RB30-POWER

Whats the weight of one of those trucks? Can't see an RB25 having the required displacment for an enjoyable and fun ride myself. Maybe look at a Lexus V8 or something. If you want something that has a bit of "tech" associated with it.

I say do it. Ricers always seem to make my day, well, provide plenty of laughter anyway... Some of the things they do :bonk:

I can't see why you cant just leave it, but remove the plug and wiring from the solonoid. All the solonoid does when +12 is supplied is move a plunger that blocks the oil drain forcing the oil to go into the cam gear and advance the mechanism. If you don't provide the solonoid with power it will just drain all the oil as it does when its not engaged.

The ecu will be going into the rich and retarted load points of the factory ecu maps from the increased boost over standard that your running. Three Options. 1, Turn boost down to a lower pressure. 2, Get a SAFC and trim the AFM output to fool the ecu. (Bit of a band-aid approach) 3, Get a PowerFC or equivalent aftermarket ecu and get it tuned and get gains in all areas of the powerband. The factory ecu's a real pain in the nut sack, when you try to make more power then standard.

Out of interest was the locally delivered GTR ecu's de-tuned for aussie fuel or not?

Try the high temp 1500+ VHT Exhaust Manifold and Header Paint. If this doesn't work nothing will. On saying that all the paint, i've seen used on exhaust systems usually flakes and comes off eventually. Especially on turbo charged vehicle exhaust systems.

If its cracked and actually leaking exhaust gas and pressure. Your turbo will be alot more laggy. I remember once when i had a loose manifold that was leaking a little, after i re-torqued it up to spec and stopped the leak. The improvment in reponse from less lag was incredible. It will all depend on how much its leaking as to how much it effects your performance, but either way leaking exhaust gases are a bad thing.

Most people here would agree that the PowerFC that can be purchased sub 1K delivered from Japan, would be best value and offer the most factory type reliability and drivability. Wolf 3D also do plug in ECU for the Skyline at $1395 with hand controller. It comes down to what the tuner can tune best.

Yes its true. Upping the boost with standard management takes the ecu into a rich and retarted area of the fuel and ignition maps. You basically, just get flats spots if you increase boost with standard management. With an aftermarket ecu you can up the boost and tune the entire map to pick up more response and power throughout the entire rev range then compared to the factory ecu.

If they did that they would be broke. It was costing to much to use the RB motor, especially when the dollar and yen value changed at the same time. It was just not financially viable. An RB25DE would never move a commodore around. Might have twin cams but thats all. No outright torque which is required. Ford was the biggest competition for Holden at the time and when they released the VN, even though it had the nasty buick V6 engine, it became one of holdens best selling models ever.

They couldn't be much heavier then any RB? As the RB are iron block as against alloy LS1.

What you see is what I have for sale at this point in time. No it is designed for R31 models only. Piping is 2.5" mandrel, its either mild steel with some protective coating on it, or it may be stainless. Fairly sure its mild steel but could be staino under the coating. Unsure what its off, just have it here and im cleaning out the shed.

The pressure will rise with engine revs. And also it will read higher when the oil is cold. What your seeing is probally normal?

The coolant temp sensor on the RB engines is on the inlet manifold. There is two, one for the dash guage and the second is for the ECU. None of them are mounted on the radiator as atmo32 claims.

There is no room to get a puller behind it. You have to drill a row of small holes along the gear from the front to the back. And drill the same holes on the opposite side of the gear. Then get a cold chisel and wack it. If you drilled the holes deep enough, it will instantly split in to, two sections. Just use a piece of tape as a depth guage, so you dont drill into the crank itself. Hope that helps a little.

Those need to be plumbed into a catch can, if they are exposed you will get oil and other crap out of them under big boost. If you have excessive amount of oil coming out under low boost pressure, you would have excessive blowby from the combustion chamber. Rings, clearances worn/wrong etc etc

Ahh ok, your talking internal return drains... I was refering to the extra external head oil drain that is shown in the above photo from Skyrine-Dave, that is blocked off.

Cubes, If you have two, one must be tapped as an extra, this pic shows the single drain from the turbo. (Why would the RB30ET have two, it doesn't need two?)

Skyrine-Dave, What size oil retrictors are you using in the block (head oil restrictors) and the VCT feed line?

The Series 2 block does not have an extra oil drain. It has one only! That plate that is covered is the extra drain that most people are plumbing into the turbo oil drain for simplicitys sake. I would be suprised if it was the problem. But plumb it back for peace of mind.

Carbon hot spots on the pistons or maybe a single faulty fuel injector not injecting enough fuel under high pulse widths from being clogged. Thats the only reasons i can see why it would ping consistantly regardless of timing settings etc. Both these situations are rare but very possible and a hard to identify. Sounds like your mechanic has checked all the other basics. Fuel pressure, Inlet temperature, cam timing, exhaust back pressure etc etc? Really need to know a bit more about what setup you are running to help more?

I've seen people with it crimped shut. However i guess its there for a reason, so i always tee it into the turbo oil return for simplicitys sake. I reckon fark all oil probally goes down it anyway, always seem dry. Head has an internal drain gallery anyway. I think its more for the extra oil from the VCT supply that needs draining away, as the non-vct heads don't have it.

What oil do you have in the box? Should be something like Castrol VMX80 or equivalent. That oil is designed for boxes that have cold shifting problems. (i.e. Nissan boxes)

250rwkw is not do-able on a standard turbo, injectors and management. I was simply refering to the fact the RB25 will make that power without having head gasket issues, which was asked about above. Who would waste time with a standard turbo in the hunt for power anyway.

If only i got a dollar for everytime this was asked...