RB30-POWER

Take a new set of plugs for when it gets tuned. You don't want to try and tune it if the plugs do happen to be dirty.

If you have the maps trimmed down so they are close, what you will find is under light load driving (i.e off boost) it will be running in closed loop operation and maintaining a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 and your plugs won't foul. (Closed loop is where the ecu uses the feedback from the 02 sensor to trim the injector pulse to keep a stoich ratio, minimising emissions and maximising economy) So if you drive under that condition, it should be fine. If it were a brand new motor just rebuilt, i would advise against running it rich as the rings won't bed properly and this needs to happen in the first few hundred km's of driving. If the motor has just had bolt ons applied, i wouldn't worry to much. Just drive it offboost so it can run in closed loop and your plugs wont foul. If you boost it and the plugs foul, you may not get the car there without removing and cleaning them. Not a job you really want to do on the side of the road.

Ok i understand now. You have upgraded the injectors. Therfore the standard ecu won't run it (it will overfuel by a mile) However, in the powerFC, there is an option which will trim the entire base map to suit larger injectors, without changing every parameter. (Have to do a search, im not familiar with the powerfc, to find what setting you have to change) If you don't change this, it will overfuel with the bigger injectors, the same as what will happen with the stock ecu. Do you have the Turbo Timer wired up to the O2 sensor at all? If it is wired up it will give the feedback from the standard "Narrow Band" O2 sensor. However i wouldn't use this sensor to tune, its highly innacurate at anything but stoich ratio's.

PowerFC has a basemap already did i miss something?

The AFM will be maxed out well and truly at 240rwkw. (You can tune the maps to add more/less fuel as the rpm changes even though its maxed, but its a bit dodge) Get the Z32 item they are only cheap and will give you more resolution and better results. SK says the RB20/25 is good for 220rwkw Z32 is good for about 260rwkw Q45 is good for about 300rwkw I reckon they run out of scope even a bit before these quoted figures, but you get the idea.

Make sure the trimpot on the ecu is fully anticlockwise. Make sure car is warm. Disconnect AAC valve connector (towards rear of plenum) Start Car. Turn phillips head screw until you get around 700rpm + or - 50rpm Turn off car. Reconnect AAC valve. Idle should be approx 750rpm + or - 50rpm. Thats the basics, im sure you will work it out.

O2 sensors are used for "closed loop" feedback fuel control. Basically most modern EFI systems use this sensor to give the ecu feedback about the fuel mixtures under light load operating or cruising conditions. This helps fuel economy and allows the cat to minimise emissions considerbly. Now some aftermarket ECU, dont use closed loop, so therefore you wouldn't need o2 sensors hooked up. Microtech are a good example. They don't used closed loop. (Well the old models don't anyway) Most other aftermarket ecus do run closed loop, such as powerfc etc etc. (Most good units you can choose to enable or disable closed loop) What managment does your car run?

Are these pumps genuine Bosch? Come in Bosch packaging? Just confirming because apparently there are Bosch copies going around at the moment e.g http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=4544335628 Just want to confirm what im buying if i go ahead with a purchase from you.

Whats likely to break on one of these days, just tyres? Ohh, and the ceramic turbine wheel, be lucky if thats still on at the end of the day right?

The balancer i used on my twin camer was off the R31 Skyline RB30, it's different to the VL RB30 balancer and different to the 25 one as well as well. But obviously it suits the R31 accessories/pumps so thats what i used. The R31 unit looks better then the VL unit, but they are probally all as crap as one another, lol.

Very Very Interesting... I've never ever looked at them front on when they are spinning at speed, for obvious reasons (how hard is it to see behind the radiator), however i may go spin one up in a lathe to see how bad they actually are. Are the two parts vulcanised together by the rubber or is the rubber some sort of dampening material or both? I suppose they are a mass produced part afterall. And under standard power it wouldn't be too much of a concern, However a critical piece in the puzzle when searching for more reliable HP at higher RPM especially.

hehe, trippy

They emit Hydrogen gas while charging, very easy to make a big bang if you want too. If you mean't did you kill the battery by shorting it with a metal object, Its highly unlikely to be related in my books. Most SLA batteries can emit massive amperage even melting the terminals off before the actual cells in the battery will collapse. Of course if its a cheap and nasty brand battery, it may not have taken much to upset it. More than likely you may have got a short when you were messing with the wiring and its probally just discharged on its own, from a short? Make sure there isn't anything discharging the battery when you put a new one in, as you don't want the same problem.

Like the way they sped the tape up to make it look as though they were going heaps fast? Also what about the cars doing nuts and having their number plates all over ACA. Another story with no real substance...

Works preety good today, must have been indexed o/night.

That google search must not index much, or will it compile its own index overtime and cache it? I done a couple of searches, google returned nothing, the onsite search returned heaps of applicable threads. It seems useless, sorry to sound so negative.

Im waiting for some replies from importers at the moment, but if you have something in mind, let me know what you can do for me. If your able to do a deal on the high flow, let me know too, chances are i would be highflowing the unit to the biggest steel wheels possible anyway. Regards Mick

If you go look back through Brett's (700hp) posts on ct.com.au there is heaps of info, he use to have a website, but it must have been taken down. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=12784 This guy has learnt alot from not only blowing a few motors, but from getting assistance from a few workshops that have tuned/built some big power RB30's. Some more interesting reading here to about the bearings that he used. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...64&page=1&pp=30 Its great to read about high power motors, because i could never afford to do it myself. Well not risk a motor by pushing its limits that cost a fortune anyway...

For anyone thinking/dreaming od making some high powered RB30 this thread is worth a read its quite a few pages, but some real useful info. Specifically note "700hp" comments. One primary thing to note in particular is how critical a Gibson Motorsport Harmonic Balancer is if your going to rev the RB30 over 6600rpm or thereabouts. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...46&page=1&pp=30

As the topic says, im chasing a VG30 turbocharger off the single turbo motor. Either mint cond running turbo, or stuffed turbo for complete rebuild. I beleive the VG30 has a larger exhuast housing than the 25 turbo which is better for my intended application. Let me know if you can help. Cheers Mick

If you have the factory boost solonoid, send me a PM as ill take it for the right price. Cheers

Does the setup come with oil and water lines as part of the kit? If you have pics so i can view the parts for sale. Please send to [email protected] Cheers Mick

If you want to see what the 35 is like on the track rather than a dyno, here is a vid of HSVSUX. Think it is the 1.06, but can't remember exactly. http://home.iprimus.com.au/dialup_v90_user...SUX_one_lap.mpg Note:If you want both speakers to work, open it on "mplayer2.exe" and then go into the properties and choose "2nd channel" makes both mono then and sounds better.

and another http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...&highlight=gt35

Im sure you have seen this thread, but its always worth another read. Some real experiences with the mentioned turbo's. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...&highlight=gt35