RB30-POWER

Ahh i see then. From what i understood, if you add extra syncros you had to reduce the gearwidth, if you were using the same size housing so to speak. I was told that dog boxes get extra strength due to making the gears wider/bigger using up the space where the syncros would normally go. Buy maybe that wasn't entirely correct.

The box in that photo is an RB25DET box above. This is an MX7, notice how the MX7 (VL Turbo Box) has less webbing on the bellhousing. Also i never seen actual proof that the RB25 box is stronger. Usually, if you fit extra syncros you have to use a narrower gear because the extra syncros take up space. So to say the RB25 box is stronger may not neccesarily be true. I've never seen the actual gears measured and compared between the two boxes.

Great to hear. Im sure you will get more consistant performance from your car from this mod, rather than a unsheilded pod breathing in hot air.

The seals are the same as the RB30/VL/R31 cam seals. (The oil pump also uses the same seal as the camshafts) About $6.50 each. If you want genuine you will pay around $15 each. And as mentioned, do the water pump as well. Im fairly sure the RB20 has the same pump bolt spacing as the local VL/R31. (The RB25 is different though) Therfore you can get an aftermarket pump for around $88 (PowerMax brand - Made in Japan) Genuine pump will be around $120. Its a good idea to do the seals as they go hard overtime and score the crank and camshafts, this is what causes leaks on high km motors. To do the oil pump seal, you would have to remove the crank timing gear, which is a real bitch, often you have to split them and get a new one in order not to damage the oil pump ($49 for a new timing gear). You should be able to do the oil pump seal without removing the pump itself. If you remove the oil pump, you have to drop the sump. Hope that helps some.

A new timing gear is $49 from Nissan Spares.

From what i understand the NA had the same/similar box to the RB20DET. There is a massive size difference if you put them side by side. Like this

You wouldn't want to go over 10 without a better FMIC thats for sure. The factory ones are very small and get heat soaked rather easily and extra boost doesn't always result in more power.

A glcol based coolant would also help. Most are these days anyway.

As cubes said 10-12 pound max if you want reliability as your upmost importance.

As has been mentioned before. Internally they are basically the same strengthwise as the GTR boxes, just without the 4wd transfer case. They are a big box, do you have room in your transmission tunnel for it?

What you just said makes sense, as technically you are compressing the spring, much like turning the knob on an aftermarket valve. Bit dodge though

Don't mean to dig up an old thread. But i am going to use a factory bov on a motor i am building at the moment and i wanted to try and find what this hole does, that a few people have blocked. I ripped one apart to see whats what in there. From looking at it and testing it. The hole on the back of the BOV where its sits on the crossover travels through into the diaphram part of the BOV. From what i can see, this will either help to open the BOV with less boost/pressure or to make it open more smoothly. Smoother operation. I don't see anyway that this would leak back into the piping that returns to the air flow meter ducting. The hole isn't linked to that section of the BOV. It only seems to help the valve open easier, you not only have the pressurised pushing on the BOV piston itself in the cross over, but it would be pushing directly on the diaphram part of the valve. And obviously you will have intake manifold pressure or vacuum on the other side from the plenum to either equalize or help open the valve. Looking at this, i will be blocking it up, but only because i want to see if it can hold more boost sucessfully. Have a look and see what you think.

A complete RB25DET bottom end would be more sucessfull in the long run, rather than thicker gaskets, de-compression plates etc. I sold a complete RB25DET bottom end (short motor) with 40k on it for $150 the other day to a forum member here. Im sure there must be a few more floating around, people want to get rid of.

Cheapest way to do these conversions is to buy a complete RB25DE w/loom+ecu. Should pay about $1200 complete. Generally if you buy parts seperately it adds up real fast. I got a complete running RB25DET and stripped it for my conversion. Its the easiest way... Im sure you will find an ecu though if you are patient.

Nice car with a nice price. Should sell quick.

Can't wait for the vid. Gunna drift in first gear only, or grab second this time?

Just make sure, the previous dyno runs and the current runs are being done in the same dyno modes (i.e shootout etc) and also see if they are both being dyno'd in the same gear. These little things may have some bearing on the results. Tuned with the same quality fuel as before?

I would expect to see 180kw at the treads with those sorts of mods atleast. Who ever tuned it, may not have made the timing maps real agressive. How does the VCT switch over with the unichip, still the same rpm point as controlled by the factory ecu? Also when i say 180rwkw i mean that figure should be acheivable with stock management, with the piggyback ecu, you would expect to see maybe 200rwkw if you trimmed the fuel mixtures.

Yeah, peanuts really, in the scheme of things...

Another thing i can say, that T866 is the bosch part no for the belt above to suit the 1.8L quatro 96+ I suppose if you want a price on the belt go ask for BT866 if bosch is any cheaper than dayco or easier to get in your local stores....

I wonder how many copper abuse these systems, looking for information for personal matters etc etc Scumbags....

Sounds like the timing is out? Either the CAS or belt itself may be out a couple of teeth. Could be any one of a hundred problems in reality though. I wouldn't get to concerned just yet about the woeful power output. Im sure the guys at blackwoods will find something.

What the hell are you doing around here Andy Yeah, well its not going into my car to be exact, im building the motor to go into my brothers skyline. (see if they are any good before i put one in the cal, lol) I just want to use the turbo to get it up and running for a while until i do the ecu, injectors and bigger turbo. But what I don't want to do is put it on, and get everything filled with oil and make a mess. Cylinders, cooler piping, cat, plenum etc etc. Its weird all the vl turbo's i've pulled down have always been clean as, considering the thousands of km's they would have done. Get a late model high tech bb nissan turbo and its full of oil, go figure... I think ill throw it on and take the risk, its probally just the breathers that caused the buildup, but im hoping some other Nissan guru's have pulled theirs down and maybe found /or not found the same thing, to confirm its health.

What belt did you use MonstaS4? The dayco belt 94407?, these are the cars that dayco belt are off?