Shaun

Ha Ha, my pocket is definately on fire. Thanks for all your opinions, i think ill spend my money on the engine build instead (oil control maybe), and then replace the coils when they cause a problem. Im using an Autronic SM4 without CDI Shaun.

Gday, just after a few (experienced) opinions here. My car has been off the road for several years now, and im getting enthused to finnish it, so im not sure if im just looking for an excuse to spend money on an unnecessary upgrady or not. Ive got standard ignition with standard coil packs on a built RB26 with an Autronic, hopefully putting out over 300KW at the wheels (The engine isnt assembled yet). Is there any sense in getting splitfire coil packs or do they provide no advantages over properly working standard ones? Ive never had any ignition problems, but then ive never experienced this power level. Should i spend $500 on something more worthwhile?? Thanks, Shaun.

Thanks for that! I thought $125 was a bit too much to pay. Just to be sure; tie rod ends are the ball joints that connect the ends of the steering rack to the wheel assembly arent they? Theyve got the pillow type rubber boot thats filled with grease. Thanks, Shaun.

Hi, Just wondering if anyone can help me out. My car is off the road for a while, so i was thinking of replacing the front tie rod ends on my R32 gtst. The rubber has perished and the grease is now gone. Nissan can supply them for $125 each which, while not the end of the world, was a bit more than i expected. My question is: Does anyone know where i can get some aftermarket tie rod ends that are cheaper than Nissan? Also, is it possible just to replace the rubber boot around the ball joint and fill it with grease? Im not sure that the joints themselves are worn out; just the boot has perished. Thanks, Shaun.

Thanks mate, ill keep that in mind. I like the idea of purchasing the core seperately and getting lines to suit because im worried that the jap kits wont fit in the intended position, as ive got some other custom stuff in the areas intended. Also, ive already got a remote filter fitted. Shaun.

Hi, Interesting reading where people have located their oil coolers. I thought it would have been best to keep the oil lines as short as possible, although i have no basis for this. If HKS and Greddy are mounting them in the passenger side guard, i suppose its ok. I have thought about mounting mine horizontally and fabricating ducting to suit as stated here, but i think ill have enough room in my drivers side guard, as ive got an R32 gtst with a gtr engine and its all pretty custom. Anyway, has anyone used the EARLS oil coolers, because i was thinking of getting one of them and purchasing braid to suit. Shaun.

I'd probably be interested in buying two of them if they are in unmarked condition. Shaun.

Gday, Interested in the kit; just wondering where you located it on your gtst. Thanks, Shaun.

Hi all, I installed a lock bar on my R32 gtst and removed ALL of the unneccessary plumbing to the rear of the car and to the rear section of the PS pump (i removed the little impellers of the rear pump too). I didnt touch the HICAS controller under the parcel shelf though, but i still lost my power steering. The only electrical thing that i can remember was like a cast junction thing near the rear steering rack. Any ideas anyone??

Thanks mate. I sent you a PM if thats ok. Shaun.

Gday, Im preparing to strip my R32 gtst back to a shell so that i can have it resprayed. Im going to do all the prep work, and then tow it over to a spray painters to finnish it off. My question is; Does anyone know what non genuine rubbers are able to be substituted for the factory R32 front and rear windscreen rubbers? Ive heard that some commodore rubbers will fit and im not prepared to pay $520 each for genuine Nissan ones! Also, ill pull the rear quarter windows out as well, so ill either have to remove the rubbers undamaged, or source some new ones. Does anyone know where i can get some of these as well (non genuine or cheap Nissan?). Thanks, Shaun.

Hey man, Do you have to do anything with electrics under the car, or is it just stuffing around with the hydraulic lines? Thanks, Shaun.

Silly post edited. Sorry.

Thanks for the info guys; ill keep investigating. Shaun.

Id give my nuts for that Volk style of rim. Wish i could afford them.

Personally, i think they look great! As long as theyre not overdone with ridiculous body kits and neons and sh!t. Heres a pic of my car with Enkei Tarmac Evos.

Gday, I am interested in buying an air compressor (electric) so i can use pneumatic tools in my garage, but i dont really know alot about them. I know you can get em cheap at places like Super Cheap Auto, but i want to use tools like grinders, sanders and ratchets and im concerned that the cheapies will only run spray gun equipment etc. My question to those in the know is: What should i be looking for in a fairly decent home handyman/workshop compressor that will run the above mentioned tools. Also, how are the different size compressors measured (amount of air expelled?). What should i be paying also? Thanks guys. Shaun.

GTR oil pump sold. Ill get the details off the AC compressor.

Ummm, i dont know what squish zones etc are, and this topic certainly goes over my head, but i was just wondering something about the above diagram. When the piston is coming back up after firing, the inlet valve is closed and the exhaust open; the shape of the piston in the diagram doesnt really seem promote efficient scavenging of waste gasses through the exhaust ports. The gas on the inlet side of the chamber looks like it has to work really hard to squeese past the spark plug and out the exhaust. Does this matter? Again, i know nothing about this topic. Just from a laymans point of view. PS. What are squish/Quench zones by the way? Thanks, Shaun.

Yeah, sorry, i think i introduced the detonation problem in #6 to this topic; i understand its quite a different problem, especially in my case. I was just mentioning that i think i may have been the victim of several of these circumstances acting at the same time on #6. Still costs a sh1tload though! Turbine, thanks for your input. Ill have to have a closer look at my gasket and block at home. I just dismissed the problem you mentioned because the super dooper head gasket goo (cant remember what its called) appeared to have an even and uniform thickness on the gasket when it came off. I still dont understand about the exhaust manifold though. Thanks, Shaun.

Turbine and GTRGeoff, Number 6 piston showed signs of detonation which, im told, resulted in the head gasket failing. The engine was seeing 1.2 Bar @ 3000rpm (turbine housing too small) and apparently this introduced excessive heat into the cylinder. Im sure that this was just the straw that broke the camels back, and i was the victim of several unlucky circumstances which i wont continue to mention. Im assurred that the head was torqued up to ARP specs, but what else would they say?! The engine was quite dirty inside the water jackets; my mistake due to lack of coolant. This is a mistake that i wont make again because the rusty water inside the bore after #6 blowing, pitted the cylinder and neccessitated a rebore which meant my pistons were now useless. I certainly didnt think that would happen within 2 days! Ill include a pic of the bore. Turbine, i dont understand what you mean by "Check to see if your aftermarket exhaust manifold does not crash into the block on the water jaket channel directly under the header flange". O ringing would be a good idea, but it shouldnt be neccessay for my application, as im only after about 320rwkw. Thanks for your thoughts, Shaun.

Thanks, ill join then. VRS thats funny.

How do i become a financial member??? Also, forgive my stupidity, but what does VRS stand for? Been racking my brains all day!! Thanks, Shaun. PS. Was this for an RB26 (32 or 33). Dont you have an RB25?

On my cars first dyno tune they just blew a Tomie head gasket on number 6. Engine is an RB26 with an aftermarket single turbo manifold. I think im going to weld bungs on the exhaust manifold (at least on #1 and #6 runner) so that we can use sensors to tune each cylinder perfectly with the Autronic SM4. This would be using #1 (at least) as the control cylinder. Can anyone see a problem with this? As for the manifolding, screwed if i know what causes the problems. Maybe its a combination of many things; #6 runs hotter (further from water pump etc). Shaun.