RB30-POWER

It obviously has a bad tune if it stalls. Simple as that. I dont care how worked the motor is, they can all be tuned to drive nicely with the right hardware.

I should have also added, a late model gtr is out of your price range obviouslly and i see an early model as going to be fairly high in cost maintenance wise, and i see an R33 GTST as just more of the same compared to what you currently have. You obviouslly want a change or else you wouldnt be asking. Atleast give the wrx a looking into. My 2c is over now, this second post was just the gst content

I would go the wrx myself. Attracts less attention and goes harder around corners. Not to mention the re-sale is fairly good. And being a local car your insurance company will love you. Thats only me, i will also mention im seriously looking into a my99/00 wrx myself at the moment too.

For that price it might be worth persisting with. Get another workshop to test the oil pressure with an externally connected guage to confirm what the first workshop has said. Secondly, confirm how bad the rust is in the boot. If its surface rust, you should be able to clean it all up and re-prime/seal and paint it to stop further problems. Other major place for rust in skylines is under the rear wheel guards, make sure there isn't any rust there, by inspecting feeling underneath or looking for the rust bubbles in the paint work itself. If it costs you for another inspection it still has to be better then risking it and buying a lemon if your not fully clued up on car mechanical and physical condition yourself.

RB20 heads and RB25 heads are not interchangeable. The RB20 has a smaller bore and also the water galleries are all out the shit, between them.

Could you confirm if these gauages are electric or mechanical. If electric do they come with all the required senders?

You would really want to get it at a bargain price with the above issues, and the possibility of an engine rebuild if it fails. Sounds a bit rough, unless its priced well below 10k stay away.

Since its such a hard decision between the two. Just get the R31

haha, i give this thread about another 24hours. it wouldn't be a BOV thread if things don't turn to shit suprisingly it has been fairly civilized so far, compared to others, i've seen...

Under light load the rings/pistons will tend to sit more central and run up and down the bores more evenly then when the motor is under load as then they will be harder against one side of the bore then the other. (This is why new motors need to be put under good load to bed the rings) So i guess light to moderate load is more important then revs alone.

Very hard to tune engines with individual t/bodys and big cams with a Speed Density Type Engine Management arrangement. One reason why most GTR still use AFM (usually upgraded but) Even though there is none/very little manifold vac/erattic vac for the map sensor to measure accurately the AFM is able to measure the actual air entering the engine and report that output to the ECU very accurately. If your not looking at running AFM arrangement, which it sounds like your not. Then much as you said. Its probally best to tune small throttle openings or non boost pressure throttle openings against throttle position, then change to the map sensor as the motor produces boost or positive pressure, which can be measured and map against sucessfully. Can't say im familiar with the Pectel T6 managment system, but i find it hard to beleive that the Motec would not be capable of doing what you want to do. Motec are GOD (You will pay though)

I always start my car, wait for oil pressure, usually a few seconds, then drive. I try to keep the revs under 4000 until its up to full operating temp. But it will warm up quicker by driving it straight away, then just letting it sit there idling. While its cold sitting there you will cause more damage and wear then getting it up to temp as soon as possible. Either way, todays oils are very good at all temps. So just start and drive. Anyone that sat there car and didnt drive it until the temp was up would be a true fruitcake.

Im going to add my 2c. BOV are used on all late model cars for a couple of reasons. First, having the BOV recirculate the air on throttle closings prevents the air from rushing back out the AFM and being measured twice which can cause overfuelling and bad emissions, where emmisions are a major part of todays tuning requirements The second reason is that if you recirulate the air, it will stop the flutter and minimise noise. Imagine how many people would take their cars back and whinge to the manufacturer if it made strange noise on gear changes etc etc. All that noise is not something that is needed on a nice new performance vehicle. As for it effecting turbolife, im not a big believer. Once you close the throttle, the turbo looses it speed almost immediately with no exhaust gases pushing the turbine wheel. So even if the air flow coming back out throught the compressor blades did aid it in slowing down, its going to be stuff all in the scheme of things. Once the exhaust gas stops the turbine slows exremely rapidly.

