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Everything posted by RB30-POWER
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Closed loop lambda control
RB30-POWER replied to JCMarshall_Law's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
SAFC is usually only used to lean out the open loop high load/boost areas. This is where you make your power gains, especially with the Nissan ECU's that run way rich under load. If you change the AFM voltage in closed loop with the SAFC, the ecu will re-adjust the mixtures to 14.7:1. However the timing would have still changed because you changed the AFM voltage to the ecu with the SAFC. -
If you replace the O2 sensor just make sure the Microtech has closed loop turned on, or else it won't work obviously.
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lets have a proper "this is my car pic" post
RB30-POWER replied to doxximus's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I thought i was over skylines until i just seen that R34. That is sex! Very tasteful mods. Nice to see big brakes as part of the package as well. If i owned it i probally wouldn't want to drive it anywhere near a road. -
Closed loop lambda control
RB30-POWER replied to JCMarshall_Law's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
You should make those load points closed loop enabled as well. If the factory ecu can run with stoich mixtures anything under 0 manifold vacuum the powerfc should as well. Or alternatively, disable closed loop altogether and tune light load to leaner then stoich to pick up even more economy where possible. -
Dark Blue R31 In Fullboost Dyno Video
RB30-POWER replied to fredly's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yeah camshafts.... You said you rev it to 7900rpm, the stock cams still make power up there? -
Dark Blue R31 In Fullboost Dyno Video
RB30-POWER replied to fredly's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
stock bump sticks still? -
What ignition advance do you run?
RB30-POWER replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Which brings us to GTR exhaust valves.... Sodium filled, YUM -
450 at the fly or at the treads?
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I love how the picture of the 31 is inverted. Reminds me of a toymota engine Manifolds reversed and all...
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Closed loop lambda control
RB30-POWER replied to JCMarshall_Law's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
The tuning on the factory ecu has the car in closed loop with anything below atmospheric pressure in the manifold. i.e, it doesnt go out of closed loop and into open loop until you hit 0 vacuum or any positive pressure above that. The only reason it would not be in closed loop under those conditions is if the sensor was stuffed or the engine had just been started. (It takes a few minuted for the O2 sensor to warm up) They are pretty good, the design of the combustion chamber with good squish zones allow them to run closed loop/stoich ratios even under low manifold pressure. Alot of older cars will go into open loop when the manifold is still under vacuum. I hope that all makes sense. -
Did you unwrap the black tape and plastic, because it isn't exposed, it all wrapped up and could be hidden in that respect.
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Just make sure when you connect the negative lead to the donor car which should generally happen last you connect it to the engine block or other chasis earth point. If you connect it to the battery directly it can cause a spark, and because the batteries give off Hydrogen Gas it can explode. This does happen, read/seen numerous cases of it happening and the results are nasty.
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If you use the correct jump start prodecure its highly unlikely that you will cause any damage to the car or yourself. However, connect them up wrong and look out!
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Its a factory plug, all RB25 cars have them. Maybe its for the Auto models, do the auto have the transmission control built into the ecu or is it an external unit?
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Try and buy the coil harness off a Series 1 RB25 car from these forums and get an ignitor module to from the Series 1 (obviously). Im not sure if the Series 1 loom will plug straight into the socket when you unplug the Series 2 coil loom. (If it does it should be a straight swap) At worst, the mechanic would have to either fit the correct socket or just wire the coil loom straight to the engine loom. All the pinouts on the ecu's are the same, the ignitor module just has the transistor in that instead of being intergrated into the coils. If you got the loom and ignitor any auto electrician should be able to do it. If you go look at the back of the head you will see the coil loom plugs straight into the main harness, and you will get what i mean.
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It not really blown out, it just either doesn't spark properly or spark at all. It because pressurised air in the chamber creates a higher resistance for the spark to jump to the electrode from the tip and the plug needs more energy to make a spark, under those higher cylinder pressures. Pressurised air is not a good conductor obviously.
