RB30-POWER

No gasket needed. Its got a brown connector/plug on it at the rear of plenum chamber. (Near the hose that runs to the brake booster) It may be faulty, or it may not be plugged on properly or it may have a broken wire between the ecu and valve. If you measure the connector with the ignition on, it should have +12V on one of the wires, and the other wire runs to pin 4 on the ecu, the ecu pulses the valve to ground to control how far it stays open. You could even, connect a 12V battery to the aac valve when you get it off the vehicle and see if it opens with power applied. (Its a solonoid so the plunger will pull in when you connect 12V to it) I would check the valve first before just replacing it.

I would take a mint calais over a TI R31 anyday of the week. The R31 does have a better chasis, build etc. But to be honest the local model R31's have never done anything for me. Import 2 doors are horn though. Still wouldn't ever sell my calais for R31 though, even though i like the import R31 models.

If you look carefully it should have a number 1 printed on the connector. (It will be small writing). Otherwise measure what wire has +12V with the ignition switched on. Maybe someone else knows what end? (I dont have a 3 pin AFM here at the moment sorry)

Actually you are correct the Auto version of the RB20DET does have a different static timing value. For Auto RB20DET it is 20deg btdc @ 650rpm For Manual RB20DET it is 15deg btdc @ 650rpm

Bugger it, just for you Series 2 AFM is as follows Pin 1 (Supply Voltage +12V) Pin 2 (Signal Ground) Pin 3 (Intake Air Signal 0-5V Output)

Thats for Series 1. Is it Series 1 or 2?

Pin 1 (No Connection) Pin 2 (Intake Air Signal 0-5V Output) Pin 3 (Power Ground) Pin 4 (Signal Ground) Pin 5 (Power Supply +12V) Hope that helps

its not the battery. its the aac valve. (this valve is to keep rpm constant with loads applied, such as alternator, power steering, aircon etc) waste your money if you want though...

well over 300rwkw easily supported on that setup, considering you have forgies and lowered compression ratio from standard. get some good cams and just add boost from a decent size turbo and watch the power skyrocket

i say just get a proper non friction modified run in oil. i seen brand name run in oils on the shelf at supercheap the other day.

What you should do is swap number 3 coil with say number 2 coil. If the misfire is now on number 2. Its the Coil. If the misfire is still on 3, you know its the ignitor pack.

coil or ignitor more then likely. one guy was saying the other day, if you want to narrow it down if you think its the ignitor, get a heat gun onto it and see if you can replicate the problem.. as for the coils, remove the cover, at night when its dark and see if you can see the spark jumping out of the coils. (also inspect for hairline cracks)

easy 40k from coppers. you will have another problem, not the plugs. did someone say coil packs.....?

50hp shot on a toy bike that makes what 3hp? ok then..... as soon as you fire it the motor will stop, thats my 2c, unless you have some way of getting the required fuel in as well.

thats not true at all. this has been done on a gtr at various levels of power. indexing the plugs made no difference. case closed! It was zoom or hiperformance mag, could scan it if anyone is interested, or you can just take my word for it.

haha, agreed! if you haven't heard of it, its probally for a reason. i use to use the meguiars gold class wax on my car, (its very good) however it doesn't seem to last very long. i have been using an armoral product lately and it seems to give protection for much longer. stuffed if i know, asking about polish is like asking about oils. my advise R34 would be get some and check what results you acheive. its obvious that most people here have not used it.

Hmm ok... Thought i've heard people talk of them, but maybe im mistaken. Maybe they are for GTR only.

yeah, but you probally needed them to get into the show

there would be two things worth checking out then

Sydney has some of the worst roads in the state. For a place of its calibre, its a joke. Surely they ain't short of a quid to fix them with the density of people in the area that pay tax, rates etc etc. Maybe they just can't justify closing the roads for repair, because of how busy it is?

Yeah, thats a bargain for R33 gear. Go for it.

Well the alternator will be putting more load on the engine whilst pumping out higher amperages to run all the lights etc. However, the AAC valve should bypass more air around the throttle to raise idle to 700rpm. I would say your AAC valve is disconnected or not working at all. Another test will be, turn all the lights off, but whilst on idle/parked, turn your steering wheels full lock and see if the idle drops as well. As its doing basically the same thing as the alternator, putting load on the engine that the AAC valve should be compensating for.

Power FC D Jetro If you want a Speed Density System but whilst keeping PowerFc.

Nice work! Atleast a ricer didn't get those awards.

Ok, i think what the guy at autobarn may have been trying to say is that if your car has a warning light on the dash for when a globe blows. It will be on all the time with LED globes because they do not draw enough current like a normal globe to make the warning light go off. (It thinks a globe is blown) Unsure if the R32/33/34 have a warning light for blown globes? R31 do have this feature.