RB30-POWER

Hey Guys, Just pulled the turbo apart to have a quick look over before I bolt it onto an engine im building, and i found some oil in there, well quite abit actually. I've not really ever heard of the seal really failing at such a young age on these turbo's so im not 100% sure its that. If it was an older turbo i would understand, and surely if the turbo was boosted to a high level, which could cause the seals to wear quicker, surely it would be missing the rear wheel. So im not sure its been boosted/flogged either. What I can say, is i got the motor 40k on clock (genuine), *the cross over had no oil in it, *the plenum didnt really have any in it either I didn't get the cooler, so its hard to say if the oil was getting trapped in that and not getting to the throttle body etc. If it were excessive blowby, because the breathers go directly into the turbo compressor inlet, wouldnt you see oil on the entry to the turbo, or would it get sucked stright into the blades and not mark the walls? The motor has been sitting for sometime before i got my hands on it, maybe 12 months or more, so maybe it ran from somewhere else? Have a look and tell us what you think. Cheers

This guy used a 150teeth belt and could use the lower tensioners The problem with that belt is the width and the type of teeth is not 100% correct, but if those Audi's have the correct width and teeth, maybe the shorter belt is better, if its available?

If you look at the gates timing belt catalogue online. http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cf...ocation_id=3002 For those motors/cars 1.8L, it list 3 different belts, all with slightly different amount of teeth. Cam. Belt; W/152 Tooth Belt Automotive Timing Belt T291 Interference engine application Cam. Belt; W/153 Tooth Belt Automotive Timing Belt T317 Interference engine application Cam. Belt; W/150 Tooth Belt Automotive Timing Belt T306 Interference engine application I wonder if the shorter ones would allow you to use both lower tensioners, surely two teeth shorter wouldn't make alot of difference to the length? The dayco belt is 152 teeth. Any idea as to why the same motor would have different lengths belts available?

The thermostat in the Nissan RB engines is in the lower hose, that goes to the block.

I've dragged this from an article on the VL commodore. If the RB30 was suppose to have a 400k life, you would think the other RB engines would be the same. I have no doubt, any RB engine bottom end will do over 400k if left at stock power levels. I have pulled down RB30's with over 300k and they still have hone marks. They are great engines, well over-engineered.

Yeah, they should commence opening at 76.5degC and be fully open by around 90degC

Are they the standard pistons in that motor above? I will be running the NA pistons on my setup, they have the valve cut outs, so hopefully it will be non-interference.

You won't feel any difference with those mods unless your factory filter was very old and dirty causing a possible restriction.

I've seen to many aftermarket filters pass to much dust particles for my likeing, as evidence from the dust stuck to the oil in the intake piping on turbo cars. Makes it easy to show people. I always run stock elements in my cars, they don't require anything more, and never seen any dust in the inlet tracks. Being cheap i can change them very frequently if i want. I've seen various testing done that shows the filters are generally not the major restrictions in stock inlet paths anyway. What i've said may have no relevance to high performance cars though only mildly modified examples. These pipercross seem like they have a better design principle around them regarding filtration, they are probally preety good.

Sorry, i thought we were talking about water side of things. If its a road car, with a big oil cooler, then yes get a thermostat for that (for the oil cooler), as it will have the same side effects as the water thermostat will on motor operation. Cheers

For anyone that thinks K&N and other aftermarket filters are good, this is worth a read. http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

Yeah genuine Nissan 76.5degC thermostat is what you want. About $35 from Nissan Spares. Alot of aftermarket ones i've seen are a bad design, and can get stuck open due to their design. You want your car up to temp as soon as possible, to avoid engine wear and excessive fuel consumption.

I've found that lighter weight oils, usually read higher than a thicker grade oil, in almost all conditions. Don't know if that somehow fits into this discussion.

Good on ya mate. Fight it all the way. With that evidence i would be saying it was safer towards the middle of the road, hence probally why the copper was driving their too. Try to state you were driving to the conditions, not just, im here to try and get back at the copper attitude. That way if the copper is questioned, he might say the same, the road isn't the best, blah blah blah. The copper won't admit he ****ed up, thats for sure, so don't try to prove that side of it.

GTR plenums don't work on the RB20DET. The factory plenum gives not only more low down torque, but better top end as well. Nissan got that part correct. There was an articles in Zoom magazine a number of months back, where they couldnt figure out why the RB20 went like a dog, as it turns out they removed the modified RB26 plenum put on the the factory RB20 plenum and power and torque went up everywhere in the rpm band. I could scan the article if you want. But yeah, get a whole RB26DETT if you want to go down that route.

bump

See the offset runners on the RB20. Preety dodge for Nissan to do that on a production car i reckon.

Just premix it before it goes in, in a bucket or something. If you flush the block, you either have to undo the drain plug, which is under the coolant feed line to the turbo on the block, or remove the thermostat, or else the old coolant won't run out of the block properly.

There shouldnt be any noise from a timing belt. Is the belt sitting in the middle of the cam gears and crank gear? It shouldn't be running on anything. The only thing that could possibly make a noise is the belt tensioner if the bearings are shot

Frig, that is a big number. Obviously not a RB20. Any specs you want to share, RB26DET or RB30DET?

Has anyone seen the mines RB26, it has like a dark blue crinkle paint on it. Looks simple but very effective.

Thankyou for the confirmation guys, appreciate it

The RB20 plenum has offset runners for 5 & 6 to clear the master cylinder in R32's. So i don't see how a RB25 plenum would fit, as it doesnt have any offset runners.

Very rare for a genuine thermostat to fail. I reckon something else is the problem, especially if has boiled before. My guess is the head or gasket. Also 50% antifreeze seems way to much to me, is that what the recommended ratio is? I would have though 33% in our climate, doesn't freeze here, and adding to much can have a negative effect on cooling efficiency.

Sounds like a faulty AFM to me, as has been said above. Diags will confirm it.