your exhaust and cat is std or maybe your in RR. The split definitely works and you should atleast notice a difference after 6.0k....

I didn't measure it. But it is nearly as long as the dump. I wanted to make it as long as possible to keep the turbulence as far away from the turbo as possible. Boost holds quite well now too.

I'll take a pic for you when I take it off again to paint it.

in the 13s not a 13

I wish I bought a 3" split from the start. Oh well I got to practically see the difference between the two. When I went down the quarter I got a 14.9 on my stock car. With stock boost and the full 3" exhaust with split dump it should be in the 13 easily . I ran a a 14.051 with the original 3" exhaust and 11 psi. And this feeels noticably faster.

I've run 15 psi just once with the stock turbo and a bigger fuel pump (040) and hybrid cooler...No RR just nice and harder acceleration.. But I wouldn't do it again for safety reasons. Most people dont go past 12 psi. I know someone who run 13 psi without a problem but he only drags, turbo is not on for more than 13 sec at a time.

I have been reading so much about the split dump pipe and how they are superior to the 3" dump pipe. Statements like "they reduce turbulence when you are on boost, therefore reducing backpressure", "10kw gain", "should notice a big difference in the top end of the rev range". These statements and theories behind it sold me. So I though I would give split dump pipe a go. Since I already had a 3" dump, I decided my cheapest option would be to modify it to a split. The idea behind my design would be to keep the wastegate and turbine gases seperate for as far as possible. This would reduce as much turbulence as possible on the turbo. I made a seperator in the recess of the turbo which keep the gases seperator through to the dump. The split pipe then joined just before the cat. See my pics for the mod results: First design suxed: My seperator was to thin (1.4 mil) and the wastegate gases bent the metal and my car actually went worse. Second design: I fixed the seperator with 4 mil metal. Now for the real results: The origianal 3" dump used to drop off acceration at about 6.5 k. The new dump did not, it actually increased in acceration. Very nice. I noticed better acceration throughout the full on boost range. But mostly after 6K, this showed the biggest gains. FYI: I was using stock boost i.e. no bleeder. I was hitting about 9.5 psi 3rd gear seemed to be the real winner hear. I noticed a really Big difference in acceration in 3rd gear. usually when I drag a car if they accerate the same as me in 2nd then my third is slighty better. But not now 3rd really pulls now. I got to test this out on a maloo ute, and a silvia. Both where slighty slower than my skyline in 1st and 2 but 3 I pulled away very quickly. 3 cars length in that gear alone. I reckon without the split maybe 1 car length if lucky... On stock boost (9.5) it feels like it accerates quicker than when I had 11 psi with the original 3" pipe. Split dump pipes rock!!!!

yeah, I noticed that too. cheers.. Well atleast I know it normal now..

thats makes sense cheers..

I noticed that my idle will drop if I take out the dip stick. This seems strange to me. Has anyone else noticed this? Or could someone explain why this could happen? cheers.

s13 / 180sx (sr20) kits available with/without cooler.. $310 for the piping kit add 20 to wa, sa and tas $500 with cooler add 30 to wa, tas, sa

argh! I just flushed the tank 7 times - shake the car take fuel out and filter the fuel back in. After 40 ks and a top up of fuel the pump is noisy again .... I think the petrol station down the road has bad fuel.. I dont think I can take the take out as it looks crammed under the diff.. Oh well another flush tomorrow.. what am I doing posting! I should be drunk!!!

I found the problem... Crap in the fuel.. It is my worst nightmare going back into the tank - headaches and start seeing stuff .. I took the pump out and noticed heaps of black crap on the filter.. I cleaned it up and it was soundless for 20 ks of driving.. So I used the old pump without a filter and draind and put back the fuel with the 040, 7 times - until no crap was found in the fuel. It seems to be ok now. When I installed the 040 I also used the original filter and when I took the 040 pump out of the tank I found the black stuff stuck in the 040 filter - it was getting through the original filter. So the 040 filter is finer than the old filter thus picking up more crap before the filter in the engine bay.. I think maybe I got a bad batch or the heat has cleaned the tank off and left floaties..

I also don't have the carbon canister. Does this help with fuel vapor on a hot day? Im just wonder if the fuel is getting hot and Im getting the start of "vapor lock".. Im probably way off here..

tank was 1/4 full... Busky2k: you find the pump noisy on hot days only? usually I can't hear it.. Driver: brand new pump. I took the pump out bench tested it.. I noticed the pump to be really quite..mm strange.. The only time I could get the pump to be noisey was when it was starving for fuel. To do this I stood the 040 upright with the suck side on the floor - then it was noisy.. Which was making the same sound could I could hear in cabin.. the pump is high enough from the bottom of the tank. So the only thing I could think of is maybe pressure is not being release from the tank properly on hot days and the pump is struggling to pump the fuel out.. any ideas?

I was driving today in hot traffic for about 45 mins. After it I noticed reving after 4500 my motor was breaking down.. Felt like it was not gettting fuel.. Might give you guys a clue to what it could be ..

I read it was in the boot near the boot latch driver side.. I found that but it looked like a relay with a relay picture on it.. I removed it to check it, but made no difference. MAybe it is there for a different model skyline.

Does anyone know where the FPCM is located in the R33 GTS-t.. any direction will be appreciated.

Man I also have an idling problem - for 1.5 yrs still haven't solved it. Ive been through all the basics, these might help you, hasn't helped me .. like Check all electrical contacts. squirt wd40 on all electrical contacts.. Could be the fuel presure regulator - do a swap . clean aac valve. Swap with friend clean, resolder afm check for leaks - squirt carby clean on the hoses if the idle drops bingo. Soapy water should also do the trick but you will see bubbles instead. make sure all sensors are working to spec. Do a search sould find what the sensors should read . o2 sensors could be faulty. BOV. I put a open atmo BOV and really screw my idle.. Took it off.. clean the injectors.. If you can take then out and get it ultrasonic cleaned. check for fault codes good luck

The last couple of days have been really hot 30deg +.. And I have noticed my 040 intank pump is a noisier than usual. It is like it is cavitating or the pump is out of the fuel constantly.. Quite loud.. Before the last couple of day I could barely hear it. I also have a inline fuel pressure guage on the pump side. What I noticed is the guage oscillating +- .1 psi .. To my it seems like the fuel is like froth from all the heat and driving around. It is the only thing that make sense to me.. It also makes my idle real bad Anyone has any ideas? am I right by the froth idea? if so how to stop it.