RB30-POWER

You won't just knock the alignment out. Something under there is bent, simple as that. Either make her pay or kick yourself for taking the risk. Back to the car though, go get a 28 point inspection at pedders or any other suspension shop for the full report.

Doesn't look to bad at all Spooks_Skyline, I like the hammer style paint that is on it.

If you can't remove the block drain plug, then remove the thermostat instead and allow it to run from the upper hose out of the lower hose. If the thermostat is left in it will be closed obviously because its cold and wont allow the old coolant to flow out. I always do it this way, removing the block drain plug is a pain in the arse...

The RB25 doesn't use a map sensor. It uses a hot wire air flow meter. If you are trying to setup the fcd, you have to intercept the air quantity signal wire from the afm to the ecu. what the fcd will do is clamp the afm at max voltage when the limit of the afm is reached so it doesn't cut completely. Just be careful as it will lean out to much if you go to much past this limit. All the boost controller solonoid does it switch from 5psi - 7psi at 4500rpm. Hope that helps some.

Most ecu's would run closed loop on idle 14.7:1 (unless you had lumpy cams you would want it richer maybe to stabilize the idle)

The early RB20 turbo's (early silver top) have a way smaller turbine housing and compressor cover and outlet when compared to the RB25 unit. Even if the units were high flowed you wouldnt have the meat to machine out of the cover that the rb25 unit has. Im led to beleive that the later series rb20det have a bigger turbo, more comparable to the rb25 unit. I say avoid them where possible, get a rb25 highflowed, should fit bigger wheels.

If you look at the schematic of the oil cooler construction, it is possible for the cooler to leak oil if the o-rings were faulty, but the water canister/water part of the system is fully sealed from the oil part of the system and therefore cannot mix under any circumstances as the water part is fully sealed by the metal construction, not o-rings or seals. If that makes sense. Therefore I don't think its possible for the cooler to be part of the problem. Have you flushed the system at all with some sort of cleaner, before re-filling it? One of my cars had all milky shit in it, i thought it was oil, but the owner before me must have put some "bars stop leak" in the system to stop a leak somewhere. It is very difficult to get the crap out of the system, it kept coming back on mine until i removed the radiator and gave it a real thorough flushing. Just a thought....

All this sounds like a big head ****, just bolt the RB26 head on in the first place.

compression test won't always reveal much unless it blown at the cylinders, which it won't be as its o-ringed, well highly unlikely anyway.... copper gaskets are well known to allow seepage between the oil and water passages though at the outer edges of the gasket/cylinder/block surface. multi layer steel gaskets aren't to bad, but copper ones can be real nightmares.

Your right about it going creamy. Ever left an oil pan out in the rain, and see what happens. Mayonaise...

If you are sure the oil and water are mixing, It would be the headgasket in my opinion. Metal gaskets of anytype are useless on a street car, where the engine temp is constantly getting cycled. Great on a racecar though! If it is o-ringed you dont need a metal gasket anyway. Get a genuine Nissan headgasket and im sure all your water problems will be resolved. The o-rings go around the cylinders, not between the coolant galleries/passages and oil galleries/passages in the head gasket, so oil and water can still mix at this point if the gasket lifts. Did you use Hylomar or something on the metal gasket?

The Nulon branded octane booster also came out on top of a recent street machine octane booster test. (Don't actually have that one handy to scan though) So if you are going to use one, i guess this one has been proven by a number of people.

Hi Luke, I've never heard/read anything about them failing. Alot of line owners here would probally be lucky to even know they have a water based oil cooler on their engines. So i don't think you will get the answer you require. But im sure if they were prone to leaking, it would be questioned on here, which i have never read about on here, which must mean they are relatively trouble free. I do think the biggest advantage over the little/moderate cooling it will do, is bringing the oil up to temp quickly to help protect the motor. Only really relevant on a road car, where it can take a little while to warm up. Not an issue on a track car etc. I wouldn't expect one of these coolers to really cool the oil, mainly stabilize the oil temps at moderate power/load.

Its funny you are specifically talking about HPR 10 oil. There is a guy that goes under the username RB30DEVL on calaisturbo.com.au forums that was questioning this oil only about a fortnight ago. He was suspecting it was breaking down real early in its service life. And this was only on a high compression RB30DE Naturally Aspirated engine. Strange co-incidence....

Its funny you mention it, Julian Edgar brought a similar concept up a little while back on AS. Not sure what ever happened though...

If its a brand name unit such as the Autronic model, they are expensive, i say make people leave a deposit of $500 bare minimum, just incase something happens. Because you know what people are like, hopeless..... If you have a quality unit for hire now, i will hire it immediately. $100 is a fair price for a week, + return freight/post to you. You can get some preety good wide band units off the net now for around $500-$600 with controller, which is a great price if you want to tune your own cars. Let us know either way. Cheers

Around 30% drivetrain loss is to be expected. Auto will be more, manual will be less...

I was under the impression that the 4 door has softer suspension for the occupants, more of a people mover and looking at the footage on the video, it must be, never seen a 2 door go over on two wheels and stuff. Ill find out what dvd it was, i borrowed them off a mate. Its worth a look for sure, if you really want to see the xr6t vs 4 door skyline part. Someone here must have seen it and can also comment?

There was a comparison done on one of the latest Serious Performance? vids from memory, of a 4 dour gtst vs xr6t. With Ian Luff involved in the xr6t and some other driver in the skyline. First off they took a tiptronic R34 auto, it got whopped big time, not to mention the handling was like a boat of a 4 door. Then they took out a modified 4 door with suspension upgrade and it kept up with the xr6t and handled better. (but the xr6t was still stock as a rock) Im sure some of you have seen the segment?

It will be easier to tune the PowerFC for a smooth respectible drive with good economy over a map based link with crappy interpolation and load points. Finding people that can give a link a tune to its potential is real hard in oz and you are limited to who you can try. A powerfc is the first logical choice for an RB motor, or autronic/motec if the budget is larger.

For those that are interested in the Zoom article. I have scanned it, here are the links. Atleast if you are going to select an octane booster you can use this as a guide. Make your own decision about them, i already have mine. http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane1.jpg http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane2.jpg http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane3.jpg http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane4.jpg http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane5.jpg http://members.iinet.net.au/~calaisturbo/o...ane/octane6.jpg

I wouldn't trust it to clean the injectors either. Modern PULP such as optimax, ultimate, vortex have loads of cleaners already to keep the fuel system clean. Extra injector cleaners aren't needed.

They sound like bad mechanics to me. Just substituting parts that they guessed were the fault. (Like a backyarder mech) A real mech, could throw it up on the scope and check the sensor without just guessing. Same with the rest of it. Have they thouroughly checked the wiring loom? Unusual for an ecu to shit itself. Sounds like they are really guessing and have no idea to me.

Most of these octane boosters are just crap/scams. Zoom magazine tested about 40 different types a few months back. Out of all of them, there was only one that allowed them to add a few deg more timing. You might as well throw your money in the bin, that's all your doing with octane boosters. If you could increase the octane of your tank of fuel by adding a $10 product, don't you think the fuel makers would do it and sell higher ron fuel. Not to mention many people have found it fouls your plugs as well. Be weary, of something that cost a few dollars and claims it can do big things.

Maybe i missed something, but the website doesn't give an address of where the workshop is?