SuAvE-1

that was a nice little cruise, bad communication though. I mis-directed a whole bunch of ppl because I got told that everyone was going onto the princess hwy. After I found out we were going into the mountains, it was far too late! Sorry about that Took a while for that cop to rock up... don't know how he knew about that van! Funny as hell though. Alexcim : we met at springvale??? Andru: Nice to meet you Andru, what happened to you??

might check it out with r32 (Bsuave - perhaps you've seen me around eh?), I only live up the road. I've never met any of you guys yet, sounds like a good opp.

if you deturboed the car, would they neccesarily wish to drive it? Aside from diggin into your personal business like everyone else, to de-turbo the car, you would need to transplant in a non-turbo engine, or the essential non-turbo parts from a non-turbo r34 - these are very rare and therefore expensive. You'd probably be best off selling the car, even if you did 'modify' the engine, it may still be registered as turboed, and if not, the car will be 'modified' and possibly therefore illegal anyways.

MAJOR RESPECT TO CUBES!!! I was just about to update you all on my discovery, and he has said it! Something is up with my temp sensor in the cat - i had these problems come up when i put my exhaust on (and a bunch of other stuff, so i didn't know where to look straight away) and while i played with the temp sensor a while back, it didn't seem to make any difference. As a last resort, i completely unbolted it and tucked it up. NO ERRORS HAVE COME UP IN THE SHORT TIME I HAVE BEEN DRIVING THE CAR! I still have to check error codes after a longer drive, but i know that the check engine light hasn't even blinked. Good call cubes.

UPdate: Just fitted my adjustable fuel pressure reg back up, turned the boost down to 11-12psi, fiddled with the O2 sensor all to no avail.

That might be the direction I'm looking for Rob82. Thanks for the consideration. I'm not exactlty sure on how I would go about choosing such a resistor or where to wire it in, but I'd happily be a guinea pig if there are no other solutions. Predator, my check engine light comes up at idle, at cruising speed, deceleration, whatever. On hard acceleration the check engine light comes up very rapidly (this is the only time where the error does not seem to be random). What do you mean that the engine won't last - the engine operates almost perfectly (aside from this minor issue)? PM me.

I bought a genuine Nissan part from Kudos Motorsports (trader on SAU i think) but through Ebay. $135. Search on ebay for r32 master cylinder and attempt to show ebay stores if it doesn't come up straight away.

i've looked at the r32 engine manual, rob82, are you talking about 4 pin connector? Ive run a multimeter on this and get the voltage as specified in the manual. Funny thing was though, when I had that connector completely disconnected (ie no det sensor hooked up) the car ran so very poorly however, the check engine light still flashed in the same random manner as when it did when it was connected... EDIT: Note taken turbo X, when i was searching through the forums there were a few posts of people changing their sensors to no avail either!

i've been thinking about trying to cancel out the signal from the det sensors, something which could immitate the sensors without making them 'go off'. Doesn't anyone know anything?? If not... where can i get new det sensors from?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I'm with you man...Who needs air vents?? To paint the interior panels I did a very half-assed sanding, cleaned with a quick wipe of metho then painted with a coat of touch-up paint primer, then with a sliver metallic touch up paint, then with a clear coat again, from the touch-up-paint section! Over a year now and still shining.

paid $70 for it day before yesterday. f**kn awesome. I have an r32, and because they didn't need to retrofit the whole system to make it compatible with r134a, cost was low and took 20mins on the spot.

i have the same problem on my car - pull the latch outwards as hoizontally as possible. keeping it flat will prevent any friction loss and allow full force to pull the cable. put all your weight into it.