The emanage is just an interceptor at the end of the day, no more, no less. Bloody expensive one at that too... Get a full standalone ecu such as PowerFC and dont look back.

The ECU has a constant backup 12V. If you remove the fuse you will remove the power that runs the ecu, but not the power that backups the memory function.

The SAFC won't rich and retard if you have the AFM voltage clamped with the interceptor. Thats the idea. of it. Don't allow the ECU to see the real voltage. It will still have active knock control though. If you have a AFM with enough resolution, you could tune the PFC to use lots of fuel and retarted timing if the airflow goes over a certain map point not usally seen on the standard boost pressure. So it can be tuned with overboost protection to some degree. In fact it will work just like the standard ecu, except you would set the zone higher on the map.

Pipes are as you see them. Just cleaning out the shed and found them. They have been made by hand as the pieces are welded if that clears things up. Not to sure what car they fit.

Hey Guys, I have a few items for sale, Firstly, I have a standard RB20DET turbocharger. Mint condition, no shaft play, spins very smoothly, comes with actuator as seen in the pic. $190 (inc delivered anywhere in Aus) Second is a custom R31 heatshield. Don't allow your POD filter to suck in hot underbonnet air. This was bolted up with the RB30ET inlet snorkel, however it could be easily used on an NA if you use the VL platic inlet pipe instead of the standard R31 inlet, which comes up from the bottom, instead of the side. Comes with brackets, just needs to be screwed to your standard air box bracket. $130 (inc delivered anywhere in Aus) Thirdly, I have some miscellaneous ic piping for sale. has extra injectors and BOV mount. Not sure exactly what its off, but looks like some skyline. Handy for someone im sure. $80 (inc delivered anywhere in Aus) Lastly I have a standard RB20 crossover pipe as seen in pics. $25 (inc delivered anywhere in Aus)

15deg btdc @ 700rpm is standard timing on RB20

Usually you will lose torque wherever it is retarted. Which obviously has an effect on power output as well. The ignition timing needs to be advanced to the point of best mean torque or peak combustion pressures in the cylinders without detonation. Also with retarted timing, you get worse fuel consumption. I would only retard the static timing if your car was pinging because of a larger turbo or something. Otherwise set it to standard.

I wouldn't consider it an upgrade. Not worthwhile anyway, when you have to factor in the cost of a new dump/engine pipe to bolt up and modify the compressor outlet piping to suit that turbo. Without seeing it, my guess is its a non-ballbearing turbo as well, looking at the design of it. Invest your money in another turbo would be a better choice.

Optioned with a smaller housing it should make some good power, however it will still be a bit laggy on the street at lower RPM on an RB20.

The PowerFC is a complete standalone managment solution. It can take you anywhere you want to go, with regards to engine mods. The SAFC is just an interceptor module, bit like a bandaid solution. However can work sucessfully for minor gains. In your case, if you want more power, the SAFC probally won't be able to get your motor much above the 200rwkw mark. As the ignition and fuelling will be way out of spec. Once your AFM maxes out you cant extend the injection time which will be needed with more boost.

The microtech is a downgrade in my opinion on the RB series motors. They are such a refined piece of gear that when run by a less then great management system makes the entire car/engine a real pain to drive and live with. A better match for the your RB engine would be a PowerFC or Motec. I've seen even really well respected tuners and workshops tune Microtechs on the RB and unless you spend lots of hours on tuning/cold start etc etc you may never get a factory type operation. PowerFC is designed to work with all factory sensors and already comes pre-programmed for cold starts etc. Regardless of the above though, the symptons you described could be mostly ironed out by a decent tuner.

You should think about this for a minute too. If you make a RB20 2.3/2.4L you will still have the standard RB20DET head, where the standard valves will cause a potential restriction with the larger capacity motor. If you got a standard RB25, already you have extra capacity, and a fair increase in valve size. If you have the smaller 20DET head with the larger capacity, its a sort of flawed idea from the beginning. Only my 2c. If you want effortless torque and power build a RB30DET. (You will never look back at smaller displacment motors again)