rmahnovetsky

yeah you do. BUt I have no skyline kits left...

kit arrived on monday. At a first glance it looks great, a closer look it even looks better!.. Nice PCB too. thanks

all of my kits are gone.. My business partner has about 10 skyline kits left. If anyone wants one they better be quick as they probably wont be any left after next week. PM me to organise a kit

I have finish an anround town fuel usage test with the new pump.. $30 of fuel at 1.16/L of 95 ron gave me 277ks and still counting maybe 10 more... so at 277 ks = 9.33 L / 100ks .. Adding a bigger fuel pump has no effect on fuel usage - as expected ... Mine you I didn't go over 4500 once.

yes I do 1 left.

last 4 piping kits available 3 s13/180sx , 1 x skyline . $300 delivered each.. Get in quick before they are all gone.

OK so I tested the fpr it is 44 psi when I take the vacuum off. 34 When I put it back on. ~38psi when my idle is screwy..

actually I can notice the fuel pump wine when fuel gets low. ..

no, the vacuum line was not disconnected when I checked it. I'll check it with the vacuum off. Could explain why I have an idle problem on hot and humid days.

bwilkeson: good luck, I'm sure it will go great.. Post up the results..

well Im using a 040 so ok for me maybe the diapham can't sustain that amount of pressure and slowly opens up?

Well that is how I though it worked. let me just re explain to make sure what Im thinking is right with you line of thinking. The fpr is controller via the plenum. If you adjust the idle screw you will see a drop or increase in pressure if you have an inline in guage. The fpr basically acts like a valve, how far open it is, is determined position via the vacuum. Thus the stock fuel pump and the fpr go hand the hand, they are dependant on each other to give the correct factory fuel pressure to the injectors.. for eg fuel pressure = 50 psi fpr is open at 50% ... 25psi to injectors , 25psi back to the tank. Increasing decreasing the fuel pressure will alter the pressure to the injector and back to the tank. The fpr is just a valve which open and closes via a vacuum thats it. Therefore changing fuel pressure will change how much pressure goes to the injectors.. if Im wrong please set me straight.

cheers for you input guys. Really appreciated.. fuel pressure is determined by my inline fuel pressure guage on the pump side. Im getting about 42psi on idle and 44 just off idle (ECU voltage drop/increase)..Stock is 34 then 36-38 psi Yes slow progression to 10% fuel removal. I started at 3k and slowly worked to 10% removal at 4.5k.. I'm using stock fpr After idle I don't know my fuel pressure. I dont have the guts to stick my head in the bonnet while Im driving Maybe my pump was tired thats why I'm noticing such a big different in open loop. With the old pump I somtimes needed to give it +1 to +3% to avoid det on 9PSI.. But now with 13psi and 14 psi spike the acceration is constant throughout the whole range. I have decided to leave it at 9PSI until I get it tuned properly - thanks guys appreciated. I'll get it tuned, take it to the track and see what figures I can come up with ... I though the stock fpr ran of the vacuum from the plenum chamber not the actually pressure in the fuel rail?

benl1981 : It is not knocking at all, no readings on my safc.. Well I would have thought the knock sensors were pretty good. If the manufactures use it to protect the motor then it is good enough for me. Who would give a warranty on bad knock sensors or one that dont work that well... I have been using the guidiance of the safc for 2 years now and my car has been great and my sparks plug look normal.. So I trust the knock sensors. Timming is set at 15 deg. At 13 psi and 14psi peak I was getting no knocking with 11% fuel removal. BUt I put it at 10% just incase. WIth 12% at ~32deg outside temp I got slight knock prob a reading of 30, this was in 3rd gear. The knock was very small as I use graph mode when Im testing, it's much easy to check for knock. 3lit3 32: please explain why, and then please explain why I can remove up 10% fuel with my car not knocking at 13 psi. Remember Im using a bigger fuel pump with has a pressure of 73.5. My turbo screams too, I reckon it probably doing 100 000 rev/min .. Sounds great though ..

