RB30-POWER

what gets me, is when people say, my skyline has only 60k or 80k or whatever. like they have a near new car. without the jap and aus service history i would rarely beleive them. why is it so many jap cars are missing the servicing handbook? what they should say is, it claims to have 60 or 80k. (and look further for evidence of such low km's, warn pedals, steering wheel, suspension bushes, plugs, timing belts etc etc) as if all these 10year old jap cars all have 60 or 80k, lol

$1200 for tuning. Crikey, would want to be a good tune. I would always prefer to pay someone by the hour where possible.

Sydney kid At what rate does engine wear increase with RPM? Wouldn't an RB30DET have a longer life between rebuilds than a high reving RB26DETT? Or would it be neglible on a highly boosted motor anyway?

180 on 10psi, sounds a tad high i reckon for a stock turbo. probally more like 165 odd kw. For 23K it would want to be mint as, especially for a 94 model, Series 1? Check for the usual, rust under the rear guards and under the undercarrage/chasis rails. Seen quite a few rusted there. (Must be from the snow in Japan) Check air-con system works properly. For 23k it ought too. (Digital display and control seems to be a common problem with them) Also just because he is 40, doesn't mean it hasn't been raced. Most people want a line for a reason. For 23k i would want a full service history from Japan and Aus as well. And remember if its done 90k, you will be up for a timing belt soon, which will cost a few $ too. If you are paying top dollar, make sure you get close to 12months rego as well. Its a buyers market currently so you should be able to do alright out of it. Does it have a FMIC or standard cooler?

And remember unless the pod filter is shielded effectively (from underbonnet heat) you will lose power.

Spend the money on something that will offer better value and performance for your vehicle. People hate attention getters with wanker valves

Bet you can't wait to start that bad boy

Water flows in the lower hose from the radiator to the block and out of the top hose back into the radiator. Ever felt the radiator hoses while the car is running, bottom one is cool and the top is hot.

Crikey, if that is the wing, i can see what you mean. two big holes would look better...

Need to remember the R33 was the lard ass of the family too

Good to hear. You can never be to careful these days, so many shonkey people out there. When you find someone you trust, you should stick to them. A good mechanic will always show the customer proof of a fault and return any original parts to you, that were faulty/replaced when the job has been done.

Just go buy a commodore for your daily hack and keep the GTR for the weekend cruiser.

Plus make sure the factory cat convertor isn't blocked which can cause excess back pressure and loss of torque. An exhaust will also help bring boost on sooner which will make the bottom end more responsive. (If you have a crappy press bent factory one)

Make sure the timing is correct. Change any fuel filters that are old. Check the plugs and the gaps are correct as well. Get a compression test done by a mechanic and a dyno. Just to check where things are at. If its as bad as you say there may be an underlying fault somewhere.

LOL, didn't dyno it to check mixtures, didn't inspect the injectors, didn't inspect the fuel lines, didn't inspect the pollution vapour lines. Just smelt some fuel and said you need a gold plated fuel pump (must be for $600) and said its running lean. What a dipshit. Change mechanics

Not my taste sorry. Wheels look like cheap and nasty bling specials. Paint is way over the top for my liking. Wouldnt want to drive it everyday thats for sure. Bonnet is overkill. Great for autosalon maybe.... But i like the mechanical mods very much. Sorry, but you did ask.

Looks good. Get a nice set of wheels and a moderate lowering job and it will really look the part

If you used the RB25DET bottom end you wouldnt need a thicker gasket as the pistons are what provides the DET with the lower compression ratio. You would need a turbo ecu, injectors and the rest from the DET as well, unless you are going aftermarket ofcourse. Just ask yourself if its all worthwhile. Does your car have turbo spec brakes, turbo gearbox, diff that can take the power etc etc.? Make sure you have all the support systems in place for the turbo conversion first.

Sounds like another half assed conversion to me. Just bolted a turbo to an NA? Did he upgrade the support systems around it. i.e brakes etc? If you cant have a turbo on the car legally, why have one at all? Sounds like he got defected for all the right reasons. If its all legal why remove it. Maybe he should think about the real issues with the car, rather than what brand he wants on his milo tin sticking out the back.

Not to sure how rich the mixtures are on the NA RB25's. If they are quite rich like most Nissans chances are you should be able to lean them out a bit and pick up some good mid to top end power. I would imagine the factory timing would already be quite agressive if they were mapped to Jap spec fuel, so probally won't be able to add much more in that area than the factory ecu already has. You should be able to pick up a little bit here and there though...

Thanks for your response, but that price is far more than im willing to pay for it (no offense) if its going to cost me that much, ill just get the ic piping extended across the cam covers. Thought most people would replace the crossover anyway with aftermarket kits and therefore the original cast pipe may not be worth much to them. Thanks anyway. Anyone else selling one that isn't gold plated?

If you bolted the RB26 head to the RB25, it should be able to rev a little harder having a slightly shorter stroke that the RB26 wouldn't it? I know it would be neglible, and you may not make the same power anyway due to the smaller displacement, but still...

Finding parts would be enough to scare me away from the GTiR. As common as they are I would go R33 over GTiR, but thats only my opinion. I wouldn't be paying $25k for one either unless it was absolutely mint! Once again only my opinion... I would personally prefer to get a R32 GTS-T and bolt up an RB26DETT, but i've always been one to modify cars rather then leave them stock. Could easily do that with the budget you are talking about. But thats not what this thread is about.

Thanks for the info phantom. Ill confirm with a head guru, see if they think the gallery is ok as is. I have to get it re-surfaced anyway before i bolt it up. As for the RB30 bypass valve, i grub screw that bugger as well. Cheers

Well a locally delivered WRX is detuned for aussie fuel, only has 195kw as compared to the Jap version that has 206kw. (Same as factory GTR) So the GTR still has a minor power advantage. I would say a stock GTR (in good health) would easily give an STI a run for its money. Bit more boost pressure and an exhuast on the GTR and you should easily leave it behind. Not being biased at all A few other members here must have run into a few sti's in their time, should be able to tell us some stories