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anyone got any tips for replacing injectors ??? i have some that need installing and it 'looks' like a fairly easy job ... i have s15 480 cc injectors that are just awaiting a clean / service, then will be installed ... anyone done this care to comment please ? cheers

ah ic ...

not a question about the purchase of the item .. but just wondering if it could really be carbon fibre ... just that CF is really strong and shouldnt really crack that easily ... just out of interests sake anyway

sry, not to sound too rude, but do a search ... it has been covered many times, and a lot of members have posted extensive mounting guides ... cheers

more info on the datalogit is also available here http://66.58.90.82/twiki/pub/Main/DataLogi...C-DataLogIt.htm

i'm not sure if thats legal to do, i'm sure i'd be breaking some kind of copyright laws ... besides, i only said i saw it, not downloaded it, that'd be wrong ...

Due to the purchase of a new GCG highflow i have my series 2 turbo unit up for sale car has done 63k, and i have never run the turbo more than 12/13 psi. i always give a MINIMUM of 30 seconds cool down on the turbo timer. the car was delivered to me as standard '96 model, and do not believe it was modified in japan. does not blow ANY oil - i recently changed the intercooler and the one i took off was clean inside ! the turbo comes as is, with actuator, and oil return pipe. I am looking for $480 inc shipping or closest offer Please pm me any questions, and i'll reply as soon as possible. Thanks

hmm, i also found the fc datalogic software ... anyone have the hardware specs for the interface ?

All, Just doing some research and came accross the pfc commander pdf manual .. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/power_FC_manual.pdf obviously its aimed at the rx7, but its basically the same ?? right .. ?? have fun

is it the ecu limiting the boost pressure back to 'limp back home' mode ??? what psi are you running ? do a search on ecu diagnostic code checking, and check out your ecu to see what happening ... just my 2c

my r33's rad is totally covered by the fmic, i am using the stock clutch fan, and stock electric fan, i have not seen temps above 86 deg C, and again, this was sat in traffic on a 30+ day ... it usually seems to run around the 82deg c mark ....

All, i got in touch with pioneer about what could be done with the Carrozzeria series bits of equipment that are floating around from imports .. i got this response from pioneer ... nice huh Barry, Unfortunately the Pioneer Carrozzeria series was manufactured for the Japanese domestic market only, it was never designed for operation outside of this region therefore it is not functional in Australia. I am sorry I could not be of any further assistance. Regards Greg Radford Call Centre Manager

do you still have this for sale ? if so can you pm me pls ta

ok, i've been looking into this as a v cheap version of the pioneer dvh 7550 http://www.jpkobestar.com/lcd/all-in-one.htm it essentially looks the same as the pioneer, although does not have the touch screen that the pioneer does, i have got a few pages of the manual, and the 'brains box' also looks the same as the pioneer ... for all intense purposes it looks the same !! i'm just waiting to see if i can get some pics of the menu system to see how close the firmware is to the pioneer, i can get these landed to my door for about $1000 which is about 3500 bux cheaper than the pioneer .... !!! does anyone have any experiense with them ??? a similar brand is also by LMdigital, based in korea, the unit again looks identical, similar model number, and the specs reports a v similar spec to the pioneer, just waiting on a price for that .... thoughts anyone ???

bought a used hks front mount kit return pipe needed hole cutting below water bottle, no probs, just lined the metal on the bodywork with some fuel pipe that i split and pushed onto the metal, this is so that the return pipe does not bang on the metal work at all, had some slight knocking issues to begin with. no fan blades needed cutting, seemed to clear ok, but the return pipe is just touching the radiator feed pipe, i'm sure this is not very good, and is bleeding heat into the return pipe... will need to sort at some point yet lots of cutting of the front bar to do, although i used a hand grinder ( 4" ) with a thin metal wheel, and it makes cutting the bar REALLY easy, its also easy to make decent radius cuts as well ... i made up a couple of metal brackets to support the fmic, just used holes in the box chassis, then bolts into the side bracket points on the fmic, if the mount lugs are on the bottom of the ic, then a simple mode to extent this to under it would be easy ... i did all this in a full days worth of work, the largest portion of time was cutting out the front bar, and making it look reasonably good ... other than that, only really basic garage tools are needed, and a grinder (one of the most all round useful tools i ever purchased) grinders are also pretty cheap ... $80 or so gets you a reasonable bosh one from bunnings ! let me know if you have any questions, i can email some pics if needed cheers

best thing you can do for ipod connectivity is to buy a belkin f8v7058-apl it plugs into the cig lighter, and has a socket in it to plug in for tape connectivity. i then hacked the cig lighter thing apart, and pulled out the line level wires and hooked into the aux input on my pioneer. wire in to a +12 behind the dash, and just leave out the cord to plug into ipod. make for a very nice and neat install. now your only issue will be the aux input on the std unit !

