RB30-POWER

Check right around the complete circumference of each pulley that the belt runs on. From the sounds of it it might be rubbing on a possibly damaged pulley. Failing that, also check to make sure their isn't any stones bedded into the grooves on the belt, possible pushing the belt off the ridges on the pullies and rubbing.

Drive along at light load at 2500rpm or so, and it should crosscount back and forth quite rapidly. At idle, if the sensor is a bit old, it will be quite un-responsive and make it difficult to determine what happening. So yeah, check it as your drive along, that way there is alot more hot gas flowing past the sensor and the response should be quite rapid! On a standard ecu and mild car, it should be in closed loop right up to 0 vacuum on the boost guage.

At high load and rich mixtures the cat wont be able to make any impact on the readings. So provided you allow for the slight lag of the gas reaching the rear of the exhaust for measurement it will be fine when tuning. At light load lean mictures and around stoich mixtures, the readings at the rear of the exhaust or after cat will not be entirely correct. But then again these mixtures aren't real critical anyway. Sometimes tuners just prefer the quicker response of the lamda sensors placed in the turbo dump or pre-cat positions so its easier to tune. It will only cost a few bucks to get a 18x1.5 bung put into the downpipe, so just get it done if thats what the tuner prefers. I have a wideband that actual has a simulated narrow band output as well, so i basically remove the factory sensor, screw in the wideband, and just use the narrowband output to connect to the ecu and the wideband output to the laptop for accurate readout. Makes so very easy.

The link plugins can be quite comprehensively configured to suit different solonoids. So maybe pickup a standard skyline solonoid or equivalent and see how you go with it.

I would say the solonoid is wired incorrectly. (Considering its a conversion) The stock wastegate pressure on RB25 turbo's is 5 psi. You only get 7 psi when the solonoid gets power and opens by the ecu at 4500rpm and bleeds off a little air to increase boost. The ecu provides earth to the solonoid, so the other side should be +12V anytime the ignition is on. (This is the part that won't be wired my guess)

The reason is, because, The ecu can only add like + or - 5% of injector pulse width or "on duration" from the base pulse width which is programmed into the light load map points, when the unit is tuned. Like if the base map figure was 2msec duration, but to acheive a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 it actually really required 1.2msec, the ecu can't adjust add or subtract that much from the base value. The reason it can't is because, if for instance the O2 sensor was faulty and gave incorrect readings, the ecu could adjust the injector pulse width to whatever gave the output, it thinks is correct. But really it isn't because the O2 sensor is faulty. Even if you tune your base map settings to exactly 14.7:1 mixtures, when you get different fuel, different temperature days etc, it will never be exactly 14.7:1. But closed loop allows small adjustments to keep it at that output for economy and emmisions.

Closed loop is when the ecu is using the Oxygen Sensor Output to control fuel mixtures to a ratio of 14.7:1 or stoich. This increases economy and allows the cat to give the cleanest output from the exhaust. It is only used under light load and throttle driving conditions. Should be in closed loop on a standard RB up to 0 Vacuum. Modified engines it may be different.

Yeah, the extra air flow from the larger turbo will be putting you off the standard map points in the ecu. They just map the higher load points with rich fuel and little timing, because this is a great boost/power cut. Get a powerfc asap, and you will get all your power and more back! The ecu is deff the problem in your case! If you can turn the boost down it will help, but if its already at the wastegate spring pressure, you won't be able to do much.

The PowerFC ecu, should be done well before a cam upgrade or at the same time atleast. No point of cams with the standard ecu, as the ecu is the biggest bottleneck in the system.

double post!

Have you changed your diff ratio yet cubes? You really need 3.7 or 3.9:1 on these big torque monsters! I say 3.7:1 is ideal. Sorry about the thread hijack

That just goes to prove how far out your base map figures actually are. If the mapping was near correct (as it should be tuned) even when the closed loop is turned on the economy would only improve slightly. Closed loop only allows adjustment either side of the base map figure by a few percent. So if the economy still doesn't improve, you will need to get all the light load map points tuned closer to stoich 14.7:1 so the closed loop feature can trim it to approx 14.7:1.

haha, hell yeah. dog box all the way!

sex on wheels this skyline http://www.toprpm.com/videos/HKS_R32_GTR.wmv have a listen!

The head flows so well from factory, why waste money on porting it, for minimal gains. Just get it all built to standard spec and spend the $ on a set of cams for a worthwhile performance increase.

Just get it welded up. You have to get the front water gallery welded to add some extra material so it seals properly on the block anyway. Then get it surfaced/milled flat, for perfect seal.

A few questions Whats mods is the chip tuned for at the moment? Were you using it, what mods? Ping on local fuel, typical rich as fark jap maps?

OMG? That had to do some serious damage.

He hit the nail on the head for sure. Either block the PCV or just don't run a catch can. They are only rice on 90% of motors.

If you get lucky it may be the gasket only, not ringlands?

If its R33 it must be Series 1 ecu, because my series 2 unit has different part no, and a little different internally.

Is it possible to change the font and size and maybe colour scheme? This default layout is a real pita and extremely difficult to see and follow. With other boards i can usually choose an alternative scheme down the bottom of the board home page, but i can't see an option on this board? Help is appreciated.

lol, my thoughts as well....

Definitely a waste of, one nice car.

Was just thinking the PowerFC wouldn't be an option really either as you have an Auto and will lose the factory smooth shifts if you went that way. Get a SAFC and maybe wait and see what these new Greedy Emanages are like when they become a little more popular.