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Your all a little confused. With NGK plugs, the higher the number the colder the plug rating is. What this means is the plug can transfer more heat away from the plug the colder the plug is. (higher number) What happens when you fit colder plugs such as 7, 8, 9 etc etc, in a street driven vehicle is under low load/idle the cylinder temperature isn't hot enough to burn the carbon off the plug tips. And after a while the car will miss because of the fouling that occurs from the carbon on the plug tips/electrodes. These plugs are great when you are under constant boost at a race track for instance as they remove the extra heat from the sustained high power output from the motor and removing this heat prevents the plug from getting hot and causing pre-ignition from glowing spark plug tips/electrodes. They do say go one heat range lower when making an extra 100hp more than factory. While most people will say im making an extra 100hp than factory or even more power, the point is, you don't need the colder rated plug unless you are going to sustain the higher output for some time. i.e. race track, drags etc. You only ever give short bursts on the street. While NGK recommend a heat rating of "5" for some of the RB20/25, you should run a "6". You will get away with the 6 as the climate is alot warmer here than Japan, where the "5" rating is specified. NGK get the recommended rating from the skyline manual. Which is really only applicable in JAPAN. If you look at any locally delivered car in Aus that is turbocharged, most run a "6" heat rating. Most NA run a "5" rating. Of course there are exceptions, as i said. If you run "6" and have trouble it won't be related to the heat rating of the plug, thats for sure.
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You can't use a S1 ignitor and coil loom? Beats buying new coils.
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These ecu's are big almost everywhere else in the world. Especially with the wrx and evo guys. Go read some of the forums from other places in the world and you wont get too far before seeing AEM. They seem to be very popular, i guess having all the power of top of the line aftermarket systems in a plug and play style unit makes it popular. Especially when it has knock sensing built in that is user definable. This is a great feature for true street cars.
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What ignition advance do you run?
RB30-POWER replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I take it your running an NA bottom end? FJ20E? What comp ratio does the FJ20ET run from factory? With these older motors and their combustion chamber design, its always difficult to make lots of outright power especially with higher compression ratios than standard. My guess would be if you dropped the comp ratio, down to 7.8:1 or therabouts you could make significantly more power on pump fuel. However the off boost drivability would suffer a bit. I don't really know for sure if lowering the comp ratio will allow you to run that much extra timing to gain big results. I would be fairly sure you could make a fair bit more power by running more boost, however this doesn't really help your timing issue, which i think you want more off. I guess what im trying to say is that if you lower the comp ratio you would be able to make more power with extra boost rather than timing alone, however, more timing would be better for the motor and im sure their would be significant response and torque gains with the addition of extra timing rather than boost. I can say for a fact that alot of the calaisturbo guys with VL's that run GT35/40 and such with turbo bottom ends 7.8:1, can usually only run around 10- 15deg at full song on pump fuel at up to 20psi. Once again this is due to the design of the 2 valve per cylinder head which is quite old now and doesn't have great "squish" areas. Another thing i may add, is getting the correct bump sticks (cam) for your motor can have a fairly big impact on the timing you can run. Especially when your talking big boost on pump fuel. Either way, i think your got preety good power from your setup, so if your happy with it i would be weary about pursuing other mods just to get that little extra bit from it, which will cost big $ and give average results, for the $ spent. -
What ignition advance do you run?
RB30-POWER replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
11deg isn't much timing at all. But i suppose when you have big turbo's and pump fuel, you have to compromise somewhere. -
Various Parts for Sale- R33
RB30-POWER replied to MNImports's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
How many PowerFC are available? Have any in the country ready for dispatch at the moment for 33gtst s2? -
Have you checked the fault codes on the ecu at all?
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R32 running lean ???replaced fuel pump still running lean
RB30-POWER replied to turbohectics's topic in General Maintenance
Also had another thought, i forgot to post earlier. Is the pump getting full battery voltage under load. Could be a faulty FPCM. (Fuel pump control module) The ECU gets the FPCM to drop voltage to the pump under idle for quiter operation, maybe it isn't switching off idle to the higher voltage. Check the voltage at the pump. Also does the aftermarket pump require bigger guage cable for the higher current that most larger than stock pumps can draw? Give some more details of your setup and testing results, im sure someone can help. -
R32 running lean ???replaced fuel pump still running lean
RB30-POWER replied to turbohectics's topic in General Maintenance
Fuel pressure regulator is ok?