rmahnovetsky

RadiuM: Yours will be sent on monday.. I missed the friday run argh!! ...

onBOOST247: No the piping does no move around because it is locked in via the hole you make on the driver side and the piping it joins into on the other. Radiator hose , yes it in close but nothing to worry about. I had to cut the fan blade a little bit off the edges. Motor temp is still the same.

Malpassi Fuel Regulator thats what he used finally remembered!

yeah I just saw you graphs I notice the difference when you got the split dump and the GTR fuel pump. The big drop off turned into flat... Well can't argue with that!!

Cubes: the timing throught the rpm is constantly being changed by the CAS right? so to move the CAS all the way to the right would be a stupid thing to do? Is this going to reduce the retard adjustment therefore these cell points will be up to sh*t. Or even bring the timing before 10deg.

Top explaination!!! You deserve a purple heart for that one I didn't relise the ignition timing values where that high during the light loads... I alway thought the timing increases with the rpm.. Now I know why they retard the timing in this case.. cheers

cool retard it is... So he would retard it for the purpose to trick the ECU. I dot really get this. If my R33 pings I increase the amount of fuel on my SAFC. det is a ratio of heat, octane, timing. So if I now have more fuel pressure I have more fuel thus I can advance the timming. Now in the R33 we are trying to bypass the boost cut. I understand by increasing the fuel pressure we can decrease the air fuel ratio to trick the ecu as it thinks it is running from a stock fuel pump. But now the ignition should be retarded, wont that decrease performance - maybe this has to be retarded to match the ecu, ah I'm confused with this bit.

OK can see you point of view two gases colliding into each other right at the back of the turbo causing back pressure. At your set psi some will go through the turbine, some wil go through the wastegate then meet up at the end on the turbo to cause turbulence and create back pressure. So the back presssure from the turbulence will restrict the turbo from flowing as well as it could. ON a stock setup I guess this will increase the psi slightly. IF you had a digital boost controller then the twin pipe will not really benefit? mmm but I guess the more back pressure there is the hotter the turbo gets and more the more chance of the motor detenating thus reducing timming / increase fuel and less kw? this is what you mean the pics on the home page of this website. To ensure they dont collide http://www.cesracing.com.au/

thanks guys for you input.. After a little research on the split dump pipe I found the split works well to spool up the turbo but for top end nothing really noticable. I found this on the MRT site. http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/doc...20Middleton.pdf Sydneykid is right the VL is lighter found that somewhere too. I forgot to mention he has a rollcage in there too. I doubt it would be 150 kg to compare apples with apples. Yeah he did raise the fuel pressure but using a device that sits on the return fuel line and it is adjustable. The original valve that is connected on the return line is replaced which lies on the side on the engine bay next to the fuel filter. Thats how he adjusted it. Yeah thats probably his little trick to bypass the ecu protection!!! Nice little trick. I also remember him telling me the VL has 250 horses at the wheels. Also what I forgot to mention is he said he turned the CAS all the way to the right. I he was facing the car when he said that. I believe that is advancing as far as it would go? somehow this overrides the computer to stop it from pulling back the timming. There was no computer to adjust it it was all adjusted by the device he added in the return line. I has seen some guys on the furums running 25, 30 deg advance. I would like to know how much difference this makes compared to stock timing. They would have had to increase the full pressure alot to stop the car from pinging.

OK split dump pipe it is... The results from the link are amazing... I really didn't think the split dump could make that much of a difference compared to a normal 3" dump pipe. But it is logical in your explaination. Mod noted! What about the other mod he has that I don't. "Gota watch the rb25det flat spot. To over come this you need higher fuel pressure so use the moly thing. Advance the CAS to full timming, apparently this over rides the knock sensor to stop it from retarding and it wont ping because you have increased the fuel pressure." .. This is what gave him the most gains on the dyno..

no it doesn't go back into the intake it plumbs in just before the cat at the bottom of the dump pipe. Apparently it controls the waste gate a little better to hole boost.. V8s there made for towing not racing

