RB30-POWER

The only people that will tell you an RB20 is any good are the owners that are either in denial or haven't seen the light of the larger displacement RB motors. I don't care if you have an RB20 with a T78, give me a stock RB25 anyday, way more fun! The again, there is only two real RB motors, 1. RB30DET (do it with cubes) 2. RB26DETT (do it with revs) See the light of the above motors and don't look back RB20 was probally good for the jap taxi's though

shouldn't you look at torque moreso? you want a huge torque curve from idle to redline, big and flat! (haha well your not gunna get torque from idle on a small capacity RB) but the idea remains, huge wide torque band/curve for quick times.

i used the part no, gts25 stated about 6 months ago in a thread. got two tensioners for my RB30DET conversion for $40 each from the local bearing shop. bargain!

To leave them twice the length would be silly. Trim it so it looks tidy, lines run in a good spot, allows enough length for body flex, maybe moved to another car one day etc. But double the length, no way!

If you can built electronics i would consider the Jaycar electronic boost controller. For <$200 you have a great boost controller. Just a little more fiddlier to setup however, once its set how often do you really fiddle with the boost settings. It has two boost maps that are switchable as well.

For $5k i would get RB25DET, Exhaust, PowerFC (if you can do the work yourself) More cubes = more fun then the dunger RB20. (No offense to RB20 owners) RB25DET say 2.5k for a good one, exhaust say 1k, powerfc say 1k = $500 left for little bits and pieces. Need to be wise with your money, wasting it on RB20 is crazy, start with a better base, and besides you only want it to turn the treads better, well the RB25 will sure do that! Standard gearbox and clucth will be fine with this mild combo.

Put it back on standard boost and it won't do that. Its the way the standard ecu is mapped. So that when the ecu measures more air flow then standard you go onto a higher load point that is mapped with lots of fuel and no ignitition timing. Only real way around it is to go buy a PowerFC if you want more then standard boost. The oil pressure sender is on the oil-water cooler behind the oil filter on the engine block. It has a yellow plug on it generally.

Just don't tune the air fuel ratios right on the edge and it will be fine. Leave it a little richer to make up for different manifold runner flows. (which should have been done anyway with stock plenum)

Yeah, in left pass kick for all skyline ecu's. Open the unit and see if the main chip is hard soldered to the board (i.e factory) or if it has a chip and socket on the board. (i.e chipped)

To put it as simple as i can. It sounds like your mechanic is switched on and you should be able to trust what he says. Everything he has said so far makes perfect common sense in modifying your R33. I like that he has recommended a high flow panel filter rather then a crappy pod filter, and also the point that he makes about aftermarket BOV stuffing up the air flow meter signal is also correct. Listen to your mechanic, have a read around these forums and you will not go wrong.

Is that in comparison to the other dump that is for sale in the link above? Or you mean in comparison to the entire dump/engine pipe combo? I was referring to the link in particular not the entire combo pipe that batmbl sells.

depends on if you let the clutch slip.

General light load driving is done in closed loop mode. The car relies on O2 sensor for mixture feedback. Therefore it shouldn't run rich at all. And High load driving will be using open loop fuel maps, that are fixed values, apart from enrichment values, therfore it shouldn't run any richer either. You must have other problems mate

You can get them $70 cheaper here. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-RB20-RB25-R...1QQcmdZViewItem

Until you have selected a good size turbo, I wouldn't waste time thinking about a plenum.

Too true that. The 3" will have the potential to increase economy as your removing restriction that would usually require more engine power wasted to push the exhaust gas out the restrictive exhaust. Unless the standard car has a blocked cat, the gains will be neglible as i don't think the standard exhaust it that restrictive at stock power levels.

Should be getting around 8L/100km with an RB on the freeway regardless of mods.

Remove it anyway, its only a restriction.

haha, nice work.

NGK bcpr6es 0.8mm gap bcpr6es-11 1.1mm gap a few bucks each plug at most.

As long as you can drive and launch the GTR to its potential, you should do it rather easily. Do it wrong though, and your gunna want some good power to catch up.

So true. I've always said the Wolf3D can give good results. But its very complex and time consuming to setup thanks to all the options. Some good base map values for particular engines and recommended values for injector voltage, air temp, water temp compensation would make it much more friendly. Not to mention the end user that pays the tuner for his time to configure all these things, that are already pre-programmed with the likes of the PowerFC

What exactly is a T04Z when compared to say GT35/40 1.06? Bigger, smaller, much the same?

Would go PowerFC anyday of the week myself. However Wolf have been used with great sucess in a number of WA GTR's.

to test it, maybe do the spring tension up really tight, so that it can't open and see if the idle changes, otherwise check all other hose clamps etc are tight on any plumbing/piping that is after the air flow meter. make sure none are split either.