i just bought 6" for rear and 6" for front, both front and rear was a perfect straight swap ! got some pioneer 4 way jobbies from strathfield, who appear to have having a large sale on at the moment, retail at $280 a pair, get em for $128 a pair !

for some older pioneer units, the key sequence is to have the ignition key in OFF position, hold down button 7 then turn key to acc position, this then enables the AUX input. Cheers

yep, i got them from artarmon in the end ... they actually do make a special kit for the r33 that they did not know about, until i researched the balls out of it, and told them what kit i needed, they had it in stock, and it was fitted nice and quickly by them !! they should know what kit you need now as it was new to them back then ... if you want, pm me, and i'll dig out the kit numbers you need cheers

lo all ... bought a hks super squential bov a while ago, 1nd hand, and just got around to fitting it, great noise, apart from the whistle thing, that just gets annoying after a while ... anyway, question is the screw adjustment on the back ... what teh fook does it do ??? tried adjusting it in and out, couldnt really notice much difference other than it stalled a bit on the full out position ... anyone got any clues ?? cheers

#6, then #5

Hi all As part of the upgrades, i am replacing my fuel regulator ... After purchasing a malpassi fuel reg, i was hit with 'where the F do i install it' As the s2 rb25 has the fuel reg built into the fuel rail, there was no way to install the malpassi without using the existing fuel reg as well ... so, a phone call to 'EFI Hardware' got me a replacement nozzle thingy .. You basically remove the standard regulator, and install this in its place, then you use the brass nozzle thing (via fuel tube) to connect to the new regulator .. this makes installing ANY fuel pressure reg nice and easy ... Steve at EFI knew exactly what i needed when i called up, and the parts were shipped nice and quickly ... phone : 03 9873 5400 I don't work for them or anything, just impressed with their service and think they deserve recognition for it ... the alloy part you see in the pic replaces the std regulator, the brass part screws into the new alloy part, and connects to your new fuel reg ... couldn't be simpler ! The observation is that the alloy part had a little bit of swarf in it still, just requires a good cleaning out ... nothing you would not do to any new part on your car really ! cheers Baz

thanks ! just one more note, i put a desk fan about 8' behind me on full power, just so that fumes escaping from the tank were not concentrated all in one place, the fan would disperse the fumes, and so should be less of an explosion risk ... petrol fumes ignite pretty easily !

ok, to give some light on some of the questions ... I bought one of these, and fitted it a couple of weeks ago, paid $200 for it shipped ... gah .. anyway, i did do a thread on the forums about it but below is a list of things i found... 1. removal of the old pump is easy, the hardest part of removing the black screw ring around the tank access pannel. 2. everything just fits with this walbro ! the ONLY thing you have to modify is the electrical connections to plug in the new pump, but you get everything you need to do this anyway ... all you need for the mod is a pair of pliars. 3. you can easily use the existing mounting bracket, the new pump even comes with a rubber gromet / brush type thing that fits into the bottom of the bracket, and lets the new pump fit perfectly. you don't need the extra fuel tube that comes with the pump, or the clamps. 4. the new pump is a LOT thinner than the stocker, so does not sit flush against the bracket along the length of the pump, its not a prob as its held in pretty well on the top and bottom, i just decided to whack a couple of zip ties around it anyway .. 5. the sock filter from the stock pump fits directly onto the new pump, you don't need the filter that comes with the new pump. 6. it does not seem to run any richer than before with the new pump, the 255lph is only what it CAN deliver, not what it does deliver all the time ... your injectors, and pressure reg will control how much fuel the engine actually gets ... and thats all i have to say about that ... hope some of your questions may have been answered ... cheers Baz