^^^ same. but i do have an aftermarket fuel pump. on really hot days after a bit of stick the intercooler copps it though. heat soak==badd.

hey ppl, I need a BIG hand with something My check engine light comes on here and there - at IDLE and WOT and all inbetween randomly and sometimes flashes very quickly under hard acceleration. I hooked up NewKleer's Consult port reader to the car and the knock sensor is going off. Does anyone know what is going on? the system acts randomly only operating sometimes, but more and more recently its becoming more frequent. The car itself (r32t) runs perfectly fine, but it did hesitate today. When looking at the readout from nissan data scan, nothing appears to be any different. Timing still looks normal 15deg at idle (not that I completely know what normal is). The error seems to have popped up after I recently took a look at the cold-start valve, although i'm not sure if its got anything to do with it. I do know that at full peak acceleration the duty cycle is at 96-97 and the AFM is at 4.7v or something. I had an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator but i took it off when trying to eliminate this problem. Car is stock apart from a turbo-back exhaust, 14psi, walbro fuel pump and pod. Is my engine really detonating or are the sensors picking up something they shouldn't be? sorry for the slab of story. anyone got any comments or ideas??? any help greatly appreciated!

I have the same problem, some times it does it when the car is cold. Sometimes it does it when the car is warm, sometimes not. I am running everything stock except for boost controller, AAC valve out of a GTS-4 93' model, adj fuel pressure reg and walbro gss342 pump. These problems came once i installed the pump and reg. I can resolve the problem very quickly by simply touching the slightest of touches on the acclerator. perhaps this has something to do with it. I will investigate in a few weeks time.

what's teh G-O with this deal ? i'm down, PM'd!

I once read somewhere that generally, it is the synthetic clutch/brake fluids which do the damage. So any non-synthetic brake fluid should do. Just used some penrite brake fluid. Seems all good. If your looking to replace your clutch master cylinder, there is an excellent write up in the tutorial section

Here's my input to the archives after taking so, so much... CAR: 1990 R32 GTS-t PARTS REQUIRED: 1x clutch master cylinder assy. I bought mine from Kudos Motors Sorts as Genuine Nissan Part. 1x bottle of mineral brake (and clutch) fluid. Do not use Synthetic stuff as I’ve heard it destroys the seals in the master cylinder, making the whole problem occur again. I used Penrite brake fluid. Good stuff. TOOLS REQUIRED: 12mm and 10mm spanners Small to medium sized adjustable shifter 12mm socket and ratchet Pliers Bucket/Oil pan Jack and chocking/support bricks/ramps Optional: large spring assisted pliers (not sure what it is actually called). Time - give yourself about 2 hours if you haven't done it before Difficulty - Perfect for the DIY'er. about a 5/10. Keep in mind that if you stuff it up, you're not going to be able to move your car. Hence, leave your car in a position where it can be towed easily or that your not blocking the drive way off! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 1 - Drain the fluid from the master cylinder. Jack the car up from the driver’s side. Look underneath the car to find the clutch slave cylinder. There will be a bleed valve there identical to the one on the clutch master. Use your adjustable shifter to undo the bolt enough until fluid comes out. Collect it in your pan. After it has stopped dripping, push and pull the clutch in and out a couple of times just to make sure the old fluid is out. The clutch pedal will hit the floor so don't panic. Lower the can back down, but not completely off the jack, just enough for the tires to be firmly on the ground. Step 2 - Push the driver’s seat back (or take it out if you are not flexible enough). Look upwards at the clutch pedal to find a bolt and pin. This attaches the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Rotate the pin around until as much of it shows clear of the pedal so you can get your pliers and yank it off. It won't give you too much trouble. Then slide the bolt out (horizontally). This will free the clutch pedal from the master cylinder. Step 3 - There are two bolts attaching the master cylinder to the firewall. Use your 12mm tools to get these off. I found removing the pipe leading to the AAC valve will allow some manoeuvring space for your hands. Step 4 - attempt to remove the steel pipe leading from the clutch master downwards. I was unable to use my 10mm spanner effectively as it would just round. If you can get it off, skip step 5 and 6. Step 5 - Back underneath the car with your 10mm spanner. Find the steel line which leads from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It leads to a conjunction box which is flimsily mounted to the car. The pipe should end on the side of the rear of the car, facing forward. Undo this bolt which attaches the line to the box and move the line out and around the other return line which is present there. At this point you will be able to remove the master unit from the car with a bit of manoeuvring for the line. Do not allow the steel pipe to bend, with the right bending and a bit of patience, it will be removed easily. Step 6 – take your spring assisted pliers (or anything with enough clamping force) and clamp the 10mm bolt. Use the body of the master cylinder to free the steel line. After freeing the line, carefully place the line back in its position within and around the other lines of the car. Do not force it, the line must go around the speedo cable and other things properly, and it will. Bolt it back up to the flimsily box near the clutch slave cylinder. CAUTION: brake/clutch fluid is extremely deadly for paint. Watch out when you remove the line, because there will be some left over in that line. Step 7: Almost there. After the steel line is back in place, manoeuvre the new clutch master cylinder in place of the old one. Attempt to connect the steel line back up to it. I found this too difficult to do as the angle needed to be perfect, so I removed the steel line back off, connected it to the master cylinder and then put the whole lot back in as a whole. Step 8: Bolt the 12mm bolts back up and then connect the clutch pedal to the new master cylinder. That pin can just be pushed back on by hand. Step 9: Jack the car back up and get underneath it. Use your shifter to tighten up the drain bolt back up. Add new brake fluid to the cylinder. Watch some of the Air escape. Make sure all connections are tight and not leaking. Step 10: The Bleeding Process. This is the final step and if you’ve come this far, the hard part is definitely over. Throughout this process, you will have to gradually add fluid to the master cylinder. Do not let the level of fluid sink lower than ¾ of the level in the chamber. After adding the initial fluid and observing some air escape, go back down underneath the car to the slave cylinder valve, open it, you should see air bubbles escaping followed by the new fluid, allow this to run briefly so that any old fluid can escape. Tighten up the slave cylinder again, then top up the fluid in the master. Open the bleed valve on the master cylinder now and allow fluid to escape from there too. Tighten it up. Top up the fluid once more if you have to. Now all connections should be tight. Push the clutch pedal in and out with your hand 3 or 4 times and then go back underneath the car and open up the slave cylinder again, allow fluid to escape and then close. Repeat this process another 2 times. Always make sure you have enough fluid in the master cylinder. That’s it. Congratulations. If anyone thinks I have left something out, post it up and i might amend the write up. There may be better ways of doing things, but this is what I did yesterday, and now my clutch feels excellent. I might try and do some pictures if people tell me they need them.

