RB30-POWER

300rwhp is about 224rwkw. You should be able to get awefully close to this figure on stock injectors. At worst a rising rate regulator may be required to bump the pressure a little. 300rwhp is easily achievable on a GCG high flow. Hope that helps you.

As far as i know, The R32 RB25 springs are softer. All R33 RB25 are the same.

Provided your motor doesn't detonate you won't have any trouble with head gaskets failing. Get it tuned with the correct air fuel ratio's and ignition timing and 250rwkw is easily achievable on stock RB25 engine internals.

No dramas then. Smooth it out and let us know how you go.

If you are running an AFM equipped engine management system. What you may find is that, once the cam timing changes, it will allow a surge of increased air volume into the engine and overshoot the AFM voltage a little and cause richening of the mixtures at that point. Lean out those load points to keep it consistant across the switch point and if you still have a dip, look elsewhere for problems.

The engine i put into my brothers R31 doesn't have the oil light coming on at all under heavy braking. However it obviouslly uses the R31 sender and dash guage. I always fill the RB30 to the H mark as the H mark is still along way from the sump baffle and crank seals. So over filling on the dipstick a little is not much of an issue on the Rb30 engines. I suppose if your front end dives a bit and you are under heavy braking and don't have much oil in the sump it could move forward and uncover the oil feed pipe allowing air to be sucked in and oil light on. I also stuck with the factory RB30 oil restrictors. (Top end seems to be getting enough oil, no noisy hydraulic lifters or anything, which would be a sign of low oil pressure or volume)

Also double check that the air/fuel ratio's and boost pressure are consistant across the swithcover point, as these two things changing will make the power curve go funny. Im sure they would have been checked anyway.

I added some of this to a gearbox that had worn the hard casing of the input shaft to try and cut the noise down a little. I think it made a small improvment to the noise. Otherwise i wouldn't say the shifting changed at all. If you run a mix of gearbox oil and auto tranny fluid you can get a nice shifting box under most circumstances. Alot of people i know run various ratio's such as 60/40 70/30 etc of the two oils with great sucess. I would probally run a similar setup, but i need to keep the noise minimised. So i need to keep it thick as possible.

If someone can prove to me that this works ill give them a million dollars. Honestly, the injectors are attached to the inlet manifold and manifold is attached to the head, and they get very hot as it is. Not to mention the fuel gets heated as it travels through the rail. There are so many other in-efficiences in the motor its not funny, why waste your time trying to improve injector atomisation. Im not going to call it a scam, but to get your $289 back in fuel savings you may have to do 500 years of driving.

Has your tuner tried adding extra timing at the switchover point, to smooth it out?

Inline 6 is a near perfect configuration for smoothness. To see why, visit this link, has a little of the whole I6 vs V6 differences. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/e...h3.htm#Inline-6

Nice work there, very impressive power

I would say its obviously been modified. What mods were you running with it?

Just dont drive on full boost for the last couple of minutes of your trip and you won't really need to let it idle down. If you run an oil cooled only turbo such as a TO4 or something then letting it idle/cool down is more critical. The standard turbo's and most other modern turbos are watercooled, so excess cool down is simply not required.

I would say it would depend on the quality of the wrap itself. There is alot of cheap and nasty heat wrap on the market at the moment, that I would be lucky to put near NA extractors, let alone a turbo dump pipe. Buy some good quality wrap, which will cost a abit, and it may even have a heat rating on the packaging or manufacturer specs may provide the ratings.

In the assembly instructions about 5 pages worth, there is a page that list voltages from various IC chips. It also shows where the IC's should have continuity (be joined). Using that diagram is how i solved one of my problems which was an intermittent operation fault. I found one of the links didnt have continuity, i checked the links after i didnt measure the correct voltage that the diagram showed. I've just pulled out the instructions, the diagram you should be fault finding with is on Page 117. Hope that helps.

Maybe the map sensor is just for boost control which is done by the factory ecu. What happens to your boost levels with the map sensor disconnected totally? Does the R34 run a two stage type arrangement like the R33 or is it more sophisticated?

All that aside, measure what voltage the map sensor is at at say 7psi (map sensor usually work with a 0-5V output) Wind the boost up until it cuts (just so you know how much boost is required to hit the cut), it would only be a few psi over standard. Then clamp the map sensor output to what it was measuring at 7psi, take the car for another spin and see if it still cuts at the higher boost level. The Jaycar DFA would be perfect to modify a 0-5V map sensor output.

I can't say i have the map sensor hooked up on the ecu im running (Series 2 RB25DET ECU). All wiring diagrams indicate that the R33 map isn't connected to the ecu despite speculation on here lately. I wish i had an R33 to look at and i could test wether its connected to the ecu and what pin, clear the matter up once and for all. I wonder how different the R34 managment setup really is?

Nissan Skylines aren't OBD or OBD2 compatible. Nissan ECU's are compatible with Nissan's "Consult" standard only.

Your best bet is to re-calibrate your thermo fan controller to turn on later and keep your water temp between 75-85degC Anything less and really it just causes engine wear and tear. I would be looking to run 1.00 or no extra fuel anything above 70degC, anything below this and it will require extra fuel for smooth running.

After testing on my own car, there is more to it then just hitting 5.1V from what i can tell. I have installed a DFA unit and after adjusting the input/output voltage to keep all values up to 5.3V input from the AFM to under 4.90V output from the DFA to the ECU. (I tuned/calibrated the unit up to 5.3v from the AFM signal even though i think 5.12V is the max it can ever give out just to be safe.) Anyway, what i have found after upping the boost a bit, is that now the extra boost/airflow at lower RPM is triggering the cut or rich and retard. Even though its showing a max of 4.9V, because its occuring at a low RPM point, it puts the ECU on a map point that is mapped to be retarted timing and rich fuel injection time. Basically what i think Nissan has done is basically mapped the ECU with good mixtures and timing up to or just over the load point seen by the standard boost/air flow of the RB25 engine. Any load points over this have been mapped with retarted timing and an extended injection pulse to richen it up. I have found the stock ECU very hard to crack and work around. I now really have to invest in a complete managment system to up the boost, even though i wanted minimal gains. Because i have the ECU on an RB30DET i am able to get high AFM readings at low RPM.

Series 2 has a 3 pin connector whilst Series 1 has a 4 pin connector. Yes you can use either, but you will have to fit the required plug for the AFM you wish to use, and add the extra earth wire if you are using a Series 1 AFM on a Series 2 car. If you are using a Series 2 AFM on Series 1 car, just dont connect the extra earth wire, when you rewire it. Either way, you can't just plug a Series 2 AFM into a Series 1 or vise versa, wiring mods as described above are required.

although the splitfire coils may be an improvement over standard coils it will never have the power of a CDI system that can run big gaps under high cylinder pressures. let us know how you go though, doubt it will do 1.5mm gap myself.

For a good explanation go here. http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm