Bugzs15

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Price drop $300 shipped

+1 for Iron Chef, cant fault them at all, all staff i dealt with were great. I am now a happy owner of a low km immaculate GTT.

It's the whole kit as per the pic in the link I posted. It's all you will need to replace the existing Hicas rods with aftermarket non Hicas rods. Looks quite nice instead of just a lock bar.

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I am selling a HICAS drag rod which replaces the stock HICAS system. Its brand new still in box. This is a lot better than installing a lock bar and also provides weight saving benefits once the HICAS is removed. Below is a link to the part I am selling, its excatly the same as the one listed on this website. Link: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-drag-rod-super-hicas-nissan.html I am looking for around $320, I can ship this to anywhere in Australia as well. I accept PayPal as well. I was quoted $100 to get this installed by a qualified workshop. Extract from Website link above: Description The CUSCO Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan is a must for those of you who are serious about tuning your vehicles for high speed circuit, drift, drag and all other spirited driving. Product Specs Brand: CUSCO Product: Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan Part Num: 222 474 TC SPECIFICATIONS: Features: Provide precise handling for nissan's equipped with HICAS. - The Drag Rod replaced HICAS systems, eliminating the softness feel at high speed by providing a direct feel in car control and traction. Material: Steel. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - Only Vehicles Equipped with HICAS - R34: Only 2WD Vehicles (Except for BNR34).

I was wondering if anyone has recent information (googled but most topics date to around 5-10 years ago) on what i need to have with me when i go to RTA in NSW to get the car i just imported and have compliance plate for under SEVS registered for the first time? I am after info with regard to: - is it just a walk in and wait in cue process or do i need to go to an RTA inspection station. - is compliance plate enough to get the car registered along with CTP - can i just get a CTP online or do i need an original certificate sent in the mail? - will i need to pay stamp duty as well as i have alreay paid import duty? - will the number plates be issued on the same day or will i need to come back later (i am after random digits white plates) -anything else i need to have a smooth process in RTA, cant get much time off work so trying to do all this on Saturday morning if possible. Also can i drive it fromt he compliance workshop to RTA in NSW? Any tips provided much appreciated.

Thanks GTSBoy, makes perfect sense when you think about it actually. I was just confused as i thought the only way it goes into the engine is via the intake, but pieces flicking back inside through the exhaust manifold is quite possible based on your explanation. Its a pretty bad design i guess (maybe a longer manifold runner could minimise it), as the chances of a turbo failing is quite likely when they get old, even if you dont run extra boost. But then something as simple as a leaking radiator hose or a snapped auxillary/timing belt are also likely to blow an engine, so this is just an added risk you need to be aware of when buying a turbo car i guess.

so isn't the propeller on the exhaust side spinning the same direction as the flow of exhaust gasses and would just be flung into the dump pipe and is in a seperate housing to the intake (cold) side of the turbo? or is it because of the design of our particular turbos that broken shrapnel bouncing inside the turbine shell is flicked back into the engine through the intake side of the turbo by the nylon compressor wheel which is sitll intact, thus causing engine damage. i am just tring to undersatnd the weakness of the turbos in our cars, your explanation definitaly made it easier to understand though, appreciate it.

yeah the compressor wheel makes sense, just always wondered how the exhust side makes it back inside the engine. but based on the threads in this forum seems to be quite common.

Always wondered how does an exhaust wheel go back inside the motor? I always assumed it would be spat out into the exhaust. Unless the wheel on the intake side somehow flicks some of the exhaust wheel pieces into the intake. Noob question I know just wanted someone to clarify.

What water temp are you guys seeing on your gtt MFD when idling? Mine sits at 91-92c with AC on. Not sure if that's accurate or not. Any one else's read outs would be appreciated.

Just wanted to check with members here, what coolant temperature are people seeing when idling in traffic with AC ON on a 25-30 degree day? I know that rb25det neos run a hotter thermostat, so wanted to see what temps people are seeing when idling for a while with AC on? Also what is the vacuum gauge showing in terms of inhg, is around -16 inhg ok when idling with AC on? Any replies to clear these up are appreciated. Cheers