do a search. this has been discussed before. Use Meguiars plastic X, but u will come up with better answers on a search...

hey ppl, Has anyone experienced a slipping in their sun roofs? I have a r32 and I need to manually assist the sunroof into position as i'm pushing the button. Everything sounds fine, it just doesn't move much on its own most of the time back and forth (up and down is usually pretty fine). Anyone experience these symptoms or know how to fix it? Thanks in advance, Lior

just bought a new clutch master cylinder for $140 delivered off Kudos motorsports. Brand new genuine part. Gonna install it soon. ATM i believe my clutch to be fine, but I have to keep topping up the master cylinder fluid (as it pools around my feet) to maintain decent gear selection and clutch disengagement on high load.

its only noisy when you actually open the bonnet, but on the other cars i've had the noise has generally been a lot softer and not noticable.

yeah the heavier gear knob feels excellent, i have one out of my mates SR20 180sx. Randy, it was a generic one from automotorsports. they have a large range of automotive products, although they did not send me the chrome gear knob pictured. when I asked them about it, they agreed to send me a chrome gear knob and that one didn't fit. I didn't bother them any further as I got my mates stock one. Never get rid of your stock gear knob!!! I installed the short shifter with aid from the write up in the tute section on SAU. Gear box feels way stonger now compared to the stock unit, which was very light and notchy. I do need to fix my clutch master cylinder though. I'm also planning to change the fluid over to redline shockproof, just for good measure :-)

if both cars are available, it doesn't take much to try. even simply measure teh size of the struts and see if they come close...

nice 1 man, very creative. I did a similar thing. Helps if your vents are cracked.