Hey Guys The other day I had a drag against my friend v8 supercharged VT runing at 8psi. To put it bluntly I was flogged. Off the mark up to 130klms/hr I was about 1.5 secs behind him. Well thats how long it took me to get to where he was. 80klms/hr launch to 130 klm/hr he would have beaten me buy a good 3-4 car lengths. At this stage I was not really worried as I haven't spent much in mods. But later that night he raced a vl with an rb25det. This is the work it had done to it Hybid 600x300x76 cooler with custom piping 2.5" 3 inch exhaust plumb back screamer pipe 13 psi I think bigger fuel pump ah cant think of the name moly something. It adjusts the fuel pressure it goes in the return line. So basically nothing really done to it. Pretty much the same as what I have done to my car except for the screamer the moly thing, fuel pump and I was running 10 psi. The end result was the V8 just beat him. From 80k to 130k the v8 was only a 1/4 car ahead. It turned out that I know the mechanic who tuned the car for the VL. So I asked how the hell can the vl basically flog my car. this is what he told me. With a plumb back screamer they found that it held boost really well with a t piece. Gota watch the rb25det flat spot. To over come this you need higher fuel pressure so use the moly thing. Advance the CAS to full timming, apparently this over rides the knock sensor and it wont ping because you have increased the fuel pressure. Thats it. Now I just need some clarification on this. How far are we talking here 25-30 deg advance on full CAS! is this good? Does it override the knock sensor so it won't play silly buggers with the computer and pull out the timming? This tunning technic sounds like gold!!! nearly keeping up with a v8 that has had a good 10G on the motor ... I have a SAFC so I wont mind trying this out. But need to see other options first.

still plenty in stock.

no probs dude. Im glad you liked the kit.. Still a few kits for sale..

they are in 2.5" ..... If your not running big boost then you dont need any larger... Im sure there is a thread on it someone with the recommendations.

Look no further for a top quality piping kit, buying direct from the supplier... What I'm and selling you here is a kit that is becoming more popular day by day. See the group buy threads, see nissansilvia, everyone is extremely happy with the purchase.. Before you ask, no it's no made from copper, no it's not chromed, no the welds don't look like it was made buy a 2 yr old. These kits are made from aluminum which are highly polished on the exterier, close to a mirror finish. They have 2.5" piping with the boost nipple already welded in. The silicon is 3 ply. The kit also comes with the necessary nuts and bolts to mount it in your car. Also since there are 4 pipes in the kit for the R32, R33, R34 it is actually easier to install, more forgiving to imperfections during the installation process How much 390 delivered!! if you want a cooler I can do that for $200 extra delivered (600 x 300 x 76mm hybrid style cooler)... resellers are welcome to inquire for bulk buying...

I have just felt the same problem. if I leave my car with stock boost 9-10psi (intercooler, exahust) the car runs awesome. But when I try to boost it up to 12 psi I feel the same problem, low acceration just past 4500 then after about 500- 1000 revs the acceration picks up again. With the safc how do you trick the ECU, reduce the fuel at 4500? or the whole range after 4500. BUt then the car will start to ping.. If the second then really you cant get much more power with the stock ecu after 10 - 11 psi?

that would have been my business partner... Im glad you liked it..

one front strut brace left... Tension rods... I can get hks apexi gear too..

yeah just read that thread on NS.. Apparently the kits where made from copper and pvc piping.. well I can promise you my kits are made from aluminum.. Man they must have been cheap..

THe piping is great on the inside, No problems. Mine had a little bit of grease from the mandrel press I just presure hosed it out.. I haven't seen the topic posted but I have seen some bad kits on sau the welding was crap!!! ... This kits only has 1 weld and that is for the boost line... Perfect weld. Ask the others who have bought this kit. Not one complaint ... Trust I would be putting this kit on my own R33 if it was crap.

random special... r32 r33 r34 piping kit pick up for 350!!! Only one at this price... Brand new box unopened..

Yes it does

picture added

I have a R34/R33/R32 kit here at my place for pick up at $370... If someone wants a good deal.