RB30-POWER

VG30 is about 7 psi RB20 is about 10psi RB25 is about 5psi Therfore get a 25 actuator and you can use your boost controller anywhere from 5psi upwards. VG30 won't fit as the bend in the actuator arm won't clear the compressor outlet. (the outlet is orientated a different way on the VG30)

autospeed.com.au did an article a few weeks back but instead of pvc pipe, they used copper pipe that slips together and you braze/solder it. apparently before it all went pvc, copper was mainly used and is still available from good plumbing stores. i was suprised at how cheap the article claimed that the copper pipe was too. worth checking out.

I have read that, there is a very common issue with the PowerFc. The PowerFC draws more current then the standard supply line can carry. Once you upgrade the 12V supply to the ECU it will work no dramas. If you run a search, im sure it would be covered on this forum.

I've seen plenty of cars pull 180-200rwkw. But usually with a little more boost than standard and a fuel cut defender or SAFC. Maybe your ecu is chipped from Japan or has a fuel cut defender spliced in somewhere? They can make the power easy, you just have to get past the rich and retard thing that the standard ecu does.

With regards to the upgraded fuel pump. You should be able to install it and have no impact on your current ecu and power. As the fuel pressure regulator will just bleed/bypass any extra fuel the new pump delivers to the fuel rail, keeping standard rail pressure.

I have to believe the figure because it was done by a ShootOut accredited workshop. However it sounds very high for standard boost pressure (7psi) and just exhaust and cooler considering it came with 187fwkw. Was it dyno'd in 4th gear? Either way great result, congrats.

The RB30 water pump has the same bolt pattern and will bolt up. (Its the RB25 that has a different bolt and won't bolt up) But does it have the same impeller? If its different you may get cavatation at high rpm on RB20. The RB30 revs to 6400rpm where as the RB20 revs to 8000rpm. Just a thought, that the impeller may be different, haven't actually inspected a 20DET pump alongside the RB30 so i can't say.

Highly unlikely to be the the turbo if it is still generating boost. Probally a vacuum leak from cracked hose, loose clamp etc etc.

Thick gaskets and decompression plate are a bad idea. They alter the factory squish zones and can cause more detonation then having the factory compression ratio which may be higher. Be careful if you got that way.

The coil has a spring loaded type connector that contacts the plug. With the BCP plugs, you don't even need to apply much pressure to get the coil down and bolted to the plate/retainer. (If that makes sense) So i dont think its under any stress. The spring will take up a good few mm easy. I dont think this is the problem with cracking at all.

What sort of car is it?

This thread has got nothing to do with how much they flow. We are discussing wether they actually work at reducing emissions.

:werd:

Last few highflow cats i bought were Magnaflow. On the box it says they are EPA and CARB qualified. Thats enough for me to be happy that they will work as a catalytic converter. I imagine they could get in serious crap if they claimed this on packaging and it wasn't true. Surely CATCO and MAGIC should have EPA and CARB papers to prove they work? Can anyone here provide papers for either of the cats in question? Do they state what standards they meet on the packaging?

PINK is Series 2 RB25 AFM To confirm that it is standard series 2 item, it will have a 3 pin plug.

Do you have the idle rpm correct when checking the timing, think its 15deg btdc @ 600rpm. Also make sure the TPS is working correctly and registering that the motor is at idle/throttle closed, or else it may use an advanced timing value. (Bit like a limp mode)

Is it running standard boost pressure?

If the car is unregistered and uninsured it shouldn't be on the road, fullstop. Not sure what you are whinging about. You have a few months to get car rego'd/inspected. no excuse.

a knock sensor is just a piezo microphone basically so it can certainly pick up driveline noise as well as just engine noise. on a standard car with a standard ecu it is calibrated to tell the difference between detonation and other background noise frequencies. once you change parts from standard its possible to introduce frequencies into the system that the sensor picks up as detonation, when it may not be.

not sure how they would leak. they are designed to have equal pressure on both sides on the diaphragm when under boost, therfore remain closed. they will open under idle/low vacuum but nothing wrong with having them recirculating under those conditions anyway. bov market is a joke.

My VVT inlet cam was dead centre, I've heard advancing or retarding cant remember which helps makes the motor a little peakier on the rb30 bottom end anyway. A few of the NA RB25/30 guys have changed the setting. Either way i just left mine centred/factory setting, no use in just guesssing without a dyno.

Its a RB20 turbocharger guaranteed. All the markings/numbers identify it as an RB20 turbo, plus you can tell just by looking at it alone. Housing, actuator, flanges etc etc. Its an RB20

They do open under idle as one side has vacuum on it from the plenum (the hose your talking about). This is normal. The system is designed to do this. Almost all OEM bov fitted cars are designed to recirculate on idle. When you 0 vacuum or boost, the boost from the plenum line will push on top of the bov and keep it closed because the pressure on top of the bov and in the crossover are equal.

If you remove the vacuum/boost feed line from the top of the BOV it will leak under boost. You need that connected to equalize the pressure on both sides of the bov diaphragm. If not you have boost/positive pressure pushing on the bov piston inside the crossover and no pressure on the other side to eqalize the pressure and keep it closed. Without that it will open and let boost out. Hence you getting less boost. Not to sure why your messing with it anyway. Messing with it will only cost performance at the end of the day.

3.7:1 are great with these motors. Stacks of torque, any diff gearing lower then that (higher numerically) is really a waste, unless you can spin it to 8k. 3.7:1 allow 100km/h at around 6k or so in second gear on my brothers R31 with the 25/30DET. Although i think the 3.45:1 in my 30ET VL are preety good as well, the 3.7:1 give a slight advantage down low, without sacrificing the top speed available from each gear. Gearbox ratio's may be a little different in the R32/R33 so you would have to take that into consideration as well.