rmahnovetsky

Staffo: I'm in brisbane, toowong. PM me if you want to come around. Bennno: ah yeah cheers

I have for sale a brand new r32 front strut brace $50 and a R33 front left guard $50/ or nearest offer for sale See the links below for pics and description. http://www.scoodi.com/items/86 http://www.scoodi.com/items/24 let me know if you want to purchase any of the items.

RANDY: I don't know if reading rich is normal on idle. I just presume that idling rich is no good, fowling up plugs etc. My old o2 senser was rattly and maybe the ford copy is not the same as the nissan o2 sensor and thus still giving me problems? Adriano: ECU codes show no faults. On idle at ~700rpm the AFM is showing 0.98. skylinecouple: Water temp reading 80 degrees when the motor is warmed up.

2 year ago I got the fuel injector ultrasonically cleaned. The cleaner said the injectors were fine and didin't even need cleaning. So I guess they dont leak then. I swapped the fuel regulator and the AAC valve with a mates and still had the same issue. Thanks for your input unfortunately thats not the answer for my problem

Hey Guys I have a problem with my R33 GTS-t running rich on idle. I can smell the fuel and I can see it with consult. On idle it will never go lean. I have had an idle issue since day dot and have been trying to diagnose the problem. I bought a new oxygen sensor which is the ford type and I seems to using a litle more fuel then before .i.e getting about 10.4/100 instead of high nines. I wonder if the ford type is not a perfect match???? Though I could smell fuel even before that. Does anyone know what might cause rich fuel mixture on idle? MOds: full exhaust, 040 fuel pump, safc, intercooler. K&N filter (square type).

My clutch is single plate. I dont think the single plate make any rattling sounds. Might be worth a search though.

Yeah I have exactly the same thing, But I'm sure my comes from the gearbox. As I removed the rubber surrounding from the gear stick and it was crystal clear it came from the gearbox. I notice the sound only happens if my motor is laboring or just off it.

I wonder how successful you would be selling a HSV in a skyline forum? Nice car though.

Well it is good to know that the PFC has a base idle of 900 rpm. I alway thought 800 rpm was too high for idle, guees I was wrong. If I set my idle to 900 rpm I doubt I would ever have a problem. Though to me it would seem like a patch. Found this cool thread to find a leak - seems like a great way to find one. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/158784 . You could be sure there are no leaks left after this test.

just installed a ford el bosch sensor.. No difference.. Just for others info the sensor cost $72 at thompson spare parts in caplaba. Repco wanted $106. I did notice my old sensor was rattled when I shook it. I read somewhere in the forums if a sensor is rattly it is not good.

Just read this whole thread, glad I got here before it got any bigger .. This issue sound exactly like mine. My idle was really bad last weekend in traffic at the gold coast - temp probably over 30 deg, even at 800 rpm idle I got irratic idle. If I set my idle to 900rpm I don't notice any problems at all. If I set it to 700 rpm I would be lucky to get around the block without a problem. Cold days usually fine. With summer just around the corner my idle going to have to be around 850 rpm to avoid the problem. One thing I do notice is when I let go of the accelerator somethings it will stop at 1000 rpm and gently go to idle and sometimes it just falls past base idle rpm and then finds idle. If I knew what controlled the stopping at 1000 rpm then that be a problem. I just replaced my O2 sensor with a ford el one, still didn't fix my problem. To try and find the problem, I reckon one way to tackle it would be to use a datascan software and record when your idle is running well and when your idle is acting up and compare the two. You should see a difference somewhere in the log. If I had a laptop I would do this myself.

cheers for your input. The sensor is reading fine once the car is running. I dont have a laptop atm so I cant cruise with it logging the data . But what I'm concerned with is once when I stop the car from normal operating temp and start it up again after 5 mins, the sensor does not read properly for a minute and the temp guage is just where it was left. I would think the O2 sensor is warmed up sufficently since touching the dump pipe would burn you hand off. Maybe I have intermitent faults with it, maybe it is wearing out and it needs to be very hot for it to work. Im just plucking at straws bc I dont know the internal working of it. Most o2 sensor cars I have been in once warmed up idles very nicely. My car idle like crap for 1 minute till the sensor starts to work. It seems funny to me as it is only my car doing this. I hope Im right as it would be nice not to waste $70.

