RB30-POWER

The R33 VCT is either on/off for the advance like MonstaS4 said. On the R34 Neo it is variable the amount of advance applied to the cam, not just on/off the full 20deg advance. Atleast thats my understanding. It doesn't do anything with the valves like a Honda VTEC does, it just advances/retards the inlet camshaft, much like an adjustable cam gear would do, except it isnt fixed. If that makes sense.

If you look at the factory flywheel figure then take into account the 25-30% drivetrain loss, that figure seems fairly good to me.

VL airbox wont really go close at all, sits the wrong way. R31 airbox would be closer than the VL box. Still not a direct bolt up though. Should find one at the wreckers if R33 boxes are too expensive/hard to find and you just want to get through the inspection.

And i thought the only secret to drifting was shitty tyres

Guys, Just hoping someone can answer a few questions. Does the factory R33 ECU have full sequential injection operation? How many load/map points does the ecu have? Does the unit simply retard the ignition timing X degress under detonation or does it constantly used a closed loop feedback system adding timing until detonation like a delco unit? Anyone got any tech info on the Hitachi made unit in general of its capabilities? What are the general capabilities of the ecu in say comparison to a delco unit from a late model GM car? Cheers

This thread is great. I had to dig it up again

Thinks its just fully locked out for the aftermarket managment system. Could be wrong though

Series 1 or 2 AFM?

4G63, sweet engine....

The 2J would have to be one of the best motors for street use. Sequential turbo's, yum yum. Plenty of torque available everywhere. The RB26 is more suited to the track that street, when compared to the 2J.

What mods are the maps to suit?

The typhoon, will whoop the average GTS-T easily. IMHO

You can't test O2 sensors by measuring the internal resistance. They are both 0-1V sensors (narrow band) So provided they both have the same plugs and wiring pinouts, they will work fine. The newer O2 sensors will provide a faster sample rate during closed loop operation, therfore getting maximum economy. If you know which ones have done lower km's use those ones.

Thanks for confirmation

All the ones i've looked at only have the black metal gasket. Dunno what these restrictors are must be a dodgy type of mod, lol

Can you/anyone confirm if its 1.2mm approx? Will it be a problem if its a little bit bigger anyone know?

bump. Surely someone has one of these and wants a quick sale? One guy sent me a PM about one, must have thought it was worth its weight in gold he wanted that much $$$. Another guy sent me a PM with a reasonable price, but wouldn't give me bank details to deposit the money, wtf? So if someone has one thats mint condition, wants a quick sale, PM and see what we can do. Cheers Mick

Hey Guys, Just lookin to confirm something. When i measured the restrictor in the block for the VCT feed, i reckon its about 1.2mm. If i drill it 1.5mm will it be supplied to much oil? Will it get flooded or leak out the cam seal, or will it just drain back to the sump any excess oil? If i drill it 1.0mm it probally won't be big enough and may starve it of oil and may not have the capacity to operate the VCT fucntion. What size hole did you guys drill for the restrictor? Thanks in advance Mick

Hey Guys, Im chasing the factory boost control solonoid from an R33 RB25DET engine bay. Im sure someone has one from a halfcut or one that they may not be using due to upgrade to hks/blitz boost controller etc. Let me know if you can help. Cheers Mick

Probally deserves him right, being a fool on the suburban street Lets hope he wasn't insured or else he will be back on the street in another one doing the same thing.

haha, what a pi55er...

There is only 1 seal for the oil pump.

Its called a timing sprocket plate according to Nissan. Nissan Part No. 13022 42L00 Its just a small metal disc to stop the belt sliding off. Should only be a couple of bucks. Sounds as though he stuffed it, when trying to remove the timing gear. Just confirm the part no. with Nissan before ordering.

Yeah, i would say your mech, stuffed it getting the gear off. I always just cut/split the timing gear, its too hard to get a puller behind it without damaging the oil pump. Nissan part No. 13021 42L11 RRP $47.89 Just ring whoever your local Nissan dealer is, most have a spare parts department.

The cams use the same seals as the oil pump