SuAvE-1

Fair calls, I do agree that when people post negative comments like 'your dreaming on that price mate' piss me off badly. It hurts the sale as a whole. However, some prices are meant to be haggled with. Take your example of $500 for the RB25 turbo, i mean, $150 is pretty stupid, but you could have someone who only has $400 and they're turbo has jus gone on their RB20! May as well make the offer and see if the seller is willing to take the $400 for a quick sale. I remember when I tried selling my Series 5 Rx-7. It was an automatic, but it had 80,000k genuine and was in literally perfect condition and unmodified. It had a relatively easy life. I want $12 for it, and i got a few dumb sh*ts saying you can get a manual one with heaps of mods for that much! They could have at least PM'd me instead of messing the thread up. lol I wasn't intending to rant myself....honest. /rant

Hey all, I'm reading some general info about skylines and I come across transmission types and various information on the blue plate on the firewall. I have a gts-t (not so sure whether type M or S any more, thought type M.) and the model number for the tranny is FS5W71C. In this general skyline info pdf, it says this model tranny is for the skyline GTS. Could someone please tell me what this means, and what the difference is between this model and the FS5R30A? Thanks Lior

G'day all. I need some help with the following. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I have decided to build a box to the specifications recomended with the subwoofer. It is a Pioneer TS something 300C (the one with the really fat cone surround and carbon-fibre centre cap. The car is a 1990 GTS-t. It is still in Japan. I'm waiting for import approval. I'm currently running the sub in my old subbie box which is a lot larger and has no chance fitting in the shallow boot of the skyline. I'm looking to design a box now because the pioneer in its current box sounds like crap, and I want to be able to put it in the car first thing. I'd prefer to maintain maximum boot space so I want the subbie to sit back as far as possible. I can use the whole width and height of the boot, with the length of the boot the adjusting factor. My question is, is the maximum height and width of the box ( say, just before it hits the Hicas box and slides nicely as far back as possible past the strut towers. I took a look at a r32 GTR boot yesterday and he had the stock boot floor insulation and that looked like it was almost two inches thick! Is it worth keeping for any reason? The taller I can make the box, the less distance it has to come outwards. I estimated the maximum width would be about 50cm between the two strut towers and maximum height to be around 25 cm between the insulated floor and the hicas box. Any variations to that? Anything that might make that smaller? Any other recomendations to what I could do? I'd like to keep my space saver though. Thank for your help people.

Just saw the coverage then by luck! I would also ask - is that it? however, its a bit hard considering the track is like 5 seconds long! I think it is definetly a positive boost for the industry however, I think it would have helped a lot when the drivers were having their final comments, to plug drifting as a serious sport. I certainly hope drifting recieves more coverage and increase popularity.

When my FC RX-7 was registered it had tyres from japan. They were the worst tyres ever made, in the wet i slipped around dangerously just on normal acceleration - it was almost impossible to get around however, the car was still registered.

thats an absolutely awesome photo collection there, I feel like going to Japan now to see more. Hopefully the skyline I pick-up at the auctions over there hasn't been driven by a maniac :chairshot