RB30-POWER

FYI, Nissan don't recommend any ethanol blend fuel in Nissan cars made before 2004.

haha, ok then... there is some freak motors out there i know

run enough boost and big enough turbo, and it will help cover up the restriction. i bet if roy got a set of cams on the same boost, his power will skyrocket.

OK, for RB20DET it is as follows. 2.5k ohm when cold (20degC) 0.3k ohm when warm (80degC) Hope that helps

if you have standard cams the power will drop off at 6500rpm. its not the manifolds.

inlet temps are satisfactory? to head for 300rwkw with the standard 25 housing would have to be asking for a bit? it sounds a little like, when cubes had the RB20 turbo on the 3L, the tuner had to remove a heap of timing up top because of the back pressure to prevent detonation.

pin 18 on the RB25 ecu is the output for fuel pump relay if it helps to confirm all your connections.

It should be setup something like this. 85 (-12V GND from ECU fuel pump terminal) 86 (+12V IGN switched) 87 (+12V to the fuel pump terminal) 30 (+12V supply from battery with fuse/fusable link) So what will happen is, when the ecu switches the pump on (nissan usually ground relay for pump) it switches the low current coil in the relay, allowing high current from battery from pin 30 on the relay through to terminal pin 87 into the pump. when the ecu turns the pump off (opens pin 85) the relay will open and stop pumping fuel.

Head porting even though you may make the ports larger can actually decrease performance as well. Bigger isn't really always better. Its all about the correct angles and so forth to the valves to acheive the correct gas velocity etc etc In the book 21st Century Performance it makes it very clear that with good 4 valve per cylinder heads its far easier to actually bugger the ports up then gain extra performance. So make sure the guy that ports it, has done numerous RB heads before and have been proven on drag/track cars. You dont just want some hack job, where they are bigger but it hasn't helped torque or whatever it is that you actually want the porting to acheive. Its a little like bigger valves, bigger valves can actually impede gas flow rather help it. The factory isn't dumb, they are the ones who have paid millions of dollars in research and CAD design to come out with the best compromise . More so then the average joe blow performance guy has anyway. Just to think your gunna open the ports and gain power is dead set crazy! Thats why the people who do know how to gain real performance from porting will charge huge dollars, because they have destroyed and tested numerous heads for research into what works and what doesn't.

All the RB are the same. Commence open at 76.5degC Fully open at 90degC Just go to Nissan, and they should confirm that the RB20DET part no. is the same as the RB30 R31 Skyline. Genuine Nissan is cheaper then aftermarket thermostats anyway i have found. So you will have to make a trip there anyway

does the handbrake use shoes on the inside of the disk, or does it screw the piston on the caliper in like the R31 does? unsure of the type of h/brake system the R30 uses, so can't offer exact advise? what your saying is one side is working while the other isnt?

if you said that happened on your LS1 commodore, i would say thats normal however on your RB, to use oil like that you have a serious problem somewhere.

if the ignitor is faulty, because its a seperate transistor for each coil, its unlikely the entire lot will stop firing, more then likely it will develop a miss on one cylinder. if the entire cars stops and wont start until it cools, i would be looking strongly at the crank angle sensor myself. once you lose your crank signal, you lose injection and spark to every cylinder.

highly unlikely as when the motor is running the alternator is still putting out >12V

so the shortage won't effect the east coast then? our BP on the e coast is really just Shell with BP additives right?

When the car is running, the huge amount of air being sucked by the radiator fan has to be pulled through the radiator and pushed out. Possibly past your IC piping? Like my brothers cars has the piping running across the bottom of the engine, and because it does this all the air being pulled through the radiator gets pushed out through the bottom of the engine bay, right across the piping and it gets very hot. Took me a little while to work out once, as the piping was very hot, yet the cooler was cool as, then i worked out the hot air that was getting pushed by the fan was basically super heating it. (Will be fixed soon, inlet plenum inlet on other side, so IC piping doesn't have to go across the engine bay)

Might have to get Opticrap instead then...

Whats it learning when you drive with the motor fully loaded? Has it got a dyno strapped to the wheels and says, lets make some more power. this guy is up it, lets add an extra 10deg timing. lol The ecu might be able to learn basic crap like, closed loop fuel injection pulse widths and a target/estimated aac idle control valve values for idle jugement etc. Knock sensing is going to be preety active, and just add the timing back in gradually (if not at every ign key off) If it pulls it out its for a reason. Either way thats stating what it may be able to learn in the best possible case scenario. Im still unsure of what flogging it makes it learn, the only time it can get feedback is in closed loop, light cruise driving from the O2 sensor, and it can check target idle speed to actual idle speed from the CAS. It can't learn that you want it to make an extra 100hp at the wheels.

Hmm, you have injection and spark, but only running on 5. Maybe there is a big hole in the piston and no compression? Sounds stupid, but are the plugs from the wiring harness connected to the correct number injector and number coil? Usually there is enough wire length for cylinders that are side by side to be put on back the front.

You can put a test light or test led onto the injector connector and see if its actually pulsing?

Have you actually tested spark output from Coil/Cyl 1? If you don't have spark it will be a faulty ignitor module (on top of cam cover at rear of motor). The ignitor module has a transistor for each cylinder that switches the coil on and off for spark! So if the transistor is stuffed for Cyl 1 it will never spark. It could also be a faulty/broken wire that goes into the module as well for cylinder 1. If you measure +12 on both sides of the injector plug i would say the injector drivers are fine. (To confirm injector operation, its easiest to measure the duty cycle (with capable multimeter) of the injector whilst running, to confirm its opening)

M&W is the go over MSD apparently. Im yet to see anyone thats serious about spark even mention the MSD units.

doesnt the cdi unit supply like 500V to the primary side of the coil instead of the standard 12V? i cant beleive the standard coils will like that for long. whats the spark energy from the average CDi unit? its about 40kV output versus standard ignition of about 10-20kV correct? plus the multiple sparking will be a bonus.

you dont want to use the standard coils anyway. you want to get rid of all the weak links in the chain.

It won't effect it as thats what the thermostat controls.