RB30-POWER

You would need bug nads to guide a turbocharged busa around the street!

I wouldn't do it, you will just look like a tool. But what ever does it for ya.

Your mechanic sounds like a dick! Take it to someone that knows RB engines. If your car is missing with 0.8mm gap, you will more then likely have a dud coil. (Hairline crack from heat, allowing spark energy to escape) For standard boost, you shouldn't even need 0.8mm gap. But it will prove if its the spark or not. If you are running more then standard boost, it could even be the infamous Nissan "Rich and Retard" happening. This is where the ecu uses parts of the maps that are very very conservative with timing and very heavy with fuel. This might be what your feeling as well. Good Luck!

All that should keep the riceboys happy

Ghostrider rides a GSXR, so if that isn't testimate to how good they go and handle, what the hell is, hehe...

haha, great to hear mate. funny the burnt tracks is one of the things i mentioned up there as well.

ohh ok, was under the impression you got it back from him, hence the pics. anyway, now that you have it apart is there any burnt/black carbon tracks on the board, sometimes you get lucky and even if the circuit isn't protected the tracks just get hot, lift from the pcb and burn into two pieces, that can be easily joined again with small guage wire?

sell it on ebay, will probally get more then a new one, lol

you have to use a good wash detergent that doesn't strip the wax straight off the car. i reckon there is a fair difference myself. however i don't tell everyone my personal car detailing secrets, hehe....

fairly sure there is a proper sealant they recommend on welsh plugs. cant think of what its called off the top of my head. i say just wack it off centre and twist it out, if you hit it square on, it can push into the water gallery on some of them and cause more trouble getting it out. only my thoughts though. everyone uses a slightly different method im sure.

bcpr5es-11 will be the go in naturally aspirated rb25. standard ngk copper plug, couple of bucks each!

crikey, i would be so p****ed with myself if i did that. unfortuanetly i am going to say i would be suprised if this powerfc ever goes again, not all the circuits are protected that well in them. being all surface mount as well will make it a prick to try and repair. have you opened it, can you see the burnt out components at all? man you must be spewing so hard? (unless your rich c**t i guess)

if the engine is cold as stated above, everything hasn't expanded and isn't offering maximum sealing, so those readings would be fine. also one of the main things you should look for is even readings across all 6 pots, if one or two pots are out by a significant margin, then its fair to say that something may be a miss inside the engine. if they are all fairly even across the board then its fair to say its an honest motor.

usually the fuel cuts and idle strategies are different between the two. auto will work ok on manual, but going the other way is not recommended, sometimes the manual ecu will lack the logic to control autos alltogether. so just use what its designed for, if you want troublefree and smooth operation of the driveline.

all the plain bearing turbo's i have used have all had fair movement in them. the rb20, rb25 and vg30 ball bearing turbo's i have used have what i would call next to no movement in them at all, and they have all run flawlessly. from saying the above if i got any of the above turbos and they had clear movement in them i would be weary of condition. the ball bearing turbo's spin so smoothly and easy, like silk, whilst the plain bearing turbo's are not as smooth, and not as easy to spin, when compared to their ball bearing counterparts. but all the above is only from my personal observations.

changing the plug heat range will highly unlikely fix your problem. what ignition system do you run, what gaps? unless your using a sustained output of 400hp for minutes on end, going to a 8 rating plug will more then likely just foul up quicker and cause more missing, because they aren't hot enough to burn the carbon deposits off. is this a dedicated race car or street car your talking about?

As long as its somewhere between the throttlebody and the turbo outlet, it will work anywhere along that path. Of course they do suggest it works best, closest to the throttlebody, however i don't think there would be a huge difference.

What did you try again? If it doesn't start on the stock ecu, thats a good sign that its a fuse or something and the powerfc might be fine.

If you want more spark you need a CDI system. Reasonbly expensive and only needed at high power outputs. Probally depends on the type of ecu you use as to which will give the best results. Best to talk to engine tuner about your options, if you need this type of ignition system.

How can you do a test with a select batch of fuel. How about the sample the fuel from 100 different servos around Aust and make a comparison. Look for consistancy in the performance of the fuels as well. Ill be sticking with the BP Ultimate myself.

Can't argue with that. Splitfire coils aren't going to give you any more spark performance then standard non damaged Nissan coils will on the standard ignition system. Its just that its common for standard coils to crack/fracture and the spark jumps out instead of the full energy going across the plug gap. You might be buying coils that are designed to be more robust and resistant to the engine heat, but to think your getting any significant improvement in spark energy is wrong.

Sounds like its rat shit then. A new compatible alternative is probally going to be $600+ and genuine even more. I say risk it and try and find a good s/hand unit.

Depends on the problem. If it was just a leaking seal or faulty clutch it would be worth repairing, however if the valves inside are jammed, stuffed, clogged you will probally find a new unit is the only way. A new AC compressor is fairly big $ too. Might even be worth finding a cheap s/hand one from a halfcut someone doesn't want. That way if its buggered as well, you haven't lost much, however if it works, you have saved probally hundreds of $

Are you still running standard ecu or the powerfc? You drive with aircon off?

Possibly, dirty air filters, filters sucking hot air from underbonnet (typically applies to pod users), retarted ignition timing, spark plug condition, viscosity of the engine oil, engine temperature, age of 02 sensor, restricted exhaust. All those types of thing can and will effect economy. So best check that its all up to scratch, before you really worry to much.