cheers cubes, I havent tried 4th yet.. I think it best for me to put it back to 10psi for now. I was just to eager to see how it would go I was told bosch has a wideband sensor for about $50 - $100. These guys alway come in handy, I may aswell just get one. I have a little dick smith display kit that I can just hook straight up to it.. I wonder why it is not pinging with the standard timing as predicted. Maybe my fuel pressure isn't high enough for me to take out a lot of fuel to put me in the high ignition points. The 040 pump is not as noisy as expected either. I could hear the std pump on prime and I can too hear the 040 on prime but it is not that much louder... I have always had a bit of an idle issue after I started my car from a 15 minute warm down. What I noticed now is when my car starts dropping revs under 750rpm idle I can here the pump more mmm . I was hoping the new pump might has fixed this problem but it didn't ..

the great thing about the safc is it shows when there is knock. It also has this in graph mode so you dont have to constantly watch the safc.. much better than a resistor.. but yeah I could have saved some money there too I was getting R&R at 10 psi... no wideband, I'm just working off the knock sensor atm - just making sure I stay clear from any knocking, till I borrow a wideband sensor, then I can tune it properly. I took 10% from 4k and up. Car felt a little sugglish otherwise. If my memory server me right idle pressure now is at ~42 PSI about 8 PSI more.. I'm using the standard wiring to the pump.

I haven't got a dual digital boost controller yet.. So it did spike at 14 psi, but 13 psi held throught the rest of the rev range.. I haven't dynoed it yet.

OK the arguement is over... Fuel pump has been fitted Now for the answer!!! today at 12:30 nice and warm I was able to pull out 10% on the SAFC (I detected little det spikes at 12% removal)and I have not touched the CAS yet.. 10 PSI nice and smoooth now. 11 PSI nice and smooth and wheel spins on the onset of boost in first and throughout second. 12 PSI havent tried yet.. 13 PSI OH my GOD!!!! no det (not a drop) no CAS changes and just 10% fuel removal the car is a nightmare!!!! Seriously I hoped out shaking and my heart racing!!!!! I was spinning the wheels and fishing up into half way in 3rd gear... I did not expect this!!!! R&R, what R&R, going through the gears were so fast and smooth, I could not detect R&R at all... This upgrade was the best yet! more chat later, I have to take the misses out

I want to make sure I get every bit of fuel in the tank, so I lathed up an attachment to fit the original filter on ... Pump will be installed tomorrow morning, actually this morning...

ok I just saw a thread on how to do it... Now I feel stupid I took the back seat out... hehehe... Look like to fit the 040 it is not as easy as remove and replace.. Looks like I need to get an attachment so the fuel line can be clamped and the pump needs to be lowered a fair bit...

how the hell do you get to the pump.. I have taken the lid off just under the parcel tray and the pump is just visible with a touch.. It's on the other side of the tank..

Sydneykid, cheers for your reply and yeah if I was looking for 240kw then I would definitely not go this direction. But I'm just looking for a cheap way to bypass the R&R. With a full exhaust and 9psi (2 psi more than stock) I managed a 14.051 down the 1/4 from a 14.9 stocko. So Im hoping the get another 1 sec off my time with 13 psi. Thats 4 psi more. If I can get into the 12s I'll be really happy.. So if I can pull it off thats only a fuel pump and a safc..

Cubes: possible outlook that what I like to see... My whole idea is the make the skyline as fast as possible with the littlest amount of money. If I cant just use a bigger fuel pump and a safc then I have spend a bit more get a fpr and try that, if no good then maybe sitc then maybe power fc.. But the whole idea for me is to show myself and others how make realiable power as cheap as possible... It would be great to have a r33 in the 12s with < $2000 spent on it..

maybe a sard adjustable or a malpassi?

is ther any links or picture of what the map looks like for the R33. Would give me a better idea on what is going on in there. I know the basics but the source is always better