RB30-POWER

Great idea Connect the PowerFC up and if the AC switches on, it will prove that the relay/switch inside the standard ecu is fried. Too easy....

I fully understand, the importance of charge times, recovery times, dwell etc However, The proof is in the pudding. So many people are doing this conversion now with great sucess. So meh.... The trouble people have with the standard coils as it is, its preety hard to downgrade I will certainly be giving it a go when my coils shit themself. (However i leave the coil cover off to let the heat escape, so hopefully the standard coils last a while) There is probally no reason why the RB30 ignitor won't work with this conversion either. (You will need 6 of course) But i have seen an RB30 ignitor used when one of the transistors failed on the RB20 6 ignitor pack. (The RB30 ignitor was used to bypass the faulty transistor in the ignitor pack, as a temp fix) It worked 100% as well. Know one has done it yet, but might be another way of going if you can get 6 RB30 ignitors cheaper then RB20 item.

You need to first check that the computer is receiving the aircon request signal from the switch/climate control. If the ecu input is seeing the request signal, but not operating you then need to check that the other side of the circuit is fine. To do this just switch the output side at the ecu and confirm that it all starts working. (This will rule out things like high/low pressure swicthes) If that makes it work, then the ecu is the culprit. Rather then replace the ecu, I would just wire up an extra relay to bypass the computer. I would still provide the ecu with the switched aircon request signal though, so that it changes the idle strategy for AC mode. This is basically the same as what was said above, but i wanted to point out that you really only need to test the two sides of the ecu to quickly narrow where the problem lies, you can then narrow it from there. Im sure your auto elec knows what he is on about.

Doubt you will get an answer that will pinpoint the problem on here. First thing to do is check that the cambelt is installed correctly with everything on top dead centre. Then if it won't start, and you think the head may be the problem, check the compression, to make sure its sealed properly. If compression is good, check for spark and fuel and then continue until the fault is found.

It will come on if sensor is damaged/faulty/disconnected or has been disconnected in the past. Usually to clear them you will need a scan tool, such as nissan consult or equivalent.

Yeah sounds like the Clutch Master Cylinder is leaking. If your lucky it will just need a new seal and maybe piston. Otherwise it will have to be replaced. Easy enough job, im unsure what the pricing and availability of these units is though.

Have a look for a vacuum leak. More then likely the culprit. Especially if something like the cooler piping was moved/pressed/damaged in the crash. Cooler could be split as well, unsure of what sort of crash your talking.

amen brother! the factory got that part right, why go and mess with it, putting something else on and then putting a new thread up next week asking why your car runs like shit.

Talk about abortions

It now makes Mario's GTR look very dismal in comparison. Someone walking the walk, not just talking the talk! Congrats!

All i will say is don't pay in advance. Wait until its ready, go over it as good as you can. And if your happy, then pay your money. As soon as you pay and there is a problem (almost always is) you will be way lower on the list.

sounds stupid, but what viscosity oil do you have in the motor? its suprising how much drag, the wrong oil can put onto a motor. always more evident when cold of course.

5w-30 sounds way to light in viscosity for aust climate. i say 10W-40 is a good compromise. look in any factory handbook and it will recommend a heavier grade oil in summer and a lighter weight oil in winter. a find it hard to beleive a 30 weight oil will protect much at all with our hot weather. i beleive it will shear and break down at high temps. if you have an effective frount mount oil cooler and you can keep temps stable then it may not be as much of a concern. i find it hard to beleive that a true racing car will use something as broad as a 10w-60 rating. its common fact that an oil is more stable when its high and low viscosity ratings are within a close range or preferably a monograde. i.e a quick look on the net reveals strictly as an example, penzoil racing oil that comes in 3 flavours SAE50 SAE60 and a 25W-50 for cars where cold starts happen more frequently. not that any of that matters for a street car. just adding to the conversation, more then anything

Once you do this mod, you usually wire them so its runs waste spark mode. (i.e. one coil fires two cylinders - one on power and one on exhaust stroke) You don't need two sets of coils or two ignitors. Here is a link with the guy in NZ that preety much started the modification and promoted how easy and sucessful it works if you use the correct coil pack set. (which he happens to sell) http://gdz1la.kol.co.nz/prod01.htm the coil is from a circa 1988 turbo buick v6 motor (in various models released in USA). i have also now found out that if you want to use an easier to find coil pack set. get them off an AU Series 1 6cyl Falcon. Seen these working a treat. but remember the rb20 ignitor is still required

Give you a tip as well. Only works with RB20DET ignitors. (Weird i know, but must be different) If you can't get it working with R33 ignitors, don't say i didn't tell you so! Not to bad if you have a series 2 RB25DET as you will need to buy an external ignitor pack anyway. (As series 2 is built into coils)

What grade oil did you use. VMX80?

Always had great success with the BCPR6ES-11 in all RB20/25/30 engines. Never needed a gap smaller then 1.0mm on all cars up to 230rwkw. If you need small gaps, you must have buggered coils IMHO

I wouldn't go any lower then around 3.7:1. (higher numerically) With the torque of the RB25/30, you don't need heaps short gearing. Its just going to make you slower and rev the fark out of the engine on the freeway in cruise conditions. 3.45:1 is probally getting a little tall for maximum performance, 3.7:1 will give you the edge over 3.45 on a mild engine. Can't say exactly what cars have ratio's that tall from jap land, however i can give my opinion on the ratio's as i have ran these engines in VL and R31 with the above ratio's and know how they compare/perform.

Unless your driving around on full boost. (Which will be quite difficult to do on the street legally) You shouldn't really have any fuel cosumption increase. I mean i don't know about RB26, but on my RB30 i can drive around all day everyday off boost if i want.

It might be running rich. But even a 75HP shot of NOS is going to need considerbly more fuel. Unless you have all support systems in place, don't fool with NOS. Its very good stuff, but unless tuned absolutely correctly, your going to lean out and damage the engine.

do you guys know, that autospeed done a test of pressure drops on a vl turbo intake system some time ago. (can get the url if you want) they found a standard paper element filter to have almost 0 pressure drop (well not 0 but bugger all compared to the other restrictions in the intake system) the biggest restriction was the afm mesh, this was a huge restriction, compared to anything else. the reason this is of interest is because im sure the r33 and r33 run the same air filter? so expensive k&n may be ok, because you can wash them and re-use, but if you think the performance will be better, you are mistaken once again. i always used genuine Nissan paper element filters, change every service and have no dramas. for me to buy a k&n, i would need a gun to my head. if you are serious about removing restrictions, flick the mesh. do it to all my hotwire meters, never had any decline in idle quality, or smoothness. if anything i notice improvement in response and fuel economy. (some of you are parro about the mesh i know, but anyway, if you think the filter will have any performance gain, your joking)

SKYBEE is fully correct. If you have to mount it certain ways, the spring that holds the contacts apart is stuffed. Just get a Bosch relay, not some chinese crap.

Well even if you can't notice it seat of your pant style, You would get better performance and fuel consumption if the motor was breathing in ambient outside air, maybe up to 30degC, instead of hot radiated air from the motor under the hood that is 50+degC. Not to mention it will help avoid detonation as well.

Yeah, but a pod, if its sucking hot underbonnet air, is going to reduce performance. Air box will win everytime, with the snorkel drawing cool air from outside the bonnet. Dyno will not tell shit, of what happens in the real world. If you want a pod, put it in a box, or setup a heatshield, and have the best of both worlds.

Probally just because the noise has gone. If V8's lost their noise, the owners would realise how slow they are too.