RB30-POWER

ROFL!

Its output corresponds to the volume of air going through the meter at that particular time. Maximum air flow (maximum afm voltage) usually occurs at maximum boost pressure and at the point where the VE (volumetric efficiency-where the motor consumes most air.) of the motor is the greatest. This is usually where peak torque is delivered. Bigger cams change the point where maximum VE can occur, bigger cams will move this point up the rev range, naturally. Back to what you were saying its output is the volume of air going through the meter at that particular second. Im not to sure how quick the AFM can actually sample and change its output, it would be almost instantly, lag would be in ms, i would be guessing. It would have to have some lag, for the change in the hot wire temp to change. But yeah, AFM are the most accurate way of measuring actual air going into the motor. Maps sensors just don't compare.

They are rated between 0-5V (But in reality they cut around the 5.12 mark) The injector duty cycle should be measured with a multimeter that has "Duty Cycle" function, or other tool. (Measured 0-99% "on time") Yes a fuel cut defender will just hold the maximum value in order not to cut it altogether, but of course, if it takes more air than the amount the AFM measures it will lean out real quickk. Fuel Cut Defenders are so dodgy i don't know why they make them. DODGE!

Asking is probally like asking how long a piece of string is. Best way is to measure the AFM output voltage and measure the injectory duty cycle, under full boost and look for the peak readings for both measurements. With a turbo like that, my estimate is it won't be able to run much more boost than what you are already. Take it out on a cold winters night and see if you can get it to cut. The air is more dense and it will more likely cut during these conditions than a hot day. Cheers.

It isnt really the gas vented from the BOV itself, but moreso the effect it has on the engine fuel mixtures that causes the emissions concerns and problems. In the real world we all know high performance/modified cars aren't going to effect the global warming and pollution problems in any significant way whatsoever. The fact still remains, unless its a plumb-back its not legal by the authority's standards. Hell they could defect you if it was a plumbback even and it wasn't OEM fitted. To think the filter is going to do anything at all is wishful thinking, it won't help emmisions and it won't fool the coppers either. But if it does the few $ spent on the filter will be worth it. Cheers.

Cheers, yeah it makes sense that the switchoff point would be lower on the larger 3L motor. It would be taking the same air as the rb25det but much lower in the rpm range. With the stock cams anyway. Also i think the VCT side cam gear could be adjusted by the four bolts on the rear of the gear. Might get that 5 or so degrees back to standard. I have heard of people adjusting the VCT gear by this method with great results, but i don't know if the adjustment is for that purpose, or wether its to adjust the actual operation of the cam gear mechanism itself.

Also Monsta, while your around, what NVCT switchover rpm points do you have it switching over at with your setup? Somewhere like factory, on at 1500 and off around 4500?? If you don't mind sharing What works for your 3L

The Air Flow Meter/Stock Management would be maxing out is my guess, from the extra air flow? Or is it aftermarket setup? Can you rev it over 4000, if you aren't on boost?

Optimax is very ordinary. My road car pings on the crap, if its a few days old. Go Ultimate. Keep the stock gasket, but get the setup o-ringed, way more reliable. For the gasket to go, it must have been detonation anyway. Better to have a weak point to fail then have a piston damaged.

The one i posted a pic of up there, It came off a Series 2 RB25DET.

45V2 it says on the comp cover.

As soon as the battery is removed the ecu looses its power for memory function. ECU pin 58 (+12V memory function) So it should clear immediately, I really don't think the small capacitors in the ecu will need 24hours to discharge, like some people toss on about. The only thing that will reset is the O2 Closed Loop feedback correction, will take time to trim the fuel again during closed loop operation. Timing retard is done on the fly according to the knock sensors, so it doesn't need an ecu reset to get back to the original map so to speak. It will put the timing back almost immediately, after the detonation has stopped.

Here is a pic of an R33 Series 2 comp wheel. Definitely Plastic/Nylon crap, guess thats why its black too, not shiny alloy stuff.

They probally want it locked so you don't see their poor tuning maps. Hell it may not even be tuned at all? Have you tested at WSID again

This here is from the RB26 manual, I can put up the RB25 as well, but its the same. I beleive the manuals you have have been translated incorrectly from Japanese.

I have a Nissan manuals in front of me as well, both the RB26 and RB25 manual says its from the centre out to tighten? Surely this makes sense, as its the same sequence to what a cylinder head is tightened. If you went from the outside in, the camshaft could bind and snap. (Technically possible, but realistically unlikely if the head isn't warped and the cam is still pulled down evenly) Would you like it posted up here?

Yep spot on, do it in stages to pull the camshafts down evenly, not just it one hit.

The installation order is from the middle cam cap and work outwards (total 14 bolts). Removal sequence is from the outside and work in. Hope that clarifies.

If you meant the cam bracket bolts and baffle plates under the covers. It is 9.0-12 Nm Starting at the inside two and working your way out.

Cam cap being................... rocker covers? If so its 2.0-3.9 Nm Start from the middle two bolts and work your way out towards each end. Hope thats what your asking?

If you run optimax that would explain it too, but i think you have said before you run Ultimate

Same problem here, hope it is fixed asap!

I made up a rig and clamped it to the block to help guide the drill bit completely square to the front block surface. It must be absolutely right! Then tapping it you have to constantly check with a 90deg square to make sure the thread is square with the front of the block surface. I had an old block i practiced on first. If its not absolutely correct the tensioner will sit on an angle andwear the belt and bearing, it may also not have enough grip if the trnsioner doesnt sit flush against the surface and may slip in use. Someone may have a better idea but thats how i done it. Because i had a spare block i was able to test the water gallery depth so to speak. Its less than 9mm thats for sure, i had to cut the thread on the stud so it bottoms out. I done it this way, but i really don't know if use would have trouble even if you went into the gallery and just used thread sealant on it, atleast that way the stud would have more thread/grip??

Couldn't agree more, i looked at this in great detail when i built my motor, if you use the relocated tensioner the belt won't catch like it could do if you use the factory stud locations (which are way to close for this app) and with the relocated tensioner it also wraps the belt around the pullies better for more grip.

Stocky, you can't just not feed the vct from an external block source because it also feeds the front cam seal as well. If you don't hook the vct gallery up the cam and seal will be rooted very quickly. Also dont forget the front water gallery near the vct oil feed hole on the head surface needs some material added to it for a good seal. When you are getting the head reco, get them to weld the gallery up so it seals good. And because you need that welded you might as well get the old vct gallery welded as well, rather then using a grub screw/plug.