I guess no one was able to answer this one. Anyway I have decided to buy a new O2 sensor, probably in need of one soon anyway - 110 000 on the original sensor I think. I'll post up my finding.

Does it still take 30 secs for the O2 to warm up even though the dump pipe is still boiling hot. So if my car is at operating temp then I switch it off, then back on after 5 mins shouldn't the O2 sensor still be hot enough to work straight away? anyone know, or have any idea?

My sensor works fine in diagnostic mode. I get my 10 flashs/ min or what ever was specified in the manual - I cant remember the exact figures.

Well that answers the "taking a bit of time for the sensor to work properly" .. I should hook up a cro to see if it is jumping from .3 to .7v on idle

I notice it takes a little while for my O2 sensor to work normally (I think). Here are the steps I take to make me believe my O2 sensor is on its way out. 1. warm up the car. 2. stop the car 3. wait 5 mins 4. start up the car and hook up conzult For the first 2 mins my idle is slighly lumpy an my timming is jumming from 0 to 20 BTDC. In this time I notice in conzult that the voltage on the O2 sensor starts from 0V then jumps to .3V and slowly moves it way up to .8 volts. Is this normal does the O2 sensor have to be at a specific temp for it to work properly or is it starting to die? After 2 mins my car idle fine. BTDC sits around 15. Any help appreciated.

Well if the datascan setup could find my problem then maybe I should try it out. Though I do have the consult interface but I dont have any software to run it properly and a laptop would be helpful. I took my computer out to the garage to log a few things but such a pain karting it around.

If you want a simulator check this out http://site.dragtag.com.au/ now that is a simulator.

3lit3 32: Thanks for the backup champ, hopefully I can get one. Rhinorebel: Thanks for looking for me, damn garage. Anyone one else able to help? would be really nice if someone could. All I really want to do is see if I can get my idle to be stable at 650-750 rpm. If I see no difference from my current idle situation then damn there is something else wrong.

Hi Guys Does anyone have an airflow meter I could borrow for a day or weekend at the most? I'm just trying to isolate an idling problem. I have tried swapping my AAC, air regulator and doing all the other common bits and pieces to find my idle problem but still no success. I just want to swap my AFM with your one for a day or a weekend to see if my car idles better as soon as I find a difference or not I will give it straight back to you - I could even notice it straight away. I will pick it up swap it and put it right back. I have an R33 with a 3 pin AFM. I would really appreciate any help. Prefer someone from the capalaba area or indooroopilly area as I travel a fair bit between the two. But Im not picky cheers

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Didn't end up being to bad .. I cleaned the terminals to the ecu and it was back up and running again You could feel the solenoid pulse when you pressed the pin. The pulse change slightly as I reved the motor and the revs where comming back down. So I dicoverd it was using a duty cycle to open and close the valve, pretty cool. More duty more open the valve and vice versa.

update: arfter further checking it seems my ground wire has a cut in it somewhere. As I have power if I use chassis ground but no power directly test the 2 plug wires. Now to find the break

Im just want to confirm with other if my solenoid is a goner. See hear are my checks to belive it is gone. -- I took the AAC solenoid off and I checked the voltage on the plug it has over 10 volts when the car was in ON but not running. Then I plugged in the solenoid and the pin did sweet FA - there is power but no magnetic field. Should the pin be sucked in on a cold start? -- When my car is running I take the plug off and it does nothing. -- To my surprise the resistance in the solenoid is still 10 ohms. This gives me a little doubt that the solenoid is gone but maybe not enough power to it. -- The IAC valve work fine. I turned on the aircon I hook it up and the pin was sucked in. As I dont have my voltage supply gerneator with me so I was not able to test if the solenoid work with an external power. Oh I did try a AA battery that did nothing I would have thought maybe a little bit of sucking power.. could it be dead?