RB30-POWER

All the DET engines run the same belt if im not mistaken. EDIT: should have also mentioned, because of the reduced ignition timing on this NA engine, i would be keeping a real close eye on the exhaust temps. don't want to end up melting stuff.

33's have the same thing. Not sure about 34's? If i had to guess i reckon it might be a diagnostic plug they use on the production line to check everything was wired up correctly, before it leaves the plant. But thats only a complete guess.

they aren't design faults they are manufacturing faults, so its not exactly Holdens fault. if you look on the govt recalls website you will find even Porsches get recalled for problems, and thats just one example.

from memory this was discussed once before, at the time it was cheaper or more economical to buy and entire Nissan VRS kit with the seals as well as all other gaskets. to buy 24 seals adds up real quick. prices may have changed, although i doubt it, a quick call to Nissan will confirm it either way.

single 044 is good for 400rwkw, you must be going for massive power? if it helps the bosch ratings are 044 - 15.5Amps cont max current 040 - 11.0Amps cont max current should be able to work your relay and fuse ratings from there.

yeah 950rpm is target idle for rb26 when engine warm. if you fiddle with anything to try and drop therpm below this the aac valve will just open more and compensate to maintain 950 +or- 50rpm

thats normal, not sure what its for however. its usually taped up with the loom so its hard to tell its even there.

Link make two products that may be of interest to you. http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/KnockLink http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/KnockBlock

im fairly sure if you take it to someone with a Nissan compatible scan tool they would be able to extract the codes for you. try Nissan, just because its an import it shouldn't matter all nissan use the same type of diagnosis output from the diagnostic socket.

the best thing to do is get a dyno run with the solonoid disconnected, then do another dyno run with it connected to a +12V supply. then overlap the two graphs and look for the points that overlap, and program the microtech to switch it on/off at those points in the rev range with one of the outputs. (just use an rpm switched output, will depend on model microtech however)

If you go off this is might actually de-activate a little earlier at 4500rpm, 5700rpm for non-turbo models, either way up top its off. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

on at 1050rpm off at 5700rpm, is the basic operation of the solonoid.

it will not be ball bearing if it has the rb30et core. you will need to modify the dump pipe as it has the wastegate flap built into it and the pipe will face the wrong way on the rb25 manifold. you would need to redrill the oil feed lines which more then likely will not directly bolt up to the et turbocharger core. it doesn't make economical sense to fit that turbo to your vehicle. sure it will make the power depending on wheel trim/size but not worth all the stuffing around.

sad thing is, i can see morons buying these things... it could only be as an image thing as they are crap offroad, the average land cruiser is better as a 4x4, sure hummer 1 had a purpose, but they shouldn't be on the roads and if your going to get a rice mobile 5 cyl hummer 3, why bother... just to prove the point, heres a vid for your enjoyment!

thats at all 4 yeah? seems low for power at rear wheels only...

you should see the guage bouncing back and forth from rich to lean when in closed loop mode as its aiming to acheive an average afr of 14.7:1. when you are under high load or wot, it should go into the rich zone and when the de-accelerate it should go lean or off altogether as the injectors are cut off.

Yeah it will be the injector leaking from the body o-ring between the plastic top and metal body. It’s an unserviceable part and will require replacement ASAP if you wish to prevent a fire hazard. Either get a new one or get a s/hand one and get it ultrasonically clean before putting it into your engine. From memory the rb20 injectors are a 270cc high impedance type.

so for the people who have these how much boost are you making when the two step is enabled? i know with most aftermarket ecu 2 steps you configure the amount of ignition retard, amount of extra fuel and rpm for operation and can make big boost on big turbo's for launch, but how configurable or useful are these standalone types that you are all discussing?

there will be a leak in the system if it was working good but not anymore. don't expect just to pay a regas charge, because you will be in the same situation in a few months when the gas leaks out again. most ac places will do a uv and gas leak check for $44-$66 and let you know what needs replacing from there. there is only one gas that should be used that is R134A.

what intercooler do you have? have you measured for any pressure drops across it at all?

there was a article in zoom or hpi a few years back about this exact topic, anyone remember it. i could dig it up if you want?

put a wideband o2 sensor up the exhaust and check mixtures, maybe its lean or too rich? also are the fue lines on the correct way on the rail entry/exit connections?

if you are replacing the CAS, get a complete dizzy from a series 3 R31 skyline, these models have the Mitsubishi CAS and are a completely reliable unit. the Hitachi CAS from the VL and aftermarket chinese copies are going to continue to cause you trouble. you need the complete dizzy because the Mitsubishi CAS is slightly different and will not go into your existing distributor, you will also need the Mitsubishi rotor as well. the caps are